http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/Fonken108-0v7-map-311208.pdf
How would this 4.5 Liter box work compared to bit bigger tunnel box?
Also could increase its literage slightly by making box depth higher.
How would this 4.5 Liter box work compared to bit bigger tunnel box?
Also could increase its literage slightly by making box depth higher.
Short answer: No, not per se.
Explanation:
The performance of a box and box design depends on the acoustics of the enviroment and on the speaker you're putting in it. A tline will generally be louder than a sealed box, though. But less "punchy" as a closed box generally hass less resonating in your ears.
So: The box you choose depends on where you'll put the speaker and what speaker you have. It also depends on what sound you want: Loud, flat response, deep, ...
Got the driver , its has rediculos ammount of fixation screws.
Does anyone have experience with this small box?
http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/Fon...map-311208.pdf
What does the wood backing behind driver help with?
Is it good choice as small box to pc table?
Does anyone have experience with this small box?
http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/Fon...map-311208.pdf
What does the wood backing behind driver help with?
Is it good choice as small box to pc table?
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A lot of fixation screws just add to the rigidity, which is a great thing. It can help with bass response.
I've built two of the fonken enclosures. The wood backing behind the driver is more help with rigidity, especially holding the driver and preventing movement, be it ever so small. The more rigid and the lower the movement of anything but the cone and the air, the better. In general, the heavier and more rigid you can make an enclosure, the better.
Depending on the size of your desk, it should make a speaker for your PC. But that's more of a personal preference.
Mike
I've probably had experience with more of Dave's Fonken designs than most folks, and as noted above have heard the 108s in at least 3 different enclosures, but not that one. In short, I'd reiterate the opinion that this driver and a small box of any type will not begin to approach the its LF potential.
That said, as you've indicated there'd be bass support available, that's probably not much of an issue - although even when box volume and tuning models a limitation in bass response, I'd still recommend high pass filtering of a small driver when used in an essentially FAST configuration. You'll reap benefits of higher SPLs with less excursion limitation induced upper mid-bass distortion.
As for the actual drawing, some comments based on building literally scores of this design family for dozens of driver makes/ models:
- The internal vertical battens are to provide additional glue surface area/structual reinforcement for the very narrow front baffle.
- The Sigma driver has a very nicely designed tapered cast frame, and does not require countersinking for flush mounting as is definitely the case for most Mark Audio models, and many by TangBand. However, if using material any thicker than ~12mm / 1/2" for the front baffle, chamfering of the rear side of driver opening should be considered mandatory - even on an open baffle.
- The holey brace is the single trickiest part to size exactly right as drawn to avoid stressing the driver mount, and its dimensions could be adjusted to eliminate the direct contact with the magnet assembly.
- With some restrictions, you could adjust the dimensions of the enclosure; maintain net internal cubic volume and CSA/ length of port slots. If you increase the width and/or depth, that would mean increasing the size of port slot divider for the former, and for the latter adding a block at the rear of slot to maintain its effective length. Those changes could be done separately or together.
Some of the more elaborate folded "horn", labyrinth, or even less complex but larger resonant enclosure types such as an MLTL are intended to extract the most from the drivers LF potential, which if not part of the overall system design could be considered unnecessary.
That said, as you've indicated there'd be bass support available, that's probably not much of an issue - although even when box volume and tuning models a limitation in bass response, I'd still recommend high pass filtering of a small driver when used in an essentially FAST configuration. You'll reap benefits of higher SPLs with less excursion limitation induced upper mid-bass distortion.
As for the actual drawing, some comments based on building literally scores of this design family for dozens of driver makes/ models:
- The internal vertical battens are to provide additional glue surface area/structual reinforcement for the very narrow front baffle.
- The Sigma driver has a very nicely designed tapered cast frame, and does not require countersinking for flush mounting as is definitely the case for most Mark Audio models, and many by TangBand. However, if using material any thicker than ~12mm / 1/2" for the front baffle, chamfering of the rear side of driver opening should be considered mandatory - even on an open baffle.
- The holey brace is the single trickiest part to size exactly right as drawn to avoid stressing the driver mount, and its dimensions could be adjusted to eliminate the direct contact with the magnet assembly.
