Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build

diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
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I started my build of the Hypnotize and wanted to put up the WIP picture for critique, corrections of errors I may have made as a noob, and to get some clarifications from the knowledgeable and helpful folks here.

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Full-sized picture available here too.

I have followed mainly wushuliu's excellent tutorial. I hope I have got it right thus far.

Pending components to populate:
1) IRFP240/9240
2) MUR820
3) MUR120
4) jumper J3
5) 4700 uF caps
6) hot rod resistors
7) In/Out terminal blocks

Kindly help with some questions I have:

1) in the kit (from Teabag), there was no MUR820, but I received four F06U20S. Is this interchangeable with the MUR820s?

2) the AC input terminal block is marked "03 02 01". What voltage do these numbers/positions correspond to? Is it 15V-0-15V? I plan to use a 130 VA toroidal (15V-0-15V, IIRC. Already purchased).

3) at the bottom right of the board there is marked "2 x 600" below which there is "NOTE". What do these two markings mean?

4) There is a Vout marked "10 20 30". Do I need to wire this to anything? Or is it there to be tapped for powering some external device? Is this Vout fixed or can be varied to suit a range of voltages?

5) I fully intend to hot rod it to 600 mA. I have received 5 and 10 Ohms Dales as part of the kit. I understand I need to parallel these two to get 600 mA-ish current. However, I want to start at 60 mA then go up slowly, then onto 200mA before full bore 600mA. What are the correct resistors for 60mA and 200mA (with wattage ratings, please)? I have a pair of fairly hefty heatsinks which I bought for a stillborn MyRef Rev C amp project. I am hoping this heatsink will suffice for 600mA.

6) I keep reading on this thread that the voltage across the LED banks must be 9.xx Volts. What is the significance of this value? Do they need to be symmetric, or nearly so? Across what points does one measure this voltage? How does this translate to the final mA? FWIW, I have read through the first 28 pages of this thread:) but there are nearly 120 more to go through. A Herculean task, if there's one:)

7) What is the correct procedure for checking the offset DC voltages after completing the build?

I have some more doubts, but I guess that can come as I make some more progress.

Thanks in advance.
 
diyAudio Chief Moderator
Joined 2002
Paid Member
1. Ultrafast + Soft Recovery Fairchild alternatives. Looking very good.

2. 01 02 03 correspond to 15-0-15 VAC terminal points.

3. When using 12V relay just put a jumper across one of those two resistor marks. Any of the two. (Resistors there only for the now rare 5V relay users that they were common in the past).

4. Those points are connected to the +10 0 -10V DC regulated output rails (fixed). Most users use them only to measure the rails bcs they avoid to drive further subsystems in case of subjective interactions, or just not to unbalance the symmetrical consumption of the main circuit regulators. But some others use them to feed some chip regulator for a subsystem. Don't exceed 50% current draw of any CCS decided setting.

5. 47//47 Ohm, 10 Ohm, as printed on the board itself. In 0.6A level the dissipation will be 12W constant per rail MOSFET pair. Also better use a small sink on the LM7812.

6. DCB1 Hypnotize tends to well symmetrical rails. 9.5-10.5V range results very close for +/-are usual. The significance is subjective, I found the system preferable at 10V or close when I originally developed it. It does not relate to current. Points to probe for DVM are the mentioned 10 20 30 (20=GND). You need read no more than we discussed now for technical reasons, just for fun.

7. You set DCmV range on the meter and you measure between R GND and L GND on the audio output connector points.

Good luck.