you know - I have all of Fountek product on hand. even NeoCd 3,5H and Cd 1.0. I can compare.
look - which fr. Cd3.0 could work from? realy, it's' about 3khz, will be better 5kHz.
3 way from my picture - I hope, will working from 7kHz.
does your 7" SS Revelator will be able to work to 5kHz, or at least 3khz? I'm not sure, but ... let's try.
look - which fr. Cd3.0 could work from? realy, it's' about 3khz, will be better 5kHz.
3 way from my picture - I hope, will working from 7kHz.
does your 7" SS Revelator will be able to work to 5kHz, or at least 3khz? I'm not sure, but ... let's try.
easy way do do it - to choose ribbons for your set - compare it alife. you can see 4 model Fountek on the my picture, connected via switch. and believe me - Cd2 - the best for 2 way and even for 3 way system. Cd3 better way to use from 7kHz and even more - just for environment, Russian say - for air 
routing continues...this gives you a rough idea how its gonna look like....still 38pcs to cut, and i already broke the routing bit
more to come...........
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
more to come...........
It looks like you are doing well. Not much recess for the driver though? Are you going to cut the centre our of the parts later on to create the internal of the cabinet?
I assume you were using a router bit with a trace bearing to copy the first 'slice' of the cabinet you made? The bearings can wear out quickly if you don't oil them now and again (same with the cutter). Also a quality router bit is a very good investment, even if they are £20-30 or more. Trend is very good.
I assume you were using a router bit with a trace bearing to copy the first 'slice' of the cabinet you made? The bearings can wear out quickly if you don't oil them now and again (same with the cutter). Also a quality router bit is a very good investment, even if they are £20-30 or more. Trend is very good.
Tenson said:
Hi tenson....you are right..the router bit needed some oil, i didn't know.This was the first time i've used it.i will know now.the recces is 25 mm, and there is still the front baffle missing, so it will be altogether around 37 mm thick.
the internal is gonna be cutted out later on, it was a little bit rainy today, i only done 12 pcs today. i will post more pics as the work continues...
Yury - i dont think there is a need of damping, the wall thickness is 34mm at thinest, and 47mm at thickestplace.G18 is 7" unit, but the cone is actualy 6", so u right.
As i sad in the future, there will be a sub, probably single 18" in a smallish box, or two 15" in even smaller boxes both using linkwitz transform circuits......so i'm not in need of much low end at this time
the most important thing is gonna be the mid, to get that right......
As i sad in the future, there will be a sub, probably single 18" in a smallish box, or two 15" in even smaller boxes
both using linkwitz transform circuits......so i'm not in need of much low end at this time the most important thing is gonna be the mid, to get that right......
continue....
hey guys!!!
i have done all pcs for the first enclosure...what a work
.....still need to cut the rest, but the wheater isn't my friend i think
i have only a small shed, so i'm still waiting for a little sunshine.
i've read John's blog abut his speakers he is building, here it is:
second from above
he says, that the egg shaped internal profile is the worst ever....so i'm asking you for any suggestions on the internal profile.
Here is the shape:
thanks for any suggestions.
P.S.: the internal volume can be adjusted acording to shape.
hey guys!!!
i have done all pcs for the first enclosure...what a work
.....still need to cut the rest, but the wheater isn't my friend i think i have only a small shed, so i'm still waiting for a little sunshine.
i've read John's blog abut his speakers he is building, here it is:
second from above
he says, that the egg shaped internal profile is the worst ever....so i'm asking you for any suggestions on the internal profile.
Here is the shape:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
thanks for any suggestions.
P.S.: the internal volume can be adjusted acording to shape.
Hey guys !!! work in progres:
dry assembly.... (some parts already glued and screwed together)
internal wiev:
another one:
after the second enclosure is finished they go on CNC machine to cut the fronts to exact sizes, counter bores and side panels......
dry assembly.... (some parts already glued and screwed together)
internal wiev:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
another one:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
after the second enclosure is finished they go on CNC machine to cut the fronts to exact sizes, counter bores and side panels......
barackuda : I'm not sure if your idea of G18rnxp and BG neo3 is good one. I would cross G18 at about 2.2-2.5Khz and neo3 would suffer if crossed lower than 3khz.
ps. have to admit I don't like the sound of G18 at all... I still have one G18 left...can be yours if you want (for center chanell for example)
have anyone heard hivi RT8II? can sb give me any recommedation please? Is it a good TW? as good as neo3 but with better lower output?
ps. have to admit I don't like the sound of G18 at all... I still have one G18 left...can be yours if you want (for center chanell for example)
have anyone heard hivi RT8II? can sb give me any recommedation please? Is it a good TW? as good as neo3 but with better lower output?
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.