OK fellers,
Thanks for the link to the e-book. I will take a look, as I obviously don't know much.
I've done a drawing of the crossover and the components but I don't know how to post it coz the Add Image box asks me for a URL and it's just a JPG on my laptop. I would happily email it to anyone who knows how to post pics (or just wants to take a look at it without posting it)
This is the link to the speaker specs: Moondog, I am very hurt that you would describe my speakers as "small and cheap" but if it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck...
(why don't my smilies work??)
Mirage : Small Rooms : Nano CC
Spec says frequency response is from 100Hz up, so I guess it is a bass blocker, as you thought. Frankly I'm surprised they can handle as low as 100Hz. But I have this horrible new Denon AVR-1712 with this Audyssey thing. All I know is I have a nasty hole in the low mids that may or may not be crossover related. It might be that for whatever reason these satellites are not getting anything down as low as 100Hz as the sub isn't being fed anything above 100Hz. Different problem though, not this thread I don't think.
If it's a bass blocker as it seems, is that going to change what I might use to replace these 25v caps please? Would Tony's idea of a 220 +15uF cap still work
What are your thoughts on "improving" the other two caps on here please: 15uF 100v Bi-Polar and 8uf Bi-Polar?
Thanks
Thanks for the link to the e-book. I will take a look, as I obviously don't know much.
I've done a drawing of the crossover and the components but I don't know how to post it coz the Add Image box asks me for a URL and it's just a JPG on my laptop. I would happily email it to anyone who knows how to post pics (or just wants to take a look at it without posting it)
This is the link to the speaker specs: Moondog, I am very hurt that you would describe my speakers as "small and cheap" but if it walks like a duck and quacks like a duck...
(why don't my smilies work??)
Mirage : Small Rooms : Nano CC
Spec says frequency response is from 100Hz up, so I guess it is a bass blocker, as you thought. Frankly I'm surprised they can handle as low as 100Hz. But I have this horrible new Denon AVR-1712 with this Audyssey thing. All I know is I have a nasty hole in the low mids that may or may not be crossover related. It might be that for whatever reason these satellites are not getting anything down as low as 100Hz as the sub isn't being fed anything above 100Hz. Different problem though, not this thread I don't think.
If it's a bass blocker as it seems, is that going to change what I might use to replace these 25v caps please? Would Tony's idea of a 220 +15uF cap still work
What are your thoughts on "improving" the other two caps on here please: 15uF 100v Bi-Polar and 8uf Bi-Polar?
Thanks
Hi
What is a motor run type please? How large is large value, coz it seems to have been established I would need very large pockets and a lot of room to put a large value film cap. Neither A nor B apply here
Hey, smilies are back!
OK Cheap does depend on your budget LOL
Small they definitely are 3inch midwoofer 19mm tweeter and XO at 3.5k
Specs say 100 -> +/- 3db
So I expect they are -3dB at 100 and plus 3dB at 300 giving what will sound like a huge hole in the response.
I'm a bloke who thinks anything smaller than 8 inches is a midrange
Small they definitely are 3inch midwoofer 19mm tweeter and XO at 3.5k
Specs say 100 -> +/- 3db
So I expect they are -3dB at 100 and plus 3dB at 300 giving what will sound like a huge hole in the response.
I'm a bloke who thinks anything smaller than 8 inches is a midrange
Yeah Balerit, I agree with you. But that is the "suggested retail" and even I'm not stupid enough to pay it. I paid enough relative to my income though, and I am not going to be posting any 5-star reviews on em, that's for sure.
So, Moondog, I agree with you about the possible source of the hole. It seems I have two choices with this Denon AVR-1712 that I have really come to hate. I have just replaced all my speaker cables with some Blue Jeans stuff I am really happy with, so when I get the center back I could run another Audyssey sweep and hope the new wire gives a better output (to be picked up by this .50-cent "microphone"). Or, there is an option to shut off the psycho-acoustic stuff and manually tweak a 15-band equalizer. That would probably put the low mids back in, but frankly I would prefer to send anything below about 150Hz to the sub. There is supposedly a crossover setting that I might be able to do that, but it seems to keep resetting itself to 100Hz or so. Plus, if I do the manual eq thing, the amp has a hissy fit and won't let me add back any of the limiting or compression. It's like it's thinking "Don't like the way I think great audio sounds? Well, you can just do it all by yourself matey-boy." Rock and a hard place.
Anyone want to see this crossover drawing I did but don't know how to post please?
The deeper I get into this thread, the more I think ripping these crossovers apart is a good thing to do for relatively short money.
Thanks
Phil
Anyone want to see this crossover drawing I did but don't know how to post please?
The deeper I get into this thread, the more I think ripping these crossovers apart is a good thing to do for relatively short money.
Thanks
Phil
Which is why we always ask for photos and drawings
From my reading of the sales blurb it really sounds like a simple first order high pass as in the "HT-in-a-box" LG'/Yamaha/ Sony speakers I keep being gifted to "Improve" and those do tend to be 35 or 50 V rated too
Aha!
