Salas hotrodded blue DCB1 build

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I don't seem to find brand to make much of a difference for CCS resistor as far as brightness.
But lower is better. I use 2R right now, and will go to 1.5R when I get an opportunity to re-box DCB1 in the fancy case you recommended ;)

Each iteration causes better focus in soundstage going from 10R to 3.3R to 2R.
 
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I found the signal path to influence brightness.
Kiwame Carbons, too rough, maybe lush sounding.
Takman carbon films were really bright in my system.
PRP's seem to be the closest to all around best, only bettered by TX2575, and only in the 220R position.
I've used the MK132 Caddocks before in 220K and 1M positions, they do well there, adding a slight wooden tone to the mix, if desired. But all these resistors are expensive and results may vary. I would like to try the Takman Rey sometime, heard good reports on them - but not easy to get in US.
 
Changing the sealing to copper.

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At last I seal it with Shellac. I loudspeakers this is magic.
 
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At last I seal it with Shellac. I loudspeakers this is magic.

I did something similar, but used a routed piece of wenge wood as a case, and filled the remaining hole with beeswax.
Measurements remained absolutely the same, including Q, even after a few months

And improvement was rather big. I never have used it with big ones, just with 10nF ones on my Shigaclone for now, but I will definitely try it on my DCB1 caps as well at some point. For now my chassis needs redesign and I do not have the space in it.