I agree, but then you have to move them, and somehow, it doesn't seem like quite such a good idea.
Now I'm kind of/seriously considering saving up for the G10 necessary to re-make the cabs of my existing speakers. Reason being I need to lighten them up as much as possible to make them as topple-proof as possible on their future stands (baby on the way).
2 Plys of G10 would make a very light, absurdly strong box, I'll have to find a properties PDF on the stuff to find the most effective bonding agent.
I was originally going to just remake them with 1/2" birch (currently 3/4" spruce) but the weight savings wouldn't be staggering and the loss of rigidity would be appreciable, I could beef up the internal bracing but the added material would further negate the weight savings...
2 Plys of G10 would make a very light, absurdly strong box, I'll have to find a properties PDF on the stuff to find the most effective bonding agent.
I was originally going to just remake them with 1/2" birch (currently 3/4" spruce) but the weight savings wouldn't be staggering and the loss of rigidity would be appreciable, I could beef up the internal bracing but the added material would further negate the weight savings...
Making the base of the stand very heavy (eg full of lead shot) would be far more effective at reducing the potential to topple than lighter speaker enclosures atop light stands.
For much less money and better performance use two pieces of 1/8" "Aircraft" plywood. A frame inside and filled with foam will give you something still 3/4" thick but a whole lot stronger and less resonant. Also depending on the box a few internal cross braces help a lot.
Fiberglass does have it's place. In pro speakers it has been used to keep concert boxes under 150 lb.s.
I've got some chunks of steel from metal supermarkets to build in to the bases already, planning on a hollow rectangular tube of aluminum with two AT rods within holding the two mdf ends together(one very small (top) one very large and full of steel). Probably going to fill the column with expanding foam when all is said and done. But the speakers are still hefty, and if I can make them lighter, and that much less likely to land on my baby I shall.
Where does one acquire aircraft plywood?? I'm liking the sound of that.
Well you could visit an aircraft museum at night! I get it from a supplier that normally furnishes wood and hardware to the folks who make kitchen cabinets. Around here they have a minimum order but it is only around $50. It is still used for drawer bottoms (too thin for my use as that) and dust dividers. Of course you never know someone may still be trying to build an airplane.
I have found two types are made. One is cross laminated the other is not and is intended for bending or curved surfaces. I am pretty sure you know which type you want. But do consider building a curved box!
I have found two types are made. One is cross laminated the other is not and is intended for bending or curved surfaces. I am pretty sure you know which type you want. But do consider building a curved box!
For moondoog 55
For me it'isnt possible to build a very very good playwood without a hight frequency presse machine. It's very difficult to have a good repartition of the phénolique glue and the minimum presseur for have a very good playwood is 40 t / cm2. M. HIRAGA told about that and i make this experience with my ONKEN 360 cabinet. I used a special plywood.
25 layers of 1 mm with a presseur of 45 t / cm2 with hight frequency machine. weigt 1.8 t au m3. iT's a super plywood without low vibration and with a cristal sound. But it's very very expensive
For me it'isnt possible to build a very very good playwood without a hight frequency presse machine. It's very difficult to have a good repartition of the phénolique glue and the minimum presseur for have a very good playwood is 40 t / cm2. M. HIRAGA told about that and i make this experience with my ONKEN 360 cabinet. I used a special plywood.
25 layers of 1 mm with a presseur of 45 t / cm2 with hight frequency machine. weigt 1.8 t au m3. iT's a super plywood without low vibration and with a cristal sound. But it's very very expensive
If the reduction of risk to an infant is the main issue, then just about any bookshelf speaker that fell on one will cause injury.
Years ago when I shared houses, I had some Proac tablettes on stands with a very heavy base, maybe 30kg, and almost an entire pack of Blutak/speaker between them and the top plate. Almost all of the weight was in the box base at the floor and was sand/shotgun lead. Even an adult hitting the stands barely caused movement and the blutak wouldn't allow the speaker to move - no baby/toddler would be able to budge it. Screwing it directly to the stand would have been easier but I didn't want to damage the veneer.
I tried to source the damn stuff a couple years ago (was thinking of making a sessy plinth for an sl1200) but couldn't find a (small scale) supplier.
Could find loads of butcher blocks and whatnot but no ply.
Back the stands for a mo, I'm going to put threaded inserts into the speakers so I can anchor them to the stands. These are going to be immovable objects I assure you.
I have never built anything with bamboo ply either. But from the description, it is similar to what you guys are thinking. It is built using strips woven and then glued in a cross pattern. A manufacturer claims that it is twice as hard as red oak.
"Bamboo plywood is manufactured by laminating sheets of woven bamboo strips to form an very strong plywood panel. It consist of multiple sheets of woven bamboo strips board arrange in cross pattern to increase the strength of the plywood. Use them just like the regular construction plywood, put them on wall, roof and making furniture. "
"Bamboo plywood is manufactured by laminating sheets of woven bamboo strips to form an very strong plywood panel. It consist of multiple sheets of woven bamboo strips board arrange in cross pattern to increase the strength of the plywood. Use them just like the regular construction plywood, put them on wall, roof and making furniture. "
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