Now the drawing should be attached. Hope you can all deal with the astounding complexity of the design
Boys, I have looked at this thing very carefully and it says Bennic 470MFD 25WV.
It seems very clear to me that it says 470. If it were point470 rather than 470, wouldn't it say 0.470MFD (or 0.47 I suppose) on the can? Seems like just plopping a period in front of a number on something so small is asking for trouble.
Thanks a lot
Phil
Now the drawing should be attached. Hope you can all deal with the astounding complexity of the design
Boys, I have looked at this thing very carefully and it says Bennic 470MFD 25WV.
It seems very clear to me that it says 470. If it were point470 rather than 470, wouldn't it say 0.470MFD (or 0.47 I suppose) on the can? Seems like just plopping a period in front of a number on something so small is asking for trouble.
Thanks a lot
Phil
Attachments
Aha!
Now the drawing should be attached. Hope you can all deal with the astounding complexity of the design
Boys, I have looked at this thing very carefully and it says Bennic 470MFD 25WV.
It seems very clear to me that it says 470. If it were point470 rather than 470, wouldn't it say 0.470MFD (or 0.47 I suppose) on the can? Seems like just plopping a period in front of a number on something so small is asking for trouble.
Thanks a lot
Phil
You could go with a Bennic N0N-Polar at 250uF where 235uF is where we are shooting for.
The Madisound Speaker Store
With a 20% tolerance it should work fine.
Also I don't think it needs to be right on the money.
If you can't quit worrying about being off on the Bennic cap you can stack some smaller values together and get it within a couple of uF, but I do not think it is worth it.
The biggest advantage is the Bennic NON-Polar has 100volt rating. Since that is what failed I would go with it the higher volt rating..
The rest of the caps should be replaced with Solen brand Poly 400volt.
They are an excellent cap and are priced much lower then the Audiphile caps.
If you can find another Poly with a 400volt rating for that price go with it.
This is what I suggest for New indcutors
For the woofer
1.1mH 18 AWG Perfect Lay
1.1mH 18 AWG Perfect Layer Inductor 266-828
For the highs
0.1mH 20 AWG Perfect Lay
Jantzen 0.10mH 20 AWG Air Core Inductor 255-020
I would just use a pair of 470uF electrolytics and be done with it. But I'd use more than 25V, and a type that can take a decent amount of ripple current. I use the sanp mount types intended for off-line supply filtering in pro PA cabs and never have a problem with them overheating (which is what dries them out - or in extreme cases, blows them up). If you're worried about better high frequency response (in this case into the midrange), use a type that's meant for switch mode power supply output filtering. That application usually sees lots of current at frequencies above 20K. Neither type is particularly expensive, espacially compared to any film type.
The computer ate my reply.
I HATE that.
Short version, there are 470uF with both 50v and 100v in the polarized section at Parts Express, so I would go with your suggestion.
Electrolytic Capacitors in the Electronic Parts Department at Parts Express | 1378 - 639|1872;641|1919
Somehow I missed that. I must have been looking in Madisound.
What do you think of the Inductors I picked out?
I HATE that.
Short version, there are 470uF with both 50v and 100v in the polarized section at Parts Express, so I would go with your suggestion.
Electrolytic Capacitors in the Electronic Parts Department at Parts Express | 1378 - 639|1872;641|1919
Somehow I missed that. I must have been looking in Madisound.
What do you think of the Inductors I picked out?
Hi
I don't have a problem finding the 250uf 100v Bennic but I also need a 15uf and an 8uf polypropylene to replace the other two on the board. I can find the 250 and the 15 at Parts Express, but no 8uf. They have a lot of 6.8uf if that is close enough?
I'd prefer to source everything from one place, but Digikey's search system is pretty stupid very late at night. Maybe it's me?
The resistors don't have a value in Ohms, but one says 1RJ and the other 0R7J if that means anything to anyone?
I don't know if I have room to replace coils, especially with ones so big. Maybe in the center channel, but certainly not in the L and R Fronts. I don't know if there is any advantage to it; they are pretty expensive, at least at this size.
Thanks
Phil
I don't have a problem finding the 250uf 100v Bennic but I also need a 15uf and an 8uf polypropylene to replace the other two on the board. I can find the 250 and the 15 at Parts Express, but no 8uf. They have a lot of 6.8uf if that is close enough?
I'd prefer to source everything from one place, but Digikey's search system is pretty stupid very late at night. Maybe it's me?
The resistors don't have a value in Ohms, but one says 1RJ and the other 0R7J if that means anything to anyone?
I don't know if I have room to replace coils, especially with ones so big. Maybe in the center channel, but certainly not in the L and R Fronts. I don't know if there is any advantage to it; they are pretty expensive, at least at this size.
Thanks
Phil
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