Okay...Added 3 drops of SAE 80W gear oil, let subplatter insert itself(took like an hour!)
Took another look at the motor. Gave it a nice solid "push" down from the top of the pulley, and it seems it clicked down further on the motor shaft, hopefully I didn't damage the motor lol.
Maybe the pulley rode up too high, somehow. If I can manage to get the pulley off, I'll put a drop of crazy glue or loctite on the motor shaft, and put the plastic pulley back on, as far down it will go.?
Took another look at the motor. Gave it a nice solid "push" down from the top of the pulley, and it seems it clicked down further on the motor shaft, hopefully I didn't damage the motor lol.
Maybe the pulley rode up too high, somehow. If I can manage to get the pulley off, I'll put a drop of crazy glue or loctite on the motor shaft, and put the plastic pulley back on, as far down it will go.?
Your picture of the shaft (although blur) doesn't show any undue wear. It looks normal and fine.
You can use a thinner diameter magnetized screwdriver to fish out the ball bearing. Hope the ball is still there, otherwise buy one to replace it immediately. The ball is a plain 4.75mm or 3/16" diameter ball bearing. No big deal. Another way is to unlock the bearing bolt underneath and remove the entire assembly for fully degreasing and cleanup. The assembly can be eased up to remove from the plinth. Its that simple. No rocket science here.
I had mentioned earlier apply oil only to one side of the spindle and let it settle down by itself in a matter of minutes. It'll take some time for air to be pushed out and the oil forms an air tight seal after turning. No need to apply pressure to seat it in and there shouldn't be any side play.
I had a look at mine and there should be roughly 1mm of gap between the subplatter wheel and plinth for things to be correct in that department.
I don't suggest you to hand pluck out the motor pully if the motor is fixed. The motor is attached to the plinth with only the laminate inbetween the motor and plinth. You're advised to remove the whole motor assembly for pulley removal.
If I'm not mistaken the PLASTIC Pulley type have to be quickly seated in fully after a tiny a dab of super glue on the motor shaft. If I can recall, there's no through at the top to to see its flush with the end of the motor shaft.
The NEW type motor and pulley is made of aluminum or alloy and the pulley hole is right through, thus should be flush with the end of the motor shaft to be correct.
I'd personally suggest any Planar 3 owner to purchase the upgrade motor for better performance, a newer design and lease of life intending to keep this turntable indefinitely. Hope all the above helps.
You can use a thinner diameter magnetized screwdriver to fish out the ball bearing. Hope the ball is still there, otherwise buy one to replace it immediately. The ball is a plain 4.75mm or 3/16" diameter ball bearing. No big deal. Another way is to unlock the bearing bolt underneath and remove the entire assembly for fully degreasing and cleanup. The assembly can be eased up to remove from the plinth. Its that simple. No rocket science here.
I had mentioned earlier apply oil only to one side of the spindle and let it settle down by itself in a matter of minutes. It'll take some time for air to be pushed out and the oil forms an air tight seal after turning. No need to apply pressure to seat it in and there shouldn't be any side play.
I had a look at mine and there should be roughly 1mm of gap between the subplatter wheel and plinth for things to be correct in that department.
I don't suggest you to hand pluck out the motor pully if the motor is fixed. The motor is attached to the plinth with only the laminate inbetween the motor and plinth. You're advised to remove the whole motor assembly for pulley removal.
If I'm not mistaken the PLASTIC Pulley type have to be quickly seated in fully after a tiny a dab of super glue on the motor shaft. If I can recall, there's no through at the top to to see its flush with the end of the motor shaft.
The NEW type motor and pulley is made of aluminum or alloy and the pulley hole is right through, thus should be flush with the end of the motor shaft to be correct.
I'd personally suggest any Planar 3 owner to purchase the upgrade motor for better performance, a newer design and lease of life intending to keep this turntable indefinitely. Hope all the above helps.
