I am not sure what I want to use.... I plan to be running 89259 combo with the solid strand stuff RCA cabling, shielded. Inside the amplifier will be Cardas hookup wire 19.5 gauge and vampire cast hook up 26.4 gauge I think for signal. The speaker posts will be Cardas one twists (Percy has these for $36 a pair your choice of size and coating!). I will be using a 350va transformer (on a isolation pad and I need to find out where to get some copper sheet to shield it...).
I am debating what RCA Jack/Plug to use...
http://www.partsconnexion.com/catalog/connectors.html
I was considering the WBT style Connex discontinued RCA plugs... solder (I have WBT silver solder to use) version with the WBT RCA jack's from Connex to match.
Are there any objections to these? They seem sound. I would like copper stuff but it cost a LOT of money, in fact it adds up to more then the amplifier itself and FAST.
Also does any one know if the parts connection 6 position switch will work for stereo operation? I was going to use a black velvet 250k pot from Percy in my pre-amplifier in shunt mode with resistors for logarithmic function (get some good ones from Madisound or some thing) with a switch.
Last question on average how much power do 3886 Twisted Pair kits put out with a 300-400va transformer or what ever they need? I realize they are cute little projects compared to my 3875 premium kit, but I thought about soldering some up for a friend because of the price.
Thanks
I am debating what RCA Jack/Plug to use...
http://www.partsconnexion.com/catalog/connectors.html
I was considering the WBT style Connex discontinued RCA plugs... solder (I have WBT silver solder to use) version with the WBT RCA jack's from Connex to match.
Are there any objections to these? They seem sound. I would like copper stuff but it cost a LOT of money, in fact it adds up to more then the amplifier itself and FAST.
Also does any one know if the parts connection 6 position switch will work for stereo operation? I was going to use a black velvet 250k pot from Percy in my pre-amplifier in shunt mode with resistors for logarithmic function (get some good ones from Madisound or some thing) with a switch.
Last question on average how much power do 3886 Twisted Pair kits put out with a 300-400va transformer or what ever they need? I realize they are cute little projects compared to my 3875 premium kit, but I thought about soldering some up for a friend because of the price.
Thanks
I move my stuff around so no to the soldering every thing directly.
The difference between copper and not is noticable :/ I am thinking about Cardas because some of their stuff has a little bit of copper in it, probably better than none, but more important than a nice WBT connectoin? I am not sure.
The difference between copper and not is noticable :/ I am thinking about Cardas because some of their stuff has a little bit of copper in it, probably better than none, but more important than a nice WBT connectoin? I am not sure.
I was thinking tappable acrylic. Wood supposidly sounds best, but does not look as well with just wood only. Metal is not prefered.
http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/i2.htm
I actually plan to use blocks of copper too, I also ordered a Torodial rubber type ring that is ment to absorb any vibrations that would otherwise radiate. The blocks would be between channels, and between transformer, as well as act as a heat sink.
Right now I am using some home made straight up 9259 coaxial for speaker wire and RCA. This stuff is impressive. The 89259 is a special version that works a little better for RCA signal, but most importantly it is heat resistant. I have had enough melting problems with te 9259 while soldering!
I am still thinking about what to use for interconnect what nots. I do so love copper, it makes a nice difference, but makes a not nice difference in price.
http://www.geocities.com/jonrisch/i2.htm
I actually plan to use blocks of copper too, I also ordered a Torodial rubber type ring that is ment to absorb any vibrations that would otherwise radiate. The blocks would be between channels, and between transformer, as well as act as a heat sink.
Right now I am using some home made straight up 9259 coaxial for speaker wire and RCA. This stuff is impressive. The 89259 is a special version that works a little better for RCA signal, but most importantly it is heat resistant. I have had enough melting problems with te 9259 while soldering!
I am still thinking about what to use for interconnect what nots. I do so love copper, it makes a nice difference, but makes a not nice difference in price.
Ahh, a Belden part number...
I would not be surprised if you found that metal works the best, because it provides some amount of shielding.
Personally, I'm in the process of building a chassis from wood (it will look the best in my living room, aluminum or acrylic won't match the hardwoods and brick fireplace) but it will be completely lined to avoid interference from all the stray RF that penetrates everything and anything. Using metal will minimize the amount of interference.
There are no guarantees, so maybe the amp will sound beautiful, and you will never have a problem, but it is just as likely you will be left struggling against RFI...
(I work with RF every day, occasionally with audio circuits, and I just don't want to have to deal with it at home)
As far as the interconnects go, I've always been perfectly happy with Dayton stuff from Parts Express and some nice quality cable (nice quality meaning proper gauge, proper strand count, and proper shielding).
I would not be surprised if you found that metal works the best, because it provides some amount of shielding.
