Replace all of them, clamp all components tightly to the heatsink and insert a 10-15 amp fuse in the B+ line before applying power.
You need to insert some sort of insulator between the clip-on heatsinks or otherwise make sure that they cannot make contact. Apply heatsink compound between the clip-on sinks and the transistors.
You need to insert some sort of insulator between the clip-on heatsinks or otherwise make sure that they cannot make contact. Apply heatsink compound between the clip-on sinks and the transistors.
Not to hijack but my amp went to inoperative and was for the voltage regulators. I did what Mr Babin said but be absolutely sure that the solder in the B649 is good. I was having erratic -15v readings and rechecked everything with no luck, so i desoldered my mod (as you can see in my thread, i put the voltage regulators directly to the heatsink), removed all the old solder, resolded them and reinstalled everything and the amp was working as normal. Note that i reused the old parts because where i live i never found replacements for b649,i would like to do that in the future.
I have learned from this amp a lot!
I have learned from this amp a lot!
Status update. Got Q15 & Q16 turned around and installed heat sinks. Powered up amp had proper voltage at +/-15 volt pins. Hooked speaker to amp with audio input through RCA connection. Worked like a champ. Thank you again Perry for all of your help. I will remember you if I ever have amp problems in the future.
Will let you know how it works when reinstalled in vehicle and hooked to subwoofers.
Will let you know how it works when reinstalled in vehicle and hooked to subwoofers.
Be sure to reinstall properly the amp when you are going to wire with the woofers. I did not install mine properly (loose conection in the B+) and the fuses got melted. My amp is still working right now, i had mine powering two CVR´s 12" 8 ohm each, bridged. Sounds very good.
Glad that everything works now.
Glad that everything works now.
I placed the amp back on the bench test power this morniing with no audio iut or output connected. When powered up it does not go out of protection mode into green light power. I can also hear a ticking sound about every five seconds coming from near the power supply side of the amp.
What should i test next?
What should i test next?
I have checked all transistors and they appear to be in the proper position. I removed board from heatsink and inspected all solder points and connections. Nothing appeared out of place or burnt. No visable damage to insulators. Checked vehicle with nothing testing out bad. Hooked up different amp in vehicle and it worked without incident.
Kicker amp still remains in protection mode when bench testing powered up. Clicking noise from power input side of board continues. As stated before clicks about every five seconds.
Unsure of where I went wrong. Any help on the next step would be much appreciated.
Kicker amp still remains in protection mode when bench testing powered up. Clicking noise from power input side of board continues. As stated before clicks about every five seconds.
Unsure of where I went wrong. Any help on the next step would be much appreciated.
The transistors do not get hot.
When the amp is clicking the right side audio output will start at .100 dc volts and it slowly climbs up to .316 then the click and it drops back down to .100, and back up to
.316 until the next click.
Left side audio is lower than right in dc voltage and it seems to stay stable.
When the amp is clicking the right side audio output will start at .100 dc volts and it slowly climbs up to .316 then the click and it drops back down to .100, and back up to
.316 until the next click.
Left side audio is lower than right in dc voltage and it seems to stay stable.
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