Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build

[LucasAdamson]

Does anybody have a spare DCB1 board for sale?

Many thanks
Lucas

 

[knassiri]

I have a question regarding the use of an aluminum case to sink the heat. The case I'm using is approximately 31x41cm and it is in raw unfinished aluminum. Will having the inside and outside of the case painted affect its ability to dissipate the heat? I could leave the bottom panel unpainted if necessary.

 

[Salas]

No, just make the alu contact areas with the back of the Mosfets smooth and don't paint that part. Use insulation pads. How thick is the bottom panel?

 

[RichLund]

Hi Salas

Could you remind me which are the crucial signal path resistors. Is it the 220R's?

I might try some high quality foils there.

I know it's lazy to ask as the info is in the thread somewhere - sorry!

 

[Salas]

Yes the 220R ones. Not crucial, influential.

 

[RichLund]

Sorted mate, cheers

 

[Tea-Bag]

I doubt you'll regret going to foils.

 

[Tea-Bag]

Salas, from the build guide
____
2. MATCHING THE LED STRINGS
Your goal is 9V total for Vref string and 5.4V total for CCS string.
So match your Vref strings by testing your leds with 5-6 mA.

__
Should we be using 10-20ma LED's? I think I've been using 2ma type, or whatever is in blog.

 

[Salas]

Yes, 10-20mA. The Jfets sinking them are achieving 5-6 to 10mA typically.

 

[Tea-Bag]

I checked my orders, mine are all 20ma type, but I guess it was luck.
The BOM also uses 20ma type, so I think things are mostly good. I will try to get the build guide updated with this information.

 

[knassiri]

Thanks Salas, the case bottom is 2.2mm thick.

 

[Salas]

Super.

 

[Marra]

Does anyone know how Caddock USF340's compare to Z foils.

 

[dvb projekt]

To do the 600mA hotrod version with a constant heat dissipation in my case,
i had to find a solution to get the heat from my heatsinks also to the 3mm aluminum bottom of my case.

Here is what i´ve done


I have made three 15mm copper blocks.
These goes under the heatsinks of the shunts and the rectifier diodes.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Here one mounted with "Arctic Silver 5" thermal conductance paste under the shunt sink.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

No the blue goes on top the 10mm spacer and i fix the copper blocks on the bottom of my case.

I think an optimal solution.


​

 

[Malka07]

Really nice idea Oliver I wish i had thought of this before i had installed the fan!!!

Let us know what you think of DCB1 running at 600ma, when its all up and running I think you are gonna be pleasantly supprised

Alon

 

[dvb projekt]

On request two additional photos

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

Here the heatsink block for the rectifier diodes

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

​

 

[Salas]

Looks it will take the high current like a man.

 

[LucasAdamson]

Wouldn't it dissipate heat better if you cut the sinks in half and bolted them to the mosfets without the insulating sheets?

 

[dvb projekt]

Wouldn't it dissipate heat better if you cut the sinks in half and bolted them to the mosfets without the insulating sheets?

I use this Kapton insulator washer with an extreme low thermal resistance.
So there is no advantage to cut the sink.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

 

[qusp]

nice work, I have also been doing the same thing for my ackodac/D1, I get my copper from A&E metals and am building a copper/al wall down the middle of my dac and covering the floor except difference for me is I am bolting the devices directly to the copper, which is then bolted through to the alloy, copper to breathe the heat in, alloy to breathe it out