Personally, I'm in the process of building a chassis from wood (it will look the best in my living room, aluminum or acrylic won't match the hardwoods and brick fireplace) but it will be completely lined to avoid interference from all the stray RF that penetrates everything and anything. Using metal will minimize the amount of interference.
There are no guarantees, so maybe the amp will sound beautiful, and you will never have a problem, but it is just as likely you will be left struggling against RFI...
(I work with RF every day, occasionally with audio circuits, and I just don't want to have to deal with it at home)
As far as the interconnects go, I've always been perfectly happy with Dayton stuff from Parts Express and some nice quality cable (nice quality meaning proper gauge, proper strand count, and proper shielding).
http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=548
I found those but I have yet to find any copper content nice plugs for an ok price.
I have no CD player and my pre-amplifier and turntable do not emmit a lot of interpherance noise. I see your point in metal. Also though wood is suppose to sound best for chip amplifiers for the most part, from my reading. I am going to have some copper blocks in my amplifier so that will help with a few things. I I like the idea of some copper sheet to shield a little. Overall I think it might be ok to remmeber that even $1400 amplifiers do not usually have all the little tid bits I am putting into this, as well as you put into your projects. Hard not to want to go all out best on such an affordable project in comparrison to so much else out there.
I found those but I have yet to find any copper content nice plugs for an ok price.
I have no CD player and my pre-amplifier and turntable do not emmit a lot of interpherance noise. I see your point in metal. Also though wood is suppose to sound best for chip amplifiers for the most part, from my reading. I am going to have some copper blocks in my amplifier so that will help with a few things. I I like the idea of some copper sheet to shield a little. Overall I think it might be ok to remmeber that even $1400 amplifiers do not usually have all the little tid bits I am putting into this, as well as you put into your projects. Hard not to want to go all out best on such an affordable project in comparrison to so much else out there.
I get the bling factor of high end jacks and plugs, but as far as sound quality goes, remember that regardless of the expense or design of your connectors, the solder that you are using for the connections on your board are mostly lead and tin.Destroyer OS. said:
I personally would save the cash and go with the Dayton components (or the Exodus Jacks that you mentioned--those look pretty nice too). All of the Dayton hardware I have used has been inexpensive, well made, and has done the job quite well.
My favorite commentary on the subject is from Siegfried Linkwitz: "I have no problem, if people enjoy their music more, because it has passed through a certain interconnect, has been transformer balanced, amplified without feedback, processed through a reissued WW2 transmitter tube and sent to their speakers on litz wires of specific arrangement and purity, except that the money for these suggestions could have been spent on better speakers, for real improvements in accuracy of dynamic range and resolution. After all, the loudspeakers are by far the weakest link in the chain of components that are needed for sound reproduction."
4% silver solder...... WBT stuff.
I understand speakers are often a wink link but when I keep getting better sound via every thing else... You have to have the stuff to back up your speakers before hand is a rule of thumb quiet literally. I understand the point you make, I just.... Well I have noticed differences in all of these componets so it seems important to me to do as well as I can. I notice the difference between cable and material more then any thing else, has nothing to do with crimping technique etc so much in my very little experience.
I understand speakers are often a wink link but when I keep getting better sound via every thing else... You have to have the stuff to back up your speakers before hand is a rule of thumb quiet literally. I understand the point you make, I just.... Well I have noticed differences in all of these componets so it seems important to me to do as well as I can. I notice the difference between cable and material more then any thing else, has nothing to do with crimping technique etc so much in my very little experience.
Hey, don't let me stop you from getting the stuff if you can tell the difference and can afford the nice stuff! I happen to like the Dayton stuff from an economic and performance perspective and figured if you were asking for opinions I would share.Destroyer OS. said:
Looking back at the stuff you were going to get, none of it is approaching $2500 per foot for speaker cable silliness, and that is more what I was referencing. My whole take is that once you pass a certain baseline you will be in diminishing returns realms quite quickly. I think I was probably a little out in front of myself in terms of warning to strongly to use cheap components! I guess that was because I was pouring through the Madisound catalog and was looking at the Nordost cables. . . . Outrageous!!
(and what do you think the other 96% of the 4% silver solder is?
)
Hi,
I had just brought a set of Furutech FP=106R RCA plug in Hong Kong for my silver interconnect cable.As the audio result is excellent.I have the first choice in my mind is WBT RCA plug.After compare the structure and material for Furutech and WBT,I have change my mind the selection of Furutech. Some body said the audio effect the WBt will be better.Does anyone had compared both RCA plug already?
K.H.Cho
I had just brought a set of Furutech FP=106R RCA plug in Hong Kong for my silver interconnect cable.As the audio result is excellent.I have the first choice in my mind is WBT RCA plug.After compare the structure and material for Furutech and WBT,I have change my mind the selection of Furutech. Some body said the audio effect the WBt will be better.Does anyone had compared both RCA plug already?
K.H.Cho
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