My DCB1 is sounding excellent
I have my build using a pair of VU meters... This is a VU Meter kit. I'm looking for help on options on where to get a stronger 12V DC
I tried to power the PCB of the VU meters by using this source of 12V. I don't think the amp draw is enough... didn't light or get the VU meters working. I tried a good 12V battery and these VUs work good and light.
Not enough from this spot. This spot I get 12V on my DMM but suspect the amp is too low:
FROM VU Meter vendor:
Driver Board specifications:
High Quality VU METER driver board Circuit Board Stereo module dynamic press
dynamic press device based :example input 1V output 1V,Input 4V Output 2V,Input 9V Out 3V...
Input sensitivity -15dB
Power 12VDC 0.12A
Power out for backlight 10-15VDC 50mA
PCB :52*63mm
commend: VU meter 500UA
VU meters and PCB photo:
My DCB1 with the VU Meters...
I may do a 12V Walwart as a last resort... for the VU meters...
I have my build using a pair of VU meters... This is a VU Meter kit. I'm looking for help on options on where to get a stronger 12V DC
I tried to power the PCB of the VU meters by using this source of 12V. I don't think the amp draw is enough... didn't light or get the VU meters working. I tried a good 12V battery and these VUs work good and light.
Not enough from this spot. This spot I get 12V on my DMM but suspect the amp is too low:
FROM VU Meter vendor:
Driver Board specifications:
High Quality VU METER driver board Circuit Board Stereo module dynamic press
dynamic press device based :example input 1V output 1V,Input 4V Output 2V,Input 9V Out 3V...
Input sensitivity -15dB
Power 12VDC 0.12A
Power out for backlight 10-15VDC 50mA
PCB :52*63mm
commend: VU meter 500UA
VU meters and PCB photo:
My DCB1 with the VU Meters...
I may do a 12V Walwart as a last resort... for the VU meters...
Hmmm that 12V line passes through the 7812 that already has a burden. It could have tripped its thermal protection if not on sink. Its an additional 0.17A dropping from about 20V down to 12V giving heat. I would not associate a dynamic circuit to the DCB1 rail for avoiding possible modulations anyway. Better assign some own basic PSU to the meters and their circuitry. Something linear not switching type, so to avoid noise emissions.
I had a sink on it... I am running a small illuminated switch on this spot and the heat sink on the 7812 is cool to the touch when powering the LED on the illuminated switch.
I put in an order for one of these the other day... I should have held off... Switching power supply.
CFM1502S | Cincon CFM1502S | USA Warehouse
Given this power supply won't be connected to the DCB1 is it possible I could keep the switching noise out? Is the noise possible just given it is in the same chassis?
I put in an order for one of these the other day... I should have held off... Switching power supply.
CFM1502S | Cincon CFM1502S | USA Warehouse
Given this power supply won't be connected to the DCB1 is it possible I could keep the switching noise out? Is the noise possible just given it is in the same chassis?
Weird why you did not get any voltage when it was cool. Did the relay still click? Did you actually measure the voltage points?
But I would not blend any heavy drawing dynamic circuits with the DCB1 supply for isolation reasons anyway as I wrote.
The switcher you ordered looks elaborate, maybe well filtered. Just listen good before you apply it, and if no worsening becomes apparent after its use, keep it by all means.
But I would not blend any heavy drawing dynamic circuits with the DCB1 supply for isolation reasons anyway as I wrote.
The switcher you ordered looks elaborate, maybe well filtered. Just listen good before you apply it, and if no worsening becomes apparent after its use, keep it by all means.
I did get voltage when it was cool... I ran a pair of 22ga leads off of the LED spot
I got 11.9Volt DC off of the leads. I ran an LED on the end of the leads first and the LED was good. I then tried my LED lit power switch and that worked great. I then tried just the PCB for the VU meters and got nothing on the VUs... No light and no movement. I tried reversing the (+) (-) on the VU meter PCB as the PCB for the VUs does not have any (+) (-) specified... Nothing. I didn't leave this connected for long worried the 7812 may be stressing... I didn't leave it on long at all to build up heat.
I'll try that power supply and keep it on the far other end of the chassis... maybe run an added capacitor inline to the VU PCB
I got 11.9Volt DC off of the leads. I ran an LED on the end of the leads first and the LED was good. I then tried my LED lit power switch and that worked great. I then tried just the PCB for the VU meters and got nothing on the VUs... No light and no movement. I tried reversing the (+) (-) on the VU meter PCB as the PCB for the VUs does not have any (+) (-) specified... Nothing. I didn't leave this connected for long worried the 7812 may be stressing... I didn't leave it on long at all to build up heat.
