Circa 2006 325.2
I bought this amp not working, like everyone I buy. This one had the supply fets blown and by the looks of it one of the outputs was "repaired" as well. I replaced the supply fets and gate resistors. I don't see anything wrong with the outputs, transistors and resistors measure fine.
If I switch power on for a split second I see +-rail voltage along with +-15V supplies. If I keep it on longer it will blow the fuse I have in-line with B+.
Wondering if I should pull the outputs to verify the supply is operational; is there an easier way? I did apply just remote power and seen the outputs from the 494.
cory
I bought this amp not working, like everyone I buy. This one had the supply fets blown and by the looks of it one of the outputs was "repaired" as well. I replaced the supply fets and gate resistors. I don't see anything wrong with the outputs, transistors and resistors measure fine.
If I switch power on for a split second I see +-rail voltage along with +-15V supplies. If I keep it on longer it will blow the fuse I have in-line with B+.
Wondering if I should pull the outputs to verify the supply is operational; is there an easier way? I did apply just remote power and seen the outputs from the 494.
cory
What i do with this type of problem is remove output transistors and feed VAS output back into LTP to close the loop. I can then check for dc offset and bias without blowing output mosfets.
If there is still a fault with outputs removed I start pulling all the transistors and diodes and check them out of circuit. While the transistors are out I check all resistors and check capacitors for shorts.
If there is still a fault with outputs removed I start pulling all the transistors and diodes and check them out of circuit. While the transistors are out I check all resistors and check capacitors for shorts.
It would be R280 and R281, but the problem is J200 was cut from the board. It looked like a solder connection, but it had none.
I need to look more closely at the previous repairs, most of the time that is the issue.
Does measuring across those resistors show signs of leakage?
I need to look more closely at the previous repairs, most of the time that is the issue.
Does measuring across those resistors show signs of leakage?
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