Could you please try to measure the voltages on pin 8 and pin 18 of the TC2000?
It is not so likely that the lack of loads at the outputs would affect the status of the TC2000. First when the TC2000 seems to work we look at the TP2050s.
The white thermal glue may be possible to remove with a bit of "wasbenzine" and a cotton-stick.
The 12V battery, is that a battery with a good current rating (so the voltage does not drop when loaded)?
It is not so likely that the lack of loads at the outputs would affect the status of the TC2000. First when the TC2000 seems to work we look at the TP2050s.
The white thermal glue may be possible to remove with a bit of "wasbenzine" and a cotton-stick.
The 12V battery, is that a battery with a good current rating (so the voltage does not drop when loaded)?
The fuel trick worked: Its the TP2050.
Then the measurements. I measured everything compared to the ground (the negative pole of the battery). First I measured the unchanged situation:
pin 8: 4,32V
pin 18: 0V
ping 19: 2,64V
pin 24: 0,24V
Then I did this with pin 24 grounded. When I measured 8 the hmute LED suddenly went off. I was considering what to do and then I smelled some ironing flavour. I was afraid of the chips, but then I discovered the output resistors (8 ohm, 10W) were burning hot. I disconnected the amplifier. When the resistors were cooled down I tried to repeat the situation but nothing happened.
I found the datasheet of the TP2050 but how do I recognize the orientation of the chip? The TC2000 has a convenient dot, but the TP2050 misses this.
To start with the easy question: (See page 4 of the TP2050 datasheet) You have a corner of the body that is cut, this is where you have pin 1.
Pin 8 is high indicating either a mute situation or a fault. You have pulled pin 24 to GND so you have asked for "un-mute" and you did what you could to make it operate. Another possible error is if the over-/under-voltage setting resistor (pin 19) is chosen such that it detects your supply voltage (12V) as an under-voltage and therefore mutes the system. 12V is in the low end.
I believe you have a 19V supply as well?
My suggestion is that you check with 12V supply and no loads at the outputs if any of the pins on the TC2000 have a strange voltage compared to the use described in the datasheet.
Then you try quickly, with dummy loads at the outputs, what the reaction is with the 19V supply and pin 24 pulled low (does the mute lamp go OFF?)
Pin 8 is high indicating either a mute situation or a fault. You have pulled pin 24 to GND so you have asked for "un-mute" and you did what you could to make it operate. Another possible error is if the over-/under-voltage setting resistor (pin 19) is chosen such that it detects your supply voltage (12V) as an under-voltage and therefore mutes the system. 12V is in the low end.
I believe you have a 19V supply as well?
My suggestion is that you check with 12V supply and no loads at the outputs if any of the pins on the TC2000 have a strange voltage compared to the use described in the datasheet.
Then you try quickly, with dummy loads at the outputs, what the reaction is with the 19V supply and pin 24 pulled low (does the mute lamp go OFF?)
Last edited:
I tried it with my 24V supply but the led still burns. I tried some measurements on the TP2050 but the pins are so tiny that I hardly can see what I measure. I am afraid I have to surrender and spend my time on other things. Anyway, thanks for your suggestions.
Heating issue with AA-AB32971
I have an AA-AB32971. If I listen music in loud volume the amplifier is getting hot vey quickly. The amplifier sound is very clean but the problem is that its heated up very quickly. I am using lithium ion 27v 8amp for power supply and 80watt per channel dayton audio speaker. What should I do? Should I change the decoupling capacitors? What value of capacitor should I use? Please suggest.
I have an AA-AB32971. If I listen music in loud volume the amplifier is getting hot vey quickly. The amplifier sound is very clean but the problem is that its heated up very quickly. I am using lithium ion 27v 8amp for power supply and 80watt per channel dayton audio speaker. What should I do? Should I change the decoupling capacitors? What value of capacitor should I use? Please suggest.
To change the capacitors will not reduce the heat. I don't know which impedance the speakers have, that can change which of the possible choices work best. When in doubt you can ofc combine them.
To reduce the heat, there are 3 options:
1. Reduce the power supply voltage to ~22-24V, esp. if your speakers are 4 Ohm or lower impedance.
2. Change the heatsink and/or the fan. If the heatsink is big enough, you can get away without a fan, though I use a 'silent' fan (which isn't audible) on a big heatsink. I reduced the fan speed even more by lowering its voltage (~800 rpm). The lower voltage doesn't work with PWM fans.
3. Put it in a different case with a big silent fan but with air/cooling tunnel. Depending on how it's mounted, the airflow can reduce the heat a lot more than using it completely without case.