Here is a picture of what it's looking like right now:
http://www.mediafire.com/imageview.php?quickkey=xhmyt1t41jx&thumb=4
Coolmaster, when you mention the 1mm gap, are you referring to underneath, where the subplatter rests on top of the brass bearing assembly?
The ball bearing is still there. I looked inside before I re-inserted the subplatter/shaft.
It looks like there is a smidgon of oil between the bearing housing and subplatter, looks around 1mm to me. : )
The motor is the elastic-mounted style with the plastic pulley wheel. When I pushed this down, the shaft didn't come through the top, or any damage like that. Let me know your thoughts on the picture, when possible. Thanks!
http://www.mediafire.com/imageview.php?quickkey=xhmyt1t41jx&thumb=4
Coolmaster, when you mention the 1mm gap, are you referring to underneath, where the subplatter rests on top of the brass bearing assembly?
The ball bearing is still there. I looked inside before I re-inserted the subplatter/shaft.
It looks like there is a smidgon of oil between the bearing housing and subplatter, looks around 1mm to me. : )
The motor is the elastic-mounted style with the plastic pulley wheel. When I pushed this down, the shaft didn't come through the top, or any damage like that. Let me know your thoughts on the picture, when possible. Thanks!
GCD750 said:Coolmaster, when you mention the 1mm gap, are you referring to underneath, where the subplatter rests on top of the brass bearing assembly?
The motor is the elastic-mounted style with the plastic pulley wheel. When I pushed this down, the shaft didn't come through the top, or any damage like that. Let me know your thoughts on the picture, when possible. Thanks!
I looked at your initial pictures again and its pointing at A-OK, ruling out undue wear at the subplatter department. Leave that now.
I'm thinking and almost positive the motor pulley is riding high on the motor shaft and in any case, it MUST NOT be touching or rubbing the glass platter at all.
I think you now have to do something now to remove the motor assembly and repositioning the pulley so that the belt rides a little more than midway at the wheel and the motor pulley is not in contact with the glass platter.
Coolermaster is right, no rocket science, when I had to play with my planar 3 i was a little scared, but there is nothing at all that is high precision. Rip it all apart, so to speak, chuck it back together, you'll know that soon anyway, but be careful with the two screws for the motor asembly if they are the plastic type.
Thanks for all your help! I know it's really not rocket science, but I was thinking that there may be certain specs that this unit had to be set at. I want to flip it and take the motor cover off and check out the works, and take some pics, but *quite* weary of how to manage this, without doing any harm to the oil-filled platter assembly, and more importantly, the RB 300, with an unprotected Benz Micro Ace that's mounted on it.
Few precautions.
ALWAYS remove the whole tonearm assembly and put aside, if you going to do serious work to the turntable like disassembling the motor, main bearing or both.
Its best also to remove the subplatter assembly and ball bearing in event that the table is going to be flipped over. Clean out the bearing of any oil to prevent mess. Do NOT flip over the plinth and let it rest on the subplatter spindle or motor pulley. If the motor still is in place, you could flip the plinth over and rest on a pack of books on each side like a form of underside support whilst you work on the motor area.
Never turn the TT upside down with the subplatter in place. Oil may leak out. This concur with handling and storage instructions that the TT is never to be stored upside down.
To remove the motor, you have to carefully unsolder the wires ( carefully noting for re-soldering back) at the PCB. Remove the 2 plastic screws that fasten the aluminum bracket. ENSURE you use a proper fit Philips screwdriver to unfasten. The plastic screws can get damaged easily if the driver bit is not a perfect fit.
Try obtain new O ring (a smaller diameter by 1-2 sizes can also do), replace the old one if its been many years.
ALWAYS remove the whole tonearm assembly and put aside, if you going to do serious work to the turntable like disassembling the motor, main bearing or both.
Its best also to remove the subplatter assembly and ball bearing in event that the table is going to be flipped over. Clean out the bearing of any oil to prevent mess. Do NOT flip over the plinth and let it rest on the subplatter spindle or motor pulley. If the motor still is in place, you could flip the plinth over and rest on a pack of books on each side like a form of underside support whilst you work on the motor area.
