Oliver, don't wait for the exchange rate - you might be waiting for months and months!
I need some Red Baron v.5 boards. Please order some. Pretty please!
Lucas
Hi Lucas
It is quite possible that I still have some of Red Barons PCB.
If you are in hurry, please PM me, I can check it by Saturday.
BR
Saulius
I wonder if anyone can help me with a problem with Oliver's 3-way Salas shunt regulator board. I assembled it well over a year ago but put it aside because procrastination is what I'm best at. Digging it out last week, I remember why - the voltage on none of the rails goes low enough. For testing, I'm using a 19v DC input on each of the +/-5v and the -15v. Full (click-stopping) adjustment of the pot gets the output down to +5.3, -6.5 and -18v.
I readily admit that I don't properly understand the circuit. Can anyone give me any pointers as to where I might start looking? Many thanks.
Dave
I readily admit that I don't properly understand the circuit. Can anyone give me any pointers as to where I might start looking? Many thanks.
Dave
hi Ryelands, if you download the guide https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bz_NDl8g9I4fNVVaT1pvcmpEeVE/edit?pli=1 and read appendix 1 this should it explain to you what you need to do.
Does your configuration match either a. or b. for the 5V and c. for the -15V?
You may also want to check the volt drop across the leds.
Does your configuration match either a. or b. for the 5V and c. for the -15V?
You may also want to check the volt drop across the leds.
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If you download the guide
Many thanks for the link. I'll give it a careful read and take some measurements over the weekend. Here's hoping . . .
Dave
. . . do all of the LEDs light up brightly?
Thanks for the reply. Yes, they light up much as I'd expect; the drop across each is ~1.9v. After reading Salas' notes and putting a resistor on the output to draw ~50ma, I replaced the 500R trimpot in the -15v circuit with a 1K pot and was able to swing from well below -15v to above with the final setting roughly in the middle. (I don't have parts to hand for the pots in the +/-5V boards so can''t as yet try the change on them.)
BUT - there's always a but - I noticed that the output starts at about -15.7 volts and takes ten minutes or more to settle down to -15v. Is that normal? Doesn't seem right to me.
Dave
Hi Dave, Im not sure, but mine tended to drift until I used shorter wire. It was oscillating a bit so I cut the wire leads to the dummy load and it was stable. Can you check with oscilloscope? If its stable I wouldn't be too concerned, but I am not an expert so maybe someone else can chime in, or ask Salas in his build thread.
...takes ten minutes or more to settle down to -15v. Is that normal? Dave
No, not normal. I will take a close look, but mine pretty much come to the set voltage immediately and stay right on. In fact yesterday I was measuring a +5v and dialed it in to exactly 5.000 V.
No, not normal. I will take a close look, but mine pretty much come to the set voltage immediately and stay right on. In fact yesterday I was measuring a +5v and dialed it in to exactly 5.000 V.
nice equipment you must have, I don't think my meter has ever given me two readings the same
Labas Saulus,
If you happen to have one or two boards let me know ,
Oleg
Privet Oleg,
sorry to say I had only one left and it is already reserved for Lucas.
Saulius
Many thanks for the Red Baron v5 board Saulius. It is all built up.
Sadly though, I have no sound Perhaps Oliver can help
I still have not much clue about which board is at fault - the Teradak i2s converter, the Red Baron, or the Tubizator....
I have checked that the -15, -5 and +5 are present on the chip itself , have checked that the new design i2s attenuator has power (although it's 4.5v as I haven't yet made up a 3.3v regulator. Shouldn't it still work?)
My Tubizator valves are glowing , and have the required voltage . I have used the 75R resistors on the underside of my v1 tubizator pins. Is that OK?
How do I check if the i2s is present at the DAC? How do I check if audio signals are coming from the Red baron Board to the output stage?
Many thanks
Lucas
Sadly though, I have no sound Perhaps Oliver can help
I still have not much clue about which board is at fault - the Teradak i2s converter, the Red Baron, or the Tubizator....
I have checked that the -15, -5 and +5 are present on the chip itself , have checked that the new design i2s attenuator has power (although it's 4.5v as I haven't yet made up a 3.3v regulator. Shouldn't it still work?)
My Tubizator valves are glowing , and have the required voltage . I have used the 75R resistors on the underside of my v1 tubizator pins. Is that OK?
How do I check if the i2s is present at the DAC? How do I check if audio signals are coming from the Red baron Board to the output stage?
Many thanks
Lucas
Suspecting my Teralink X2, I have checked my DC voltages at the i2s input to the Red Baron board with music playing from iTunes. I have:
BCK: 2.7vDC, 0.004vAC
WS/FS: 2.5vDC, 0.34vAC
DATA: 1.9vDC (fluctuating 1.9v - 1.95vDC) and 0.4vAC (fluctuating 0.4v - 0.45vAC)
Is this normal? Thanks
BCK: 2.7vDC, 0.004vAC
WS/FS: 2.5vDC, 0.34vAC
DATA: 1.9vDC (fluctuating 1.9v - 1.95vDC) and 0.4vAC (fluctuating 0.4v - 0.45vAC)
Is this normal? Thanks
I am now convinced that my issue is i2S.
I touched the DATA and WS pins together, and got (highly distorted) music.
So, I have UFL pads soldered in place, but I'm not using them yet.
I have them wired as with my old TDA1541 board: GREEN to data, BLUE to FS/WS and BROWN to BCK, but it's not working. Am I missing something? Does the GND need to go just to the Red Baron Board i2s gnd, or somewhere else too?
I touched the DATA and WS pins together, and got (highly distorted) music.
So, I have UFL pads soldered in place, but I'm not using them yet.
I have them wired as with my old TDA1541 board: GREEN to data, BLUE to FS/WS and BROWN to BCK, but it's not working. Am I missing something? Does the GND need to go just to the Red Baron Board i2s gnd, or somewhere else too?
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