hello guys,
recently i got some SSOP to DIP converter intending to start with some audio DAC projects using PCM1730 and AD1853 (you can see the attached picture)
I used the normal soldering iron to mount these SMD chips adding disoxidant paste. I'm not sure if it's right or not, or maybe the too much heat provoked damage to the chips, the DACs never function as they should be after I connected them to the circuit. As I turned on the power I could hear more noises and hisses than the sound, and it was intermittent and low. After a few seconds there is no sound but hisses and the chip started to become hot (but not exageratedly hot), no smoke no short, but still no sound
.
I don't want to surrender in front of the problem. I tried checking many time the connection but nothing
.
Can somebody give me suggestions and helps?? Thanks in advance.
Mincy
recently i got some SSOP to DIP converter intending to start with some audio DAC projects using PCM1730 and AD1853 (you can see the attached picture)
I used the normal soldering iron to mount these SMD chips adding disoxidant paste. I'm not sure if it's right or not, or maybe the too much heat provoked damage to the chips, the DACs never function as they should be after I connected them to the circuit. As I turned on the power I could hear more noises and hisses than the sound, and it was intermittent and low. After a few seconds there is no sound but hisses and the chip started to become hot (but not exageratedly hot), no smoke no short, but still no sound
.I don't want to surrender in front of the problem. I tried checking many time the connection but nothing
.Can somebody give me suggestions and helps?? Thanks in advance.
Mincy
Attachments
Re: re.....
have a look at
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=28137&perpage=15&pagenumber=7
post 92 and 93 hope it helps you
wmincy said:
have a look at
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=28137&perpage=15&pagenumber=7
post 92 and 93 hope it helps you
If you don't want to buy a whole gallon, get a flux pen.
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Criteria?Ref=150265&Site=US&Cat=32637666
http://www.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Criteria?Ref=150265&Site=US&Cat=32637666
hey 5th element,
it was really lucky for me to find the converter at a very low price (around £á3 including shipment). I found it in a japanese web site, here is the site: http://www.nomura-e.co.jp/henkan.html
Just deal with Ms Yuko Nomura, she is responsable for sales.
Leon, Jocko, which type of soldering iron you are actually using for SMD chips? can you suggest me for i'm going to buy one, thks
Mark, by your experience, those SMDs are burnt? Isn't it hard to have SMD soldered with a lower temperature? thks
it was really lucky for me to find the converter at a very low price (around £á3 including shipment). I found it in a japanese web site, here is the site: http://www.nomura-e.co.jp/henkan.html
Just deal with Ms Yuko Nomura, she is responsable for sales.
Leon, Jocko, which type of soldering iron you are actually using for SMD chips? can you suggest me for i'm going to buy one, thks
Mark, by your experience, those SMDs are burnt? Isn't it hard to have SMD soldered with a lower temperature? thks
Amazing how often this comes up...
I wrote a huge article in the wiki about SMD sodering and rework. There's tons of detail there about everything from flux through what type of iron and tip to use etc, along with some alternative suggestions. Unfortunately, all the photos ended up as links instead of being right in with the text
. Check it out: http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/index.php?page=SurfaceMountDeviceRework
The most important tips are to use plenty of flux (doesn't have to be water soluble) and to apply tiny amounts of fine-gauge solder to the iron, not directly to the pins (as you might be accustomed to doing with through-hole stuff). The reason for this is that the solder itself is flux-core, and you need to feed the flux right into a through-hole joint before it burns off. With liquid flux on the board, you can put a small bead of solder onto the iron, and not worry about losing the flux. Last, of course, is to do as Jocko suggested and 'tack' solder two opposite corner pins to get the alignment right. Once it's aligned, then it's unbelievably easy to solder the remaining pins.
I wrote a huge article in the wiki about SMD sodering and rework. There's tons of detail there about everything from flux through what type of iron and tip to use etc, along with some alternative suggestions. Unfortunately, all the photos ended up as links instead of being right in with the text
. Check it out: http://www.diyaudio.com/wiki/index.php?page=SurfaceMountDeviceReworkThe most important tips are to use plenty of flux (doesn't have to be water soluble) and to apply tiny amounts of fine-gauge solder to the iron, not directly to the pins (as you might be accustomed to doing with through-hole stuff). The reason for this is that the solder itself is flux-core, and you need to feed the flux right into a through-hole joint before it burns off. With liquid flux on the board, you can put a small bead of solder onto the iron, and not worry about losing the flux. Last, of course, is to do as Jocko suggested and 'tack' solder two opposite corner pins to get the alignment right. Once it's aligned, then it's unbelievably easy to solder the remaining pins.
Toaster Oven:
I’ve often wanted to try this method:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=344124#post344124
But oddly never seem to have an old toaster oven around.
A little practice, a little patience, a lot less Starbucks… I’ve only done a few, but yup, it can be done.
I’ve often wanted to try this method:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=344124#post344124
But oddly never seem to have an old toaster oven around.
A little practice, a little patience, a lot less Starbucks… I’ve only done a few, but yup, it can be done.
Jocko Homo said:
I thought that was my line. I faked the OCS eye-exam (actually Navy) in 1971 by memorizing the chart, but they finally caught up with me just before the program started.
If not using the "toaster oven" method, I use a 7 watt soldering pencil. Place a small tack of solder on one PCB pad, hold the IC with tweezers and attach just that one pad. You can then gently correct the position.
Soldering is easy, it's desoldering which can get tricky. Helps to have a couple different sizes of solder-braid.
I could not fake it.......
"Read the top line, son."
"I'm waitnig for you to put one up."
"Gimme those glasses that you have on.........."
(Dramatic pause)
"OK.....can you see anything now?"
"Uh.......might be an 'E'.........or an 'M'........I dunno."
"Get on to the next exam station.........where do they find these ROTC kids?"
Yeah.....I flunked. Legally blind, to the Army, that is.
Jocko
"Read the top line, son."
"I'm waitnig for you to put one up."
"Gimme those glasses that you have on.........."
(Dramatic pause)
"OK.....can you see anything now?"
"Uh.......might be an 'E'.........or an 'M'........I dunno."
"Get on to the next exam station.........where do they find these ROTC kids?"
Yeah.....I flunked. Legally blind, to the Army, that is.
Jocko
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