It's a sort of poor man's Harbeth, isn't it!
I'd be itching to put a modern SEAS 27mm. metal tweeter in it. The art has come on.
SEAS PRESTIGE TWEETERS
BTW, some cabinet ideas in BBC/Harbeth style here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/223174-interesting-read-i-found-lossy-cabinet-designs-harbeth.html#post3234256
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I'd be itching to put a modern SEAS 27mm. metal tweeter in it. The art has come on.
SEAS PRESTIGE TWEETERS
BTW, some cabinet ideas in BBC/Harbeth style here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/223174-interesting-read-i-found-lossy-cabinet-designs-harbeth.html#post3234256
MC4 rewired
Rewired the internal cabling today, used what I had laying around, gosh what a difference, its like the speakers have been put on steroids. The sound is so much more alive and dynamic. But put on AC-DC and the rythum guitar a bit in your face, hardly a relaxing listen lol
The cable I used is silver, perhaps not the best match for metal domed tweeters then...
The cable is HU1 from IPL:
IPL CABLES
Rewired the internal cabling today, used what I had laying around, gosh what a difference, its like the speakers have been put on steroids. The sound is so much more alive and dynamic. But put on AC-DC and the rythum guitar a bit in your face, hardly a relaxing listen lol
The cable I used is silver, perhaps not the best match for metal domed tweeters then...
The cable is HU1 from IPL:
IPL CABLES
Attachments
I never get it with cable changes. A couple of feet of super duper silver really oughtn't to make a difference.
Your average inductive coil has about 6 feet of copper in it. The voicecoils are pretty long too. Plus the speaker cables.
I think it's the fresh unoxidised contacts you might be hearing.
BTW, do twist the speaker pairs a little, otherwise you open them up to inductance.
I think you'd get more mileage out of a 7.5R + 0.68uF Zobel across the tweeter output to tame the top end. I love tweeter Zobels, they just so much clean up the top end.
Your average inductive coil has about 6 feet of copper in it. The voicecoils are pretty long too. Plus the speaker cables.
I think it's the fresh unoxidised contacts you might be hearing.
BTW, do twist the speaker pairs a little, otherwise you open them up to inductance.
I think you'd get more mileage out of a 7.5R + 0.68uF Zobel across the tweeter output to tame the top end. I love tweeter Zobels, they just so much clean up the top end.
They didn't image at all well on them and hardly surprising with the treble firing at my chest..
Hi, that is not the case with a decent distance and typical sofa, rgds, sreten.
All good fun, BarbieBoy. I've spent the last three days on my little ones. They're cute, IMO. 6" bass plus cone tweeter.
They sounded terrible. Harsh. I did about 6 builds. Finally got it. A 8.2R + 1uF Zobel across the tweeter was what they needed. Now they have pace and rythym and a laid back feel.
They sounded terrible. Harsh. I did about 6 builds. Finally got it. A 8.2R + 1uF Zobel across the tweeter was what they needed. Now they have pace and rythym and a laid back feel.
Attachments
Hi, that is not the case with a decent distance and typical sofa, rgds, sreten.
No speaker sounds any good when too low, unless if a hippy sitting on the floor
I'm looking at renewing the caps and Falcon are asking for a tolerance to be selected ?
ClarityCap Capacitor ESA 250 V 3.00uF, Free UK Delivery, superb combination of price & value.
ClarityCap Capacitor ESA 250 V 3.00uF, Free UK Delivery, superb combination of price & value.
Has anyone got any info / specs on these speakers,
old reviews, brochure ? All I know is that they are 8ohms !
Hi,
Rave reviews at the time for the quality, but at the price
the vinyl finish was a major downer, they didn't sell well.
The TPX bassmid I think suffered from the lack of
extremely consistent supply and needed to be
precise way beyond its other typical uses.
(Which is laboratory stuff and stiff wine / beer glasses.)
Peerless experimented with a TPX/Poly combination.
rgds, sreten.
FWIW the original MC2's and MC4's were designed
by Martin Colloms, and both with the loads of foam
stuffing, indicate drivers out of the original spec.
Both were replaced by inferior designs very shortly.
Driver consistency I suspect was the major issue.
Still I like my MC2's a lot.
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When designing crossovers, I'd never worry about getting nearer than 10% even with a notch. That's why you go for the nearest preferred value. Resonant frequency of an LC circuit is the root of 1/LC.
So 10% change in value produces a 5% change in frequency. I don't suppose film types vary much.
Preferred values are stuff like 2.2uF, 2.7uF, 3.3uF, 3.9uF, 4.7Uf, 5.6uf, 6.8uf, 8.2uF, 10uF, 12uF, 15uF, 18uF, 22uF. Falcon and Wilmslow have that.
I wouldn't have use for anything closer. Same for coils and resistors. With resistors, I just get biggish 10W wirewound types because they work for everything.
A rougher range like Maplin's, frequently stocked is 2.2uF, 3.3uF, 4.7uF, 6.8uF, 10uF, 15uF, 22uF. That can be problematic.
Occasionally you encounter 10uF, 12uF, 16uF, 20uF and so on.
The price hikes with 250V, 400V, 630V and 1000V. But curiously, I find smaller cheaper 250V types have some advantages with build size and a theoretical smaller common-mode crosstalk and interference, and are my current weapon of choice.
So 10% change in value produces a 5% change in frequency. I don't suppose film types vary much.
Preferred values are stuff like 2.2uF, 2.7uF, 3.3uF, 3.9uF, 4.7Uf, 5.6uf, 6.8uf, 8.2uF, 10uF, 12uF, 15uF, 18uF, 22uF. Falcon and Wilmslow have that.
I wouldn't have use for anything closer. Same for coils and resistors. With resistors, I just get biggish 10W wirewound types because they work for everything.
A rougher range like Maplin's, frequently stocked is 2.2uF, 3.3uF, 4.7uF, 6.8uF, 10uF, 15uF, 22uF. That can be problematic.
Occasionally you encounter 10uF, 12uF, 16uF, 20uF and so on.
The price hikes with 250V, 400V, 630V and 1000V. But curiously, I find smaller cheaper 250V types have some advantages with build size and a theoretical smaller common-mode crosstalk and interference, and are my current weapon of choice.
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The front baffle is vinyl, but the sides are wood veneer I think you will find
Hi,
Short answer is simply no, they are all vinyl,
if you have a pair that should be obvious.
rgds, sreten.
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Hi,
Short answer is simply no, they are all vinyl.
rgds, sreten.
I'm leaving the cabinet work until last, so will let you know ! But the inside of the cabinets are veneered, odd to cover that with vinyl on the exterior. The MC5s were definitely vinyl and highly criticized for that too
The ones in the MC4s are 3.0uF and 6.0uF @160VDC, so these Claritycaps @250V should do the trick
3.3uF and 5.6uF would be an imperceptable change. I'd do that if it saved money.
But the inside of the cabinets are veneered,
Hi,.
Well they won't be the mk1 versions of the MC2's or MC4's.
Your right in that veneered cabs have an internal veneer.
(Most veneered cabinets use balanced stock at the time.)
rgds, sreten.
the mk2 versions of the MC2 and MC4 are very different
speakers, and nowhere near as good IMHO, YMMV.
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3.3uF and 5.6uF would be an imperceptable change. I'd do that if it saved money.
Can't see the point of changing the values just to save pennies. Got other things to explore like speaker cables and changing the power valves on my amp
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