I am using 4ohm woofer and 4 ohm tweeter with a 100 w crossover. Previously I was using a TPA3116d2 duel chip 100+100 watt amp with the same power source. But the TPA sounds harsh and the bass is not that punchy. Then I heard of this board and in some forum they said T-amp sounds much better than TPA3116. So I bought this one. IT sounds much more better than TPA3116 but only problem is the heating issue. But my earlier TPA amp works fine. Actually I am using these Amps for a 200w bluetooth boombox. So I can't use any SMPS for power supply source. And one more important thing is that the Sure audio T-amp is using 63v 470uf *6 capacitor as a decoupling caps. Which is clearly way too low for a 200w amps. In an article I read the am amplifier with inadequate capacitor runs for long time at its peak power, then those caps used to be running out of their stored power and then the amp drains power form the source directly. I am not sure if it is true or not but I am planning to change the caps to 35v 2200uf *6. Because this circuit only needs 24v dc. There is no need of using 63v caps. So, if there is any suggestion please reply.
That article surely spoke about linear power supplies and that's correct - but for AC 50/60Hz ONLY. Switching power supplies work with a much higher frequency and that means the capacitors only have to buffer the voltage for a fraction of the time, which means they are perfectly fine with a fraction of the capacitance. If you use a transformator and bridge rectifier (or in other words, a linear power supply), that's too low but with a switching mode power supply (SMPS) you need much less capacitance but at the same time a low ESR (equivalent series resistance) capacitors.
For battery powered boomboxes the needed capacitance depends on how much current the battery can deliver or how much (long) the voltage sags. Usually there's no need for an army of capacitors nor do they need a low ESR rating, unless you're using a DC/DC (buck) converter.
As I said above, there's no need to swap them. The higher voltage rating is not needed but it doesn't harm in any way. If you feel the urge to swap them, that's fine but it's not necessary unless you are using a linear power supply.
I am explaining about my whole circuit diagram.
1. My battery pack is 5s 2p lifepo4 battery. Max 17.5v 12 ah.
2. I use a 400w boost converter to boost it to 24v.
3. that 24v goes to that amplifier aa-ab32971.
4. From there the output goes to 100w passive crossover.
5. From the crossover the output line divided to 2 line. One for woofer & another for tweeter. And I am using 40w 4ohm woofer and 20w 4 ohm tweeter.
The problem is that when I were using TPA3116d2 amp in the same circuit everything was working fine. The amp is also 200w output power. But when I am using the new amp,after 30 to 40 minutes of playing music the amp suddenly shutdown by itself. And when I check the temperature is very hot. I am just a learner in this audio/ amplifier thing. I made this blutooth boombox
inspired by a youtube video
. But it seems after changing the amp it getting worse. Please if you have any idea how to solve the problem ,please suggest.
You can check this website. DIYBudgetAudio.com
1. My battery pack is 5s 2p lifepo4 battery. Max 17.5v 12 ah.
2. I use a 400w boost converter to boost it to 24v.
3. that 24v goes to that amplifier aa-ab32971.
4. From there the output goes to 100w passive crossover.
5. From the crossover the output line divided to 2 line. One for woofer & another for tweeter. And I am using 40w 4ohm woofer and 20w 4 ohm tweeter.
The problem is that when I were using TPA3116d2 amp in the same circuit everything was working fine. The amp is also 200w output power. But when I am using the new amp,after 30 to 40 minutes of playing music the amp suddenly shutdown by itself. And when I check the temperature is very hot. I am just a learner in this audio/ amplifier thing. I made this blutooth boombox
inspired by a youtube video
. But it seems after changing the amp it getting worse. Please if you have any idea how to solve the problem ,please suggest.You can check this website. DIYBudgetAudio.com
The TPA3116D2 doesn't reach 200W, in PBTL it can reach 100W but that's only on 2 Ohm. There are amps which got two TPAs (each per channel or one for a sub and two sat) but you still only get the power at 2 Ohm. That means on 4 Ohm you only had ~50W.
But when I am using the new amp,after 30 to 40 minutes of playing music the amp suddenly shutdown by itself. And when I check the temperature is very hot. I am just a learner in this audio/ amplifier thing.
I made this blutooth boombox
inspired by a youtube video
The shutdown protects the amp from thermal overload and is normal. But that means it either there isn't any (fresh) air circulation or the amplifier gets heated up by something else like sunlight, the battery, the buck converter etc. It is also possible the buck converter folds down because of the high current, that may result in a quite unstable voltage and voltage spikes, which could also lead to an amplifier shutdown because of its protection.
You didn't mount the amplifier board within a sealed enclosure? You should check if there's a big enough opening below the amp and above so the air can circulate. To mount the board vertically will also help, the capacitors should forming vertical line to allow the best airflow.