Project Ryu - DIY Field Coil Loudspeaker

Jump to Latest
M

misok

Member
Joined 2012
tinitus said:
curved steel strings might be great :scratch2:

did you build the one in the picture ? ... or for inspiration ?
Click to expand...

oh yes, just inspiration. picture is a creation of Be Yamamura from the 90s. Looks like the exactly set up pressure of circular steel strings from 3 sides could do the centering job well. if the excursion of the diaphragm is minimal, string may not be even attached to the coil former..
 
T

tinitus

Ex-Moderator R.I.P.
Joined 2005
misok said:
... string may not be even attached to the coil former..
Click to expand...

but may better be :p

here is a quick drawing of the curved string idea
 

Attachments

  • spider.png
    spider.png
    4.4 KB · Views: 699
M

misok

Member
Joined 2012
tinitus said:
but may better be :p

here is a quick drawing of the curved string idea
Click to expand...

i imagined a little notch in the coil former rather than a drop of glue but it surely can be attached intelligently.

ad visualisation - yes, something simple. (sharing a screw for 2 strings can make fine tuning harder, but that is just detail )

now im trying to find the right way to stretch the leather surround pripr to glueing to frame, i hope this is the only way (Rullit) http://i767.photobucket.com/albums/xx314/rullit/LR-1/IMG08824.jpg?t=1312225692
 
T

tinitus

Ex-Moderator R.I.P.
Joined 2005
or the proven and very simple method ... use fine threads
silk, chinese thread, or just any suitable type sewing thread

mount all strings so they touches the voice coil
allign the voice coil in the gap
then glue all joints between threads and voice coil former
and its fixed

and especially with this type of driver that barely moves, it would be near perfect
 
M

misok

Member
Joined 2012
tinitus said:
or the proven and very simple method ... use fine threads
silk, chinese thread, or just any suitable type sewing thread

mount all strings so they touches the voice coil
allign the voice coil in the gap
then glue all joints between threads and voice coil former
and its fixed

and especially with this type of driver that barely moves, it would be near perfect
Click to expand...

sorry im not getting it .. do you mean adjusting the cone height-wise in the process of glueing the surround to the basket? (while side-wise its done by the shim inserted in the gap)

i can't imagine the treads you mentioned (i'm just beginning with all this)
 
T

tinitus

Ex-Moderator R.I.P.
Joined 2005
you really do not want a design that needs adjustments

try imagine poking around 'in there' with a tool :eek:
all aspects of ongoing adjusting are simply problems
do it the industrial way, mount it, allign, and glue
if it needs readjustment, rebuild it

as long as we are talking fullrange drivers, with care, training, and experience, I reckon you will be able to improve cheap drivers to achieve maybe 90% of the best available, or maybe even with luck do better than most ... (but that is off topic)
 
Magnasanti

Magnasanti

Member
Joined 2012
tinitus said:
you really do not want a design that needs
as long as we are talking fullrange drivers, with care, training, and experience, I reckon you will be able to improve cheap drivers to achieve maybe 90% of the best available, or maybe even with luck do better than most ... (but that is off topic)
Click to expand...
Idk man you can only really get so far from improving an existing driver let alone a cheap driver. Though there is no doubt there can be an improvement.
 
M

misok

Member
Joined 2012
tinitus said:
could be much more than just improving it
only use original chassis, magnet system, and voice coil, and change the rest ;)
Click to expand...

this is what i have in my mind for a long time, but it's so rarely mentioned on the web, compared to other audio related activities - i can't find any info on making cones, surrounds, spiders .. just generic commercial recone-stuff. i know i have to learn mostly by myself, but i appreciate anything i find (like this thread, even if it lacks basic since people here are experienced). thanks again and sorry for off-topic.
 
4

454Casull

Member
Joined 2004
454Casull said:
Perhaps an ideal solution is to use a helical double-start or triple-start machined spring as a spider replacement. They can be designed for low spring rate in the axial direction, which is nice for getting your desired Fs. At the same time, they can also have high spring rate in the radial direction, which is great for centering. Finally, they have no stiction which is a problem in slide-type assemblies (e.g. Adire Audio Parthenon).
Click to expand...
Like this:
ABS019scbig170713074233compressionspring.JPG
 
H

Hentai

Member
Joined 2006
projectryu.com
454Casull said:
You may find that it is difficult to get the accuracy you want due to the support material that will be built into the design. Take care during the support addition stage and you should be OK.

EDIT: You should remove those sharp contours. They are stress risers.
Click to expand...

Frank40 said:
Nice spider.... but I'm sure it is hard to make, if you make it of plastic I think it will break over time.

I like the fact that the areal is small this will produce less sound and interfere less with the sound that the is cone making. I am still confused to what kind of spider I will be using, I need a very soft one due to the low cone mass.

Here is a picture of my new wizzer, the weight is a bit under 100 micro grams, in fact I can't measure it on my scale sense the resolution is 0,1 gram.

Take care
Click to expand...

Of course what i presented are just conceptual renderings. Im discussing the material and 3D printer limitations with the people operating that machinery in order to get what i want.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom