You may use separate 15-0-15 50VA transformers. AnTek has affordable magnetically shielded ones. Like the AS-0515.May I ask for a recommendation please? Im sure I'll have a ton of questions in the near future, but I'll start with one right now. I'm building a two board dcb1 and I'm having trouble sourcing the transformer. I've read that it should be 100va 15v-0-15v x2. I'm having trouble finding that spec. Should I use two transformers, or just the one? Any help would be appreciated, thanks! I also don't mind spending for quality
Hey everyone!
After a long time, i finally found some time to finish my DCB1 and share some pictures here. It took me so long as i ordered a bunch of new resistors and did quite a lot of testing. As often mentioned in this thread, heat plays quite a big role for hotroding the amp so thats why I also want to share my experiences for future builds:
1.) Do the hotroding step by step by decreasing the resistor and make some temperature measurements INSIDE the case you are going to use. It makes no sense if all the stuff gets just warm as the hot air can get away but creates an melting furnace afterwards...
2.) already mentioned quite often: if you go down to such a small value use a parallel wiring (3-4 resistors maybe?).
3.) If you want to use just one (like i did, the caddock MP930) then either buy a big one that can handle the heat or use a sink
4.) Finally something i had to experience: check if the sinks are mounted strong enough... After the first test everything looked fine and i wanted to do some final measurements until I took a closer look on my resistor...
The screw got loosen so the heat was not transported correctly... After buying new resistors I realized that due to the broken resistor also one of the leds blew up...
Anyway, I finally finished my DCB1 and i love it!!!
After a long time, i finally found some time to finish my DCB1 and share some pictures here. It took me so long as i ordered a bunch of new resistors and did quite a lot of testing. As often mentioned in this thread, heat plays quite a big role for hotroding the amp so thats why I also want to share my experiences for future builds:
1.) Do the hotroding step by step by decreasing the resistor and make some temperature measurements INSIDE the case you are going to use. It makes no sense if all the stuff gets just warm as the hot air can get away but creates an melting furnace afterwards...
2.) already mentioned quite often: if you go down to such a small value use a parallel wiring (3-4 resistors maybe?).
3.) If you want to use just one (like i did, the caddock MP930) then either buy a big one that can handle the heat or use a sink
4.) Finally something i had to experience: check if the sinks are mounted strong enough...
After the first test everything looked fine and i wanted to do some final measurements until I took a closer look on my resistor...
The screw got loosen so the heat was not transported correctly... After buying new resistors I realized that due to the broken resistor also one of the leds blew up...
Anyway, I finally finished my DCB1 and i love it!!!
Quite an eventful but well done DCB1 in the end. Congratulations.
What comprises the rest of the system it plays in?
For how much hot-rod current you finally opted in that box? What is the volume pot and what is those control knobs diameter by the way?
Same Questions here, oh and is that a soft start you are using?
R.
The resistor that blew up was a 2.5R Caddock, reduced to 3R in the end. (it worked with the 2.5 but it was still really hot, and i do not want to get into troubles during summer ...)
Vref is at 1619mA and 1685mV resulting in 539mA and 561mA.
The offset lies at 1.1 and 0.1mV (what i am really happy about!)
Diameter of the knobs is 30mm and yes, thats a softstart and DC-filter circuit: http://http://www.diy-audio-shop.de/produkt/dc-filter-mit-softstart/
For the moment I use an SymAsym as poweramp and the new M-DAC+ from Audiolab as input. The speaker is built by my own (its an Elip2 from http://www.lautsprecherbau.de)
Next step: F5!!
...) Vref is at 1619mA and 1685mV resulting in 539mA and 561mA.
The offset lies at 1.1 and 0.1mV (what i am really happy about!)
Diameter of the knobs is 30mm and yes, thats a softstart and DC-filter circuit
: http://http://www.diy-audio-shop.de/produkt/dc-filter-mit-softstart/For the moment I use an SymAsym as poweramp and the new M-DAC+ from Audiolab as input. The speaker is built by my own (its an Elip2 from http://www.lautsprecherbau.de)
Next step: F5!!
what do you mean? I think the speakers are quite nice for the moment, but want to buy/build other ones maybe in the future. So i should consider different volume pots for different speakers?L have read about the aleph J, but isn't it build for more heavy loads from 8-16 Ohm? i have to admit i wasn't able to hear the F5 as well, so I can't really say which one i prefer
Also there is this new F5 Turbo?Question regarding the matching b170's, on a two board balanced build. The two quads I have are measured at 8.10, and 8.86. Does it matter that the quads are off? Should I look to get 8 that match, or at least measure closer? I made sure that the components on each channel measured as close as possible. Probably not necessary, but why not
Thx
-r
Thx
-r
Question regarding the matching b170's, on a two board balanced build. The two quads I have are measured at 8.10, and 8.86. Does it matter that the quads are off? Should I look to get 8 that match, or at least measure closer? I made sure that the components on each channel measured as close as possible. Probably not necessary, but why not
Thx
-r
Not when within <1mA idss quads like yours. Yfs (transconductance) goes up along idss but not at the same rate, slower. So the two channels may only show very small THD lab test differences, nothing else.
L have read about the aleph J, but isn't it build for more heavy loads from 8-16 Ohm? i have to admit i wasn't able to hear the F5 as well, so I can't really say which one i prefer
Different screws for the sinks even.
No worries, I am exaggerating. If the music sounds tonally balanced for the system as configured plus the resolution seems good, all is well.
Aleph J is nicer tonally and has more composure in more difficult loads I think. F5 sounds quicker. Its also a matter of system integration deciding on which to pick. I have listened to both but not to the turbo.