I get a bunch of these newer rockfords with replaced 44h11's & 45h11's. Most techs stop here when the newer bd class amps have no output.
So, I'm looking at a p1000bd right now so I can giv eyou the correct numbers off the board..
Q2000 - 44h11 - you need to see ~-6 volts here. (red probe on emitter, black probe on -12 volt amp power input) D2001 is a zener that feeds the base for Q2000.
Q2001 - 45h11 - you need to see ~6 volts here (red on emitter, black on negative amp input) , D2002 is a zener that feeds the base of Q2001
Q2010 & Q2012 are in parallel. You need 12volts on the emitters. This passes through R2035 on it's way to the 5110 driver chips. If either 5110 shorts, you'll know it if there is a big voltage drop across R2035. D2009 is a zener hooked to the bases of Q2010 & Q2012.
At idle you should see signals on the input and output of the 5110 driver ic's.
If all these voltages look right, and there isn't a big drop across r1029 & R1030 (the resistors after the ln337 & 317 regs) it's time to make sure you have an input signal the bd driver board and/or driverboard issues. If there is a big voltage drop across r1029/1030 you probably have a tl072 shorted somewhere.
Yes, i've powered these up with the bd board out.
Perry is right, most of the time it's one or more of the 44/45h11's that are bad or unsoldered. So far *every* p1000-1bd I've had on the bench (probably a dozen or so) has had an issue here, or the common blown power supply. The T1500-1bd's are the ones that run the 6172's on the driver board fairly hot, the T1500-1bdcp's are a whole different beast too
If you don't have around 22-24volts on the collectors of Q2010 & Q2012, check the voltage on the top of the big blue power resistor. sometimes the trace between this power big blue power resistor and the collectors of q2010/2012 blows and you'll have to jump it.
So, I'm looking at a p1000bd right now so I can giv eyou the correct numbers off the board..
Q2000 - 44h11 - you need to see ~-6 volts here. (red probe on emitter, black probe on -12 volt amp power input) D2001 is a zener that feeds the base for Q2000.
Q2001 - 45h11 - you need to see ~6 volts here (red on emitter, black on negative amp input) , D2002 is a zener that feeds the base of Q2001
Q2010 & Q2012 are in parallel. You need 12volts on the emitters. This passes through R2035 on it's way to the 5110 driver chips. If either 5110 shorts, you'll know it if there is a big voltage drop across R2035. D2009 is a zener hooked to the bases of Q2010 & Q2012.
At idle you should see signals on the input and output of the 5110 driver ic's.
If all these voltages look right, and there isn't a big drop across r1029 & R1030 (the resistors after the ln337 & 317 regs) it's time to make sure you have an input signal the bd driver board and/or driverboard issues. If there is a big voltage drop across r1029/1030 you probably have a tl072 shorted somewhere.
Yes, i've powered these up with the bd board out.
Perry is right, most of the time it's one or more of the 44/45h11's that are bad or unsoldered. So far *every* p1000-1bd I've had on the bench (probably a dozen or so) has had an issue here, or the common blown power supply. The T1500-1bd's are the ones that run the 6172's on the driver board fairly hot, the T1500-1bdcp's are a whole different beast too
If you don't have around 22-24volts on the collectors of Q2010 & Q2012, check the voltage on the top of the big blue power resistor. sometimes the trace between this power big blue power resistor and the collectors of q2010/2012 blows and you'll have to jump it.
Last edited:
Ok getting back to this amp.
This amp has an attempted repair already.
Question transistors dont match locations you posted.
In your post:
Q2000=44H11
Q2001=45H11
In this amp:
Q2000=45H11
Q2001=44H11
I am assuming both Q2010 and Q2012 are 44H11's?
I want to make sure these have been put in the right spots before testing the pins you requested.
Big blue resistor is so hot it smokes.
R2035 is so hot it smokes and has 2vdc on one side and 8vdc on the other side.
R1029 and R1030 only have a 1v difference from side to side.
This amp has an attempted repair already.
Question transistors dont match locations you posted.
In your post:
Q2000=44H11
Q2001=45H11
In this amp:
Q2000=45H11
Q2001=44H11
I am assuming both Q2010 and Q2012 are 44H11's?
I want to make sure these have been put in the right spots before testing the pins you requested.
Big blue resistor is so hot it smokes.
R2035 is so hot it smokes and has 2vdc on one side and 8vdc on the other side.
R1029 and R1030 only have a 1v difference from side to side.
Q2000=45H11
Q2001=44H11
The above is correct (see attached pic..) In my haste I had that backwards..
If u2002 is hot that's why the big blue resistor is getting hot (bigtime draw).
BTW - notice R2013 in the pic I sent.... So damn hot it burnt itsself from the board! (this is the latest P1000 on my bench)
Q2001=44H11
The above is correct (see attached pic..) In my haste I had that backwards..
If u2002 is hot that's why the big blue resistor is getting hot (bigtime draw).
BTW - notice R2013 in the pic I sent.... So damn hot it burnt itsself from the board! (this is the latest P1000 on my bench)
Attachments
Ok I ordered the 44's/45's and 5110's from Mouser. Figured I might as well have some stock for future use.
I dont think the 44/45 are bad in this amp, I think they have been replaced. I think its the LM5110.
I will do some of the other testing blazer40 mentioned and post results later.
Thanks guys.
I dont think the 44/45 are bad in this amp, I think they have been replaced. I think its the LM5110.
I will do some of the other testing blazer40 mentioned and post results later.
Thanks guys.
Parts came in this morning, and I finally got around to changing out the LM5110.
The amp has output and works great.
I do notice a slight chirping noise inside the amp when it hits real hard. Wondering if this is normal?
I have heard this noise inside other class D amps as well, just wondering.
The amp has output and works great.
I do notice a slight chirping noise inside the amp when it hits real hard. Wondering if this is normal?
I have heard this noise inside other class D amps as well, just wondering.
It sounds like its coming from around the inductor area. Something in the output stage. Its not bad, I can hear it. With the lid on in the car with the bass booming you would never hear it.
It does not seem to be an issue with the amps operation.
I dont trust the solder connection on the 30 ohm 5 watt resistor. Going to order a new one and replace it before listing it for sale.
What have you been gettin out of these, not sure what they are worth?
Thinking about $150 for a quick sale.
It does not seem to be an issue with the amps operation.
I dont trust the solder connection on the 30 ohm 5 watt resistor. Going to order a new one and replace it before listing it for sale.
What have you been gettin out of these, not sure what they are worth?
Thinking about $150 for a quick sale.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.