Repair tips for dead Crown XLS602 for newby

[wg_ski]

After I fix the Crown I think I will invest in a QSC! And use the Crown for decoration.

QSC makes cheaP amps too - the GX looks like a battery-operted boombox inside. Single-core Intel CPUs (and some Crown amps) have more heatsink. The RMXs are solidly built amps - especially the 3U versions with dual toroids,
but they are heavier, cost more, and prices have been steadily rising. Eventually, they will cost what the old Crest CA series did.

The amount of SMD used in the PLX does make me a little nervous, but I have four of them that have been in use since 2002 with zero problems.

 

[cpembo]

Thanks for that. In Australia, apart from the cheapies, the amps most widely sold are Carvin, EV, QSC, Yamaha and Peavey. I haven't seen Mackie amps around for a while, but I guess they are still out there. The prices of all of these seem to have fallen in recent years - have they all gone the same way?

 

[timbert]

Wow, after 2 1/2 years this thread (I am the OP) gets resurrected. But that's not the remarkable part: I am still trying to fix this amp. Replaced outputs in one channel, and recently in the next. The second time only one TO3 was blown. Replaced the startup relay and a couple other shorted transistors. Then I discovered the service manual instructions, eye-opening and I'm ready to jump back in.

 

[tropicbass]

Where did you find the service manual? I need help. Is there a fuse hidden somewhere?
Thank you

 

[ojskinner]

My XLS 602 just died yesterday. I was using it in bridge mono mode to power 2 older Behringer Eurolive mains (I've used this amp to power the same 2 speakers many times with no problem). It worked fine for an hour with no issues then just powered off. If I disconnect the power cable for approximately 30 minutes then reconnect and press the power switch, the red lights and fan come on for about 1 second. Afterwards, there is no sign of life. If I attempt to power it on immediately afterwards, nothing but if I disconnect power cable and wait 15 to 30 minutes, I get the red lights and fan again for one second. I re-read the manual and realized that I should have set both level knobs to the same setting. Instead, I set channel 1 to about 75% and turned channel 2 all the way off. Could this have been what killed the amp? I don't plan to try to fix it myself but was just wondering what these symptoms might indicate and roughly what I should expect to pay for the repair.

 

[ojskinner]

I also should mention that I did not smell the usual burned components odor. I removed the cover and inspected the components. I didn't see any mushroomed caps. It still looks (and smells) like new.