Hi Goodguys,
Thanks for the replies. Much Appreciated. Actually, those same two Panasonics were the ones I mentioned in my previous posts. I was considering the ECG series ones which seem to be rated highly by many here. Those are 50mm in diameter, so I could mount them upside down using the 2 inch clamps I have. I didn't plan on everytrhing being on one board, just in one case. I thought I could build a dual mono power supply (2 transformers, two bridges and two sets of filter caps) in the center of the case in it's own shielded compartment, with the amplifier boards at the left & right sides of the case. The power supply would just be hardwired with heavy wire and solder, no pcb. I would keep all the mains related stuff (switch, fuses, soft start,etc) towards the cener of the case with the rca inputs and speaker binding posts near the edges for as much physical separation as possible.
Best Wishes,
Bob
Thanks for the replies. Much Appreciated. Actually, those same two Panasonics were the ones I mentioned in my previous posts. I was considering the ECG series ones which seem to be rated highly by many here. Those are 50mm in diameter, so I could mount them upside down using the 2 inch clamps I have. I didn't plan on everytrhing being on one board, just in one case. I thought I could build a dual mono power supply (2 transformers, two bridges and two sets of filter caps) in the center of the case in it's own shielded compartment, with the amplifier boards at the left & right sides of the case. The power supply would just be hardwired with heavy wire and solder, no pcb. I would keep all the mains related stuff (switch, fuses, soft start,etc) towards the cener of the case with the rca inputs and speaker binding posts near the edges for as much physical separation as possible.
Best Wishes,
Bob
caps
Hi. It all sounds very good. There is not much i could add to that except perhaps the possibility of bypass capacitors, 1000uf then a small film between 1uf and 0.1uf wima are good for this paper in oil are the best this is called cascade bypassing, ptfe teflon type silver wire for speaker and power connections.
Best luck with your project, do let me know how you get along or if you have any problems.
Hi. It all sounds very good. There is not much i could add to that except perhaps the possibility of bypass capacitors, 1000uf then a small film between 1uf and 0.1uf wima are good for this paper in oil are the best this is called cascade bypassing, ptfe teflon type silver wire for speaker and power connections.
Best luck with your project, do let me know how you get along or if you have any problems.
I've had trouble with loose wires melting off snap-in cap terminals and popping up (to the metal cover, big flash and blown transistors). That is why I put the snap in caps on a lexan board I saw out of stock from the lumberyard. I drill holes for the cap terminals, put the buss wire under them, and clench the snap in terminals over the bus wire, then solder. Then I strain relieve the bus wire by looping it once through the lexan before running off to the load. If you only have one cap per drain wire, at least put a plastic board over the snap in cap and loop the wire through one hole before running out to the load. I glue the cap to the terminal board with silicon seal or wallboard adhesive. Screw terminals caps are 10x what snap in caps cost, so I'm not doing that again. My subassembly with two pieces of lexan top and bottom makes a nice sandwich to bolt to the case and hold snap in caps stable in a PA amps that gets carried a lot.
Glad you ignored dreadpirate's suggestion of surplus e-caps. I buy surplus transistors, hardware, switches etc, even from apex, but the rubber seal in e-caps gives them a shelf life that only nitrogen packing would extend. Life is too short to use old stock e-caps for anything but temporary experiments.
Glad you ignored dreadpirate's suggestion of surplus e-caps. I buy surplus transistors, hardware, switches etc, even from apex, but the rubber seal in e-caps gives them a shelf life that only nitrogen packing would extend. Life is too short to use old stock e-caps for anything but temporary experiments.
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Hi All, I was jut wondering if anyone could give me some feedback on what their thoughs on these capacitors were.
There are -: KEMET Aluminium Electrolytic Capacitor 22000μF 100 V dc 66mm Can - Screw Terminals, Radial ALS31 Series
ALS31A223MF100 | KEMET Aluminium Electrolytic Capacitor 22000μF 100 V dc 66mm Can - Screw Terminals, Radial ALS31 Series | KEMET
Thanks
Stuart
There are -: KEMET Aluminium Electrolytic Capacitor 22000μF 100 V dc 66mm Can - Screw Terminals, Radial ALS31 Series
ALS31A223MF100 | KEMET Aluminium Electrolytic Capacitor 22000μF 100 V dc 66mm Can - Screw Terminals, Radial ALS31 Series | KEMET
Thanks
Stuart
Hi. Kemet are decent, it all depends on how they are going to be used and in what equipment, the impedance changes at different frequencies.
So, where are these caps going to be used, power supply? Audio Equipment?
Are there any caps already on the board which will be in parallel to these Kemets once installed?
Which capacitors are these kemets going to be replacing, are you changing the values or keeping to stock
So, where are these caps going to be used, power supply? Audio Equipment?
Are there any caps already on the board which will be in parallel to these Kemets once installed?
Which capacitors are these kemets going to be replacing, are you changing the values or keeping to stock
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Hi, u1022186.
Per original post you were looking for 10,000uF 100v electrolytics.
How about the Panasonic ECET2AA103FA (40mm D)? OK, they are snap-ins but they are very good caps. The space between between the clamp and the cap sleeve could be filled with RTV sealant or rubber strip (180 Deg C MP), for example.
Best of luck with your project.
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