- With some restrictions, you could adjust the dimensions of the enclosure; maintain net internal cubic volume and CSA/ length of port slots. If you increase the width and/or depth, that would mean increasing the size of port slot divider for the former, and for the latter adding a block at the rear of slot to maintain its effective length. Those changes could be done separately or together.
Some of the more elaborate folded "horn", labyrinth, or even less complex but larger resonant enclosure types such as an MLTL are intended to extract the most from the drivers LF potential, which if not part of the overall system design could be considered unnecessary.
""I'd still recommend high pass filtering of a small driver when used in an essentially FAST configuration. You'll reap benefits of higher SPLs with less excursion limitation induced upper mid-bass distortion.""
High-pass filter would be good if connected to floor speakers but wont listen loud often.
Already made small boxes from cardboard and tested with 20db eq at 30/60/ 125hz , Bass was not increasing much but distortions in mid range came audible well during 30-40hz bass. (It probably has to do with force resistance of driver trying to go to mid position)
Midrange sound was good even tiny cardboard boxes and if directly in front high freq also is sharp , but no bass.
It is ridiculous to have 8 screws + wood pressed on magnet holding it but il probably end up making it , hopefully mid and high freq comes trough in small box as well as bigger boxes.
High-pass filter would be good if connected to floor speakers but wont listen loud often.
Already made small boxes from cardboard and tested with 20db eq at 30/60/ 125hz , Bass was not increasing much but distortions in mid range came audible well during 30-40hz bass. (It probably has to do with force resistance of driver trying to go to mid position)
Midrange sound was good even tiny cardboard boxes and if directly in front high freq also is sharp , but no bass.
It is ridiculous to have 8 screws + wood pressed on magnet holding it but il probably end up making it , hopefully mid and high freq comes trough in small box as well as bigger boxes.
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As I thought my previous post made clear, the direct contact between the holey brace and the driver magnet could certainly be considered overkill, but I don't think the continuous bracing between the 2 sides and back panel can hurt.
As for the ridiculous number of mounting screws on the Sigmas - that's the manufacturer's fault.
As for the ridiculous number of mounting screws on the Sigmas - that's the manufacturer's fault.
Got the boxes made slightly thicker than specs but made sidewalls longer to comapensate , will start testing with damping material someday to compare speakers sound for optimal ammount.
What damping material to use and how much is good for start?
Is it good idea to use resistors on table speaker to balance sound levels between floorstanding?
What damping material to use and how much is good for start?
Is it good idea to use resistors on table speaker to balance sound levels between floorstanding?
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If you're still talking about the little Fonkenette , keep in mind that even without the lateral brace as drawn, the 4" driver opening is a pretty small hole through which to access inside the box after assembly. I always install the damping material on these before attaching the final panel, or build with the back panel removable (on cleats).
We like a 1/2" recycled lightly felted denim material called UltraTouch. It's my understanding that it was originally designed for lining of sheet metal HVAC ducting. Equal thickness and density of any natural fiber backing - jute, cotton etc as you might source via upholstery suppliers should work. On our builds, "we" line sides, top, back, slot vent panels, and as much of the front panel as possible - being careful not to obstruct the internal vent opening or the area immediately surrounding the driver opening. On boxes this size, that latter part usually means cutting two pieces with large arcs for above and below the drivers.
, keep in mind that even without the lateral brace as drawn, the 4" driver opening is a pretty small hole through which to access inside the box after assembly. I always install the damping material on these before attaching the final panel, or build with the back panel removable (on cleats). We like a 1/2" recycled lightly felted denim material called UltraTouch. It's my understanding that it was originally designed for lining of sheet metal HVAC ducting. Equal thickness and density of any natural fiber backing - jute, cotton etc as you might source via upholstery suppliers should work. On our builds, "we" line sides, top, back, slot vent panels, and as much of the front panel as possible - being careful not to obstruct the internal vent opening or the area immediately surrounding the driver opening. On boxes this size, that latter part usually means cutting two pieces with large arcs for above and below the drivers.
If all walls premade with damping , to add or remove material not too hard trough 10cm hole unless very big hand.
Generally what will more vs less damping achive in small inverter widerange box and in floorstanding push-pull subwoofer?
Here floorstanding speaker damping , plenty inside and not much room for more, I think white is added by someone, not factory.
Could make glued felt damping to box walls and take some white from there to fill the widerange boxes.
