JoeBob, DON'T DO THIS.AudioFreak said:
It will not give you any sonic benefit whatsoever, and an error in wiring could cause a flash that could cause injury, etc. In addition, some duplex receptacles are wired so that the Hot wires come from different breakers; conceivably, this could be from opposite sides of a 240VAC dual-phase feed, so even proper wiring on your part could cause a short circuit.
If you want to feed your amplifier from two independent 15A breakers, call an electrician and have two receptacles run from separate breakers, then use two transformers to keep the circuits separate. But it will not improve your amplifier one bit.
In Canada, Hot is the smaller of the two slots (black wire), Neutral is the wider one (white wire), and Ground is the D-shaped one (green wire). But please get some qualified help with this part.
If you want to improve your AC supply, get a powerline conditioner/filter box external to your circuitry. Make sure it's UL or CSA approved.
Ok, well after your warning, I guess it's not worth the bother, having to get a professional electrician do it, for if it's that dangerous, I'll stay away from it.
As to Jamie F, I'll use a transformer i nthe soft-start circuit, and since my power suply will be in a different box then my amp modules, I'll put the soft-start circuit there, so the magnetic interference shouldn't be a problem...
As to Jamie F, I'll use a transformer i nthe soft-start circuit, and since my power suply will be in a different box then my amp modules, I'll put the soft-start circuit there, so the magnetic interference shouldn't be a problem...
AudioFreak
Thanks for the detail on triacs - points noted.
JoeBob
Please find attached below a layout for the soft-start circuit using veroboard. Basically, I have doubled up Rod’s circuit, and used a different RC combination to get switch-on timing correct.
When you switch on the 12V, after about 1 second RL1B switches mains to the load resistors, at which point your power supply caps will start to charge (my rails come up to 32V in about 3 seconds). RL1A switches on about 5 seconds after RL1B, shorting the resistors. They both switch off rapidly when 12V is removed.
The component designators (R1, C1, etc) tally with those in Rod’s figure 2. The A parts relate to the resistor bypass relay, and the B parts to the mains switch relay. Make sure you get the diodes and electrolytics the right way round.
Components are as follows:
R1A: 133k
R1B: 220k
R2A, R2B: 22k
R3: 2k2
LK1: wire link
D5A, D5B, D6A, D6B: 1N4004
Q1A, Q1B: BC558B
Q2A, Q2B: MTP3055V
C2A: 100uF 25V electrolytic cap
C2B: 10uF 25V electrolytic cap
RL1A, RL1B: 12Vdc relay (see below)
Veroboard or equivalent
Load resistors: 2x 100R 150W aluminum cased wirewound in parallel (see below)
The mechanical mains switch is not necessary, but is an additional safety precaution. You'd normally leave this switched on.
The relay must have sufficient contact current rating, and if you use a different one, check the coil resistance, as this may require a modification if much different to the relay I’ve used (220R).
My relays: Finder 45.61, contacts 250V 16A, SPNO, coil 12Vdc 220R, spade terminals / PCB mount, US$3.50 each.
My load resistors: Arcol HS150, 100R, 150W heatsunk / 55W no heatsink, US$10 each.
Make sure all mains wiring is secure mechanically prior to soldering, don't use too much solder, and insulate everything well.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the detail on triacs - points noted.
JoeBob
Please find attached below a layout for the soft-start circuit using veroboard. Basically, I have doubled up Rod’s circuit, and used a different RC combination to get switch-on timing correct.
When you switch on the 12V, after about 1 second RL1B switches mains to the load resistors, at which point your power supply caps will start to charge (my rails come up to 32V in about 3 seconds). RL1A switches on about 5 seconds after RL1B, shorting the resistors. They both switch off rapidly when 12V is removed.
The component designators (R1, C1, etc) tally with those in Rod’s figure 2. The A parts relate to the resistor bypass relay, and the B parts to the mains switch relay. Make sure you get the diodes and electrolytics the right way round.
Components are as follows:
R1A: 133k
R1B: 220k
R2A, R2B: 22k
R3: 2k2
LK1: wire link
D5A, D5B, D6A, D6B: 1N4004
Q1A, Q1B: BC558B
Q2A, Q2B: MTP3055V
C2A: 100uF 25V electrolytic cap
C2B: 10uF 25V electrolytic cap
RL1A, RL1B: 12Vdc relay (see below)
Veroboard or equivalent
Load resistors: 2x 100R 150W aluminum cased wirewound in parallel (see below)
The mechanical mains switch is not necessary, but is an additional safety precaution. You'd normally leave this switched on.
The relay must have sufficient contact current rating, and if you use a different one, check the coil resistance, as this may require a modification if much different to the relay I’ve used (220R).
My relays: Finder 45.61, contacts 250V 16A, SPNO, coil 12Vdc 220R, spade terminals / PCB mount, US$3.50 each.
My load resistors: Arcol HS150, 100R, 150W heatsunk / 55W no heatsink, US$10 each.
Make sure all mains wiring is secure mechanically prior to soldering, don't use too much solder, and insulate everything well.
Hope this helps.
Attachments
Thanks PaulB,
I'll remember that ... In Australia where i live you can usually do such a thing without too much risk of blowing things up....
I also realise my earlier post was in error now
What I should have written was run 2 wall sockets to that case then inside the box connect the ground terminals then feed each transformer from a seperate Hot and Neutral line.
Though over in America and Canada i dont know if this is a safe practice either.
I'll remember that ... In Australia where i live you can usually do such a thing without too much risk of blowing things up....
I also realise my earlier post was in error now
What I should have written was run 2 wall sockets to that case then inside the box connect the ground terminals then feed each transformer from a seperate Hot and Neutral line.
Though over in America and Canada i dont know if this is a safe practice either.
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