Never turn the TT upside down with the subplatter in place. Oil may leak out. This concur with handling and storage instructions that the TT is never to be stored upside down.
To remove the motor, you have to carefully unsolder the wires ( carefully noting for re-soldering back) at the PCB. Remove the 2 plastic screws that fasten the aluminum bracket. ENSURE you use a proper fit Philips screwdriver to unfasten. The plastic screws can get damaged easily if the driver bit is not a perfect fit.
Try obtain new O ring (a smaller diameter by 1-2 sizes can also do), replace the old one if its been many years.
What I've done for others before is after installing a new O-ring and bracket, ready to bolt it the whole motor back, I'd stick on quality double side tape onto the bracket (carefully but not over the O-ring) and bolt the whole assembly back on the laminate. The motor pulley must be positioned as center as possible at the hole. DO NOT push the motor in too hard against the laminate. In practice, the motor hangs from the thin laminate, NOT the thickness of the plinth. A little off center but away from the subplatter wheel is permissible. Too near and there'll be more belt slack. Use your best judgement to tackle this.
The new type motor assembly (although initially seen as simply stuck on with double sided tape) will NEVER fall off. The motor is stuck permanently but it has a bottom bearing cover and another double side tape disc stuck and aligned to support the bottom of the motor. With the cover plate in place, it's permanent. This does away with screws at the top side. Brilliant!
The new type motor assembly (although initially seen as simply stuck on with double sided tape) will NEVER fall off. The motor is stuck permanently but it has a bottom bearing cover and another double side tape disc stuck and aligned to support the bottom of the motor. With the cover plate in place, it's permanent. This does away with screws at the top side. Brilliant!
Just sticking the old motor with ds tape is not a smart plan IMO. The Rega upgrade also involves a new PCB with some circuit tricks reducing motor vibration over the old cap/resistor type as well as a thrust pad. This makes hard mounting less of an issue. Use a stethoscope to evaluate before and after properly. If it was so easy to mount the motor vibration free you really think Rega would go through the schlep of the ally plate and o ring and all that? They could make more cash mounting the simple way which they now do, they got rid of the hardware and added some tape and a resistor or 2 to the circuit.
SRM offer better solutions for old motors with their silent base kit!
I can PM the motor angle set up / troubleshooting guide Rega had on their website by accident a little while ago. Take care with those plastic screws!
SRM offer better solutions for old motors with their silent base kit!
I can PM the motor angle set up / troubleshooting guide Rega had on their website by accident a little while ago. Take care with those plastic screws!
tubenut is generally correct if using DS tape thoughtlessly.
The old O ring method was OK but did not last and after some years the motor would rattle on startup. I'm assuming most Rega owner would not detect the faulty O ring nor have a clue to solve the motor rattle which most would live with the problem till the next upgrade.
Anyway, I'm all for any Rega owner to spend some money to renew to the upgrade motor kit once and for all, inspect and re-lube the bearings every 5 years for another lease of life of Roy Gandy's greatest budget TT ever invented.
Ultimately, I'm really hoping I could upgrade my P3 to the newer 24VAC motor plus motor controller. I'm really hoping Rega comes up with this offer in due course and enjoying a more accurate 33/45rpm speed.
tubenut, you're lucky to have those service instructions too.
The old O ring method was OK but did not last and after some years the motor would rattle on startup. I'm assuming most Rega owner would not detect the faulty O ring nor have a clue to solve the motor rattle which most would live with the problem till the next upgrade.
Anyway, I'm all for any Rega owner to spend some money to renew to the upgrade motor kit once and for all, inspect and re-lube the bearings every 5 years for another lease of life of Roy Gandy's greatest budget TT ever invented.
Ultimately, I'm really hoping I could upgrade my P3 to the newer 24VAC motor plus motor controller. I'm really hoping Rega comes up with this offer in due course and enjoying a more accurate 33/45rpm speed.
tubenut, you're lucky to have those service instructions too.
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