I'll try that power supply and keep it on the far other end of the chassis... maybe run an added capacitor inline to the VU PCB
EBAY is where I got mine... I hope posting an e-bay link is ok. I got this one - Aluminium Chassis for Audio DIY Pre Amp DAC Etc | eBay
I then had a local metal shop drill out the holes. The chassis is pretty good. The shipping was a near deal breaker. This is a bit smaller then a typical preamp chassis. A bit tight top to bottom. The 10,000 power supply caps on the DCB1 were tight with the pcb standoffs
Ebay has a lot of options but again, shipping is spendy
PS - EBAY search on "PREamp chassis"
I then had a local metal shop drill out the holes. The chassis is pretty good. The shipping was a near deal breaker. This is a bit smaller then a typical preamp chassis. A bit tight top to bottom. The 10,000 power supply caps on the DCB1 were tight with the pcb standoffs
Ebay has a lot of options but again, shipping is spendy
PS - EBAY search on "PREamp chassis"
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DONE! And loving it!
My DCB1 is now really done! Sounds excellent! Listening to it now as I write this.
I ended up getting a 12v DC power supply for the VU meeter driver board that worked out great. I tested the sound of the DCB1 with my home built by me 99dB Wayne Parham 4PI speakers ran by 75 monoblocks so any noise is noticed.
I ran without the VU meeters for a while when I was waiting for the power supply of the VU meeters, Thene I tested the VU meeters ran by a 12V 7amp battery and then the AC/DC 12 power supply and all sounded the same and great! When the unit is connected to a source that is off it is dead silent and then when on it is vivid and clear... Club music Bass is strong and clean. The 12v power supply is far enough from the DCB1 I guess... And the VU PCB must not get any noise back upstream to the audio outs. My main priority was to get some solid sound and the VUs were more just for look and fun.. Not priority. Nice to have then and not have any sort of sound drawback that I can hear.
Thanks for everything. Good learning experience for me and the DCB1 sounds great and looks pretty cool and retro with the VUs.
PS - I have on the back PCB some 100R texas comp resistors for splitting the outs.. I had to split each output to 3... 2 with the 100 R resistors for the ouput RCA and then the 3rd output to the VU meeter driver PCB.
Wiring is a bit sloppy... OK, real sloppy. Using 20GA .999 sliver dead soft with teflon insulation
R CORE on the power supply. R Core from DIYGene 100VA Model
My DCB1 is now really done! Sounds excellent! Listening to it now as I write this.
I ended up getting a 12v DC power supply for the VU meeter driver board that worked out great. I tested the sound of the DCB1 with my home built by me 99dB Wayne Parham 4PI speakers ran by 75 monoblocks so any noise is noticed.
I ran without the VU meeters for a while when I was waiting for the power supply of the VU meeters, Thene I tested the VU meeters ran by a 12V 7amp battery and then the AC/DC 12 power supply and all sounded the same and great! When the unit is connected to a source that is off it is dead silent and then when on it is vivid and clear... Club music Bass is strong and clean. The 12v power supply is far enough from the DCB1 I guess... And the VU PCB must not get any noise back upstream to the audio outs. My main priority was to get some solid sound and the VUs were more just for look and fun.. Not priority. Nice to have then and not have any sort of sound drawback that I can hear.
Thanks for everything. Good learning experience for me and the DCB1 sounds great and looks pretty cool and retro with the VUs.
PS - I have on the back PCB some 100R texas comp resistors for splitting the outs.. I had to split each output to 3... 2 with the 100 R resistors for the ouput RCA and then the 3rd output to the VU meeter driver PCB.
Wiring is a bit sloppy... OK, real sloppy. Using 20GA .999 sliver dead soft with teflon insulation
R CORE on the power supply. R Core from DIYGene 100VA Model
The dimension is :
exterior :- 320mm x 310mm x 70mm (width x depth x height)
interior :- 300mm x 293mm x 62mm (width x depth x height)
Net weight:- around 2.75kg
Aluminium Chassis for Audio DIY Pre Amp DAC Etc | eBay
exterior :- 320mm x 310mm x 70mm (width x depth x height)
interior :- 300mm x 293mm x 62mm (width x depth x height)
Net weight:- around 2.75kg
Aluminium Chassis for Audio DIY Pre Amp DAC Etc | eBay