Well, well, what do you know? it appears that it was simply a question of the mains lead that needed to be re-routed. I had it coming out of the left hand side of my solid plinth. I rerouted it to come out of the back and voilá the problem has disappeared. I am of course happy, but also reminded of my famous countryman (via mr. Shakespeare):
(Despite the Union Jack in my avatar, I am Danish....And yes, my mother is called Gertrud and I was still at university at 32)
And therefore as a stranger give it welcome.
There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio,
Than are dreamt of in your philosophy.
There are more things in heaven and earth, Horatio,
Than are dreamt of in your philosophy.
(Despite the Union Jack in my avatar, I am Danish....And yes, my mother is called Gertrud and I was still at university at 32)
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really, vaseline...., really
The TD124 drive train is rather load sensitive. Sticky gooey lube on a sensitive component such as the idler bearing and the step pulley (capstan) bearing should increase load quite a bit. How's your speed consistency? does the unit get up to speed in a reasonable amount of time with that vaseline in there?
Rumble?
In proper condition these turntables will not exhibit any obvious rumble that would be heard through the speakers.
-Steve
The TD124 drive train is rather load sensitive. Sticky gooey lube on a sensitive component such as the idler bearing and the step pulley (capstan) bearing should increase load quite a bit. How's your speed consistency? does the unit get up to speed in a reasonable amount of time with that vaseline in there?
Rumble?
In proper condition these turntables will not exhibit any obvious rumble that would be heard through the speakers.
-Steve
I didn't comment, but all the above are true.. All of these bearings were designed to run with a now long discontinued oil made by Shell.
20wt electric motor oil from the likes of 3 in 1 is about as close as I have come. I have experimented with different viscosity oils and have concluded that 20wt is a good choice - if it's not doing the trick on your TT various bushings should be replaced.
IMO Vasoline is not even an appropriate lubricant for sliding parts except over the very short term. (It will turn into glue within months to a year depending on the environment at least around here.)
20wt electric motor oil from the likes of 3 in 1 is about as close as I have come. I have experimented with different viscosity oils and have concluded that 20wt is a good choice - if it's not doing the trick on your TT various bushings should be replaced.
IMO Vasoline is not even an appropriate lubricant for sliding parts except over the very short term. (It will turn into glue within months to a year depending on the environment at least around here.)
A friend made it for me. Sold the last of my 3009 Series II fairly recently..
It worked but on reflection I would recommend if you are going to spend the sort of coin involved in getting an SPU of any description that you spring for a suitable arm - the 3009 really does not let it perform at near its capability.
I have a Schick with another soon to be on its way and a clone SME 3012 I put together from a kit and bunch of SME parts I mostly had on hand. These arms work very well with SPUs.
It worked but on reflection I would recommend if you are going to spend the sort of coin involved in getting an SPU of any description that you spring for a suitable arm - the 3009 really does not let it perform at near its capability.
I have a Schick with another soon to be on its way and a clone SME 3012 I put together from a kit and bunch of SME parts I mostly had on hand. These arms work very well with SPUs.
Kevin helped me to get my 3009 sorted out for mono Ortofon Mono CG 25 Di MkII.
I hate multi-arm TT's !! I don't know what made me to pursue this road... SME's Headshell mounting collar turns around fairly easy . Not that I have any other SPU at the moment to change the carts ... but I do have vintage ortofon headshell and maybe someday Royal N will land on my lap
Also I bugged the guy who makes conversion kits from 3009 to heavy 3012A but at the end I'm not sure it's worth the hassle. Is it?
I hate multi-arm TT's !! I don't know what made me to pursue this road... SME's Headshell mounting collar turns around fairly easy . Not that I have any other SPU at the moment to change the carts ... but I do have vintage ortofon headshell and maybe someday Royal N will land on my lap
Also I bugged the guy who makes conversion kits from 3009 to heavy 3012A but at the end I'm not sure it's worth the hassle. Is it?
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The older 12 inch is a better sounding arm. I totally doubt the error angle has anything to do with it as most people will never set a PU to better than 0.5 mm of the target. If it is just mass I can not say. Adding mass to the 9 " would help and does. The ideal pick up for the 3009 is not typical of now. As a rough guide Fo should be 8 Hz rather than 12 Hz ( not science, just years of trying and the advice of Roy Gandy ).
There is a small advantage with the SME headshell. The vertical can be set almost 100 % correctly by eye. Arms like Hadcock go a step further as they use the counterweight to tilt the whole arm. Hadcock is a very good arm if wanting something better.
I prefer the old 12" to the Series 5. I like the new arms in the M range. The 5 is better in the hi fi sense. It doesn't seem to suit many common PU's. The Lyra Argo and Shure M44 being ones I liked in it. The M44 is used for 78's. I have heard it with a 33/45 stylus, a strangly good combination sounding much like a Decca London. I was tempted to get a special tip from Expert Pick Ups for one.
With only limited experiance I think I prefer the old 12 " SME to the Ortofon arms of late.
The 10" SME seemed almost as good as the 12 ". It usually fits well enough in the 9 " hole .
There is a small advantage with the SME headshell. The vertical can be set almost 100 % correctly by eye. Arms like Hadcock go a step further as they use the counterweight to tilt the whole arm. Hadcock is a very good arm if wanting something better.
I prefer the old 12" to the Series 5. I like the new arms in the M range. The 5 is better in the hi fi sense. It doesn't seem to suit many common PU's. The Lyra Argo and Shure M44 being ones I liked in it. The M44 is used for 78's. I have heard it with a 33/45 stylus, a strangly good combination sounding much like a Decca London. I was tempted to get a special tip from Expert Pick Ups for one.
With only limited experiance I think I prefer the old 12 " SME to the Ortofon arms of late.
The 10" SME seemed almost as good as the 12 ". It usually fits well enough in the 9 " hole .
Sorry didn't express clear, I meant the cap holding the bearing ball, had to pop it out to replace the ball as there is a small dent, so normally what kind of grease should I use to hold the new bearing ball to the shaft as I dont think it's good idea to put the original back,
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I am a little confused by this since the Mørch GS6a (which has a bearing which, as far as I know, is a solid hollowed out bar of oilite) is lubricated with a mixture of axlegrease and sewing machine oil. Before Mørch decided on that mixture he used Molykote D paste but that gummed up after a few years, hence the change.