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Remote relay volume control kit.

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Display issues

Hi Antonio,

We are not avoiding you. Craig realized that his email response to you bounced back for some reason.

Since, you can see something on the display, your basic circuitry is working correctly. I suspect that you just have a bad display. We will be happy to send you a new one FOC.

Just to be sure, have you tried to adjust the brightness and contrast settings using the menus. I'm not sure if you can see enough to get to the settings.

The IR1 volume should track the encoder fairly well. I have seen some display lag if you change it very fast, but the value does "catch up".

So far, we have only had two or three problems with the kit builds.

1) An issue with the software burn of a few microcontrollers.
2) One marginal LCD display (not including yours).
3) A couple of hum issues that were either fixed in software or a different grounding/shielding scheme.
4) Some software bugs.

Trying to do a long range debug is very difficult. We would be happy to test it out here FOC. We would pay the shipping back to you.

We do stand behind our products.

Grataku, please email me at dale-herman@charter.net, so that I can pay for the metal.

Best Regards,

Dale
 
Diplay iusses

Dale,
Thank you for answer, I’m trying to investigate about the problem, and I have found something strange. Coming out from pin 14 (DB5) of the display the are 5 V. the measurement was done disconnecting pen 14 from the board. I suspect there is something broken in the display, since this 5V tension look strange to me.
I’m worried that this 5 V coming out from the display has damaged the PIC which is connected to pin 14 of display directly trough pin 28.
What you think?
Waiting for your answer,
Regards

Antonio
 
Here are a few pics of my finished APOX boards, I tested the Front panel board and it works great from the moment I first powered it up. I have still to test the Volume board and the Input Select board. I have to add the PCB XLR connectors which I picked up from Newark in One for $6 CAD each.

I also have a SOBOZ that is almost finished going into the same Chassis that I am still working on.

Pics are attached.

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An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.


Anthony
 
I looked at it and I got some numbers that make sense. I had the gain split up in decades, -60, -40, and -20 using the 3 resistors.
However, I haven't gone through the tests and the table, yet. It would be nice to know what the software does exactly, at least to know that it does the same thing as in the old version.
I don't want to post something wrong.
 
Here is the table that the software uses,

Basically, the first column represents which bypass relays are closed. 0 = only the R1/R15,

1 = R2/R14 also in circuit
2 = R11/R13 also in circuit
3 = R2/R14/R13/R11 also in circuit


The second column represents which shunt relays are closed.
This is binary so, 255 = all bits, 0=none,

128 = 10000000 so only K8 is closed = R10 in circuit

etc...

This table was generated in order to make sure that the impedence was lower at high volumes, which reduces hum.
 

Attachments

  • rtable.zip
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It makes sure that there is no open circuit condition

The bypass resistors really create 3 sets of log curves that allow us to optimize the dB in between volume settings and also allow us to minimize impedence at high volumes. A fair amount of time was spent optimizing the four sets of resistors, so unless you have a really good reason, I would hesitate to deviate too much.

Peter, I would highly recommend using a 20K or lower minimum impedence. I have used a 5K with the X-BOSOZ/Aleph2 combo and it works great.

Remember that the highest impedence can be quite high and may introduce some hum.

In fact, no one has yet to use anything higher than the 20K as far as I know. Most are using 5K or 10K.

We have an optimized set of resistors for 5K, 10K, 20K, and 50K.

We have not tried the 50K, so I would caution its usage.

Dale
 
I'd like to use the pot at the input of GC, so minimum imp shouldn't be below 10K. I also wouldn't like to see any thing more than 50k of series impedance. What would be optimum setup then?

I agree tht lower imp. work well at the output of the preamp, but in my case I want to use it at the input of the amp without preamp.

I noticed that if one chooses 50k imp the lowest value is like 500k or something similar, and I wouldn't like to go this way either.
 
Peter,

I'll let Craig try and figure out some resistors for your special case.

I can see where you want a fairly constant impedence.

For a similar application (VinnieR's AKSA with APOX as passive), Vinnie used an 50K APOX-2 for its constant impedence. He borrowed my 5K SHM boards, but I'm not sure he had time to try them out.

Dale
 
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