Generally what will more vs less damping achive in small inverter widerange box and in floorstanding push-pull subwoofer?
Here floorstanding speaker damping , plenty inside and not much room for more, I think white is added by someone, not factory.
Could make glued felt damping to box walls and take some white from there to fill the widerange boxes.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Made damping by glueing soft carpet to all internal walls, not sure how it affected sound but later if adding lots of white damping it didnot seem to affect much.
Not sure what would lots of damping vs little do but probably bigger effect on low freq and fostex does not have much low freq.
But it should remove some sound wave reflections in box.
Not sure what would lots of damping vs little do but probably bigger effect on low freq and fostex does not have much low freq.
But it should remove some sound wave reflections in box.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Tested 10 and 20 ohm resistors to balance sound levels table vs floor , resistors also seemed to remove some quality or clarity from fostex.
Probably something related to dynamic resistance and reduced feedback or increased damping factor.
Used screws + glue to piece together , middle support didnot put inside because 18mm panels already good.
Midrange of the driver seems to be decent and up to 15-16khz response.
Bass appeared to be best if closed both front inverter ports completely , otherwise if ports open it produces ugly overpowered bass at about 100-150hz with some music.
With ports open bass response dropped unhearable fast below 58-60hz and peak around ~120-200hz.
With closed box ~150hz region was reduced and it seems to get hearable peak at around ~40-50hz but ~70hz seem to get big dip also.
Now with ports completely closed could more inside damping help something also or the damping on all walls should be sufficient?
Probably something related to dynamic resistance and reduced feedback or increased damping factor.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Used screws + glue to piece together , middle support didnot put inside because 18mm panels already good.
Midrange of the driver seems to be decent and up to 15-16khz response.
Bass appeared to be best if closed both front inverter ports completely , otherwise if ports open it produces ugly overpowered bass at about 100-150hz with some music.
With ports open bass response dropped unhearable fast below 58-60hz and peak around ~120-200hz.
With closed box ~150hz region was reduced and it seems to get hearable peak at around ~40-50hz but ~70hz seem to get big dip also.
Now with ports completely closed could more inside damping help something also or the damping on all walls should be sufficient?
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If inductor comes in then could put high pass filter also to cut low freq from widerange driver.
Played fostex using 10 ohm resistor and without amp , straight from dac , sound seemed bit better than using amp.
If put big resistor 50 or 100+ohm then
Hi,
I have gotten much mid-bass at 100-160hz range ,with the forstex driver.
So far have tryed closing inverter ports and using equalizer to remove 125hz improves. but only can use it while listening on PC.
Please reccomend methods to reduce 100-160hz bass of the 4" full range driver?
Is there some mod to try on enclosure?
I have gotten much mid-bass at 100-160hz range ,with the forstex driver.
So far have tryed closing inverter ports and using equalizer to remove 125hz improves. but only can use it while listening on PC.
Please reccomend methods to reduce 100-160hz bass of the 4" full range driver?
Is there some mod to try on enclosure?
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The mFonken for the FE108e∑ needs to be tuned considerably higher than the mFonken for the FE127e that you used.
The plan URL (should be) here: http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/mFonken108-map-311208.pdf
This info was originally posted on the forum at the time the drawing was made.
The damping material does not take away from the box volume, if anything it increases the apparent volume. Bass reflex enclosures are usually just lined not stuffed,
dave
The plan URL (should be) here: http://www.planet10-hifi.com/downloads/mFonken108-map-311208.pdf
This info was originally posted on the forum at the time the drawing was made.
The damping material does not take away from the box volume, if anything it increases the apparent volume. Bass reflex enclosures are usually just lined not stuffed,
dave
Used this drawing as reference.
http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/Fonken108-0v7-map-311208.pdf
Made with 18mm material and to compansate for volume loss made box slightly longer and glued soft carpet as damping to line all walls.
The middle wall inside box is also missing.
Is it important aspect for bass reflex to work or more likely for box rigidity?
http://p10hifi.net/FAL/downloads/Fonken108-0v7-map-311208.pdf
Made with 18mm material and to compansate for volume loss made box slightly longer and glued soft carpet as damping to line all walls.
The middle wall inside box is also missing.
Is it important aspect for bass reflex to work or more likely for box rigidity?
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