I think Elna for audio is old caps and will not be as good as the newer low impedance caps. I just have the Nichicon PW on hand, there are others like Rubycon ZL, Chemicon KY, KZE etc.
Don't know why you want to be neat inside the case, but if u insist on small e-caps, the only other choice is Blackgate non-polar 10uF/50V will be good.
Obviously Mouse use better parts than Poppulse due to the higher px.
I think the TKD is a bit better, but there is a tweak for those plastic pots (yes, there is a tweak for everything).
Put a good resistor across the in/out pins of the pot. Some do it with output to ground. Here is some info.
http://sound.westhost.com/pots.htm
http://sound.westhost.com/project01.htm
Don't know why you want to be neat inside the case, but if u insist on small e-caps, the only other choice is Blackgate non-polar 10uF/50V will be good.
Obviously Mouse use better parts than Poppulse due to the higher px.
I think the TKD is a bit better, but there is a tweak for those plastic pots (yes, there is a tweak for everything).
Put a good resistor across the in/out pins of the pot. Some do it with output to ground. Here is some info.
http://sound.westhost.com/pots.htm
http://sound.westhost.com/project01.htm
Rather than buy more plastic pots, try the resistor tweak 1st. It will clear up the sound.
Or else get a step ladder pot like below. There are others: eg. DACT that use smd resistors and are smaller
http://cgi.ebay.com.hk/ws/eBayISAPI...kparms=algo=SI&its=I&itu=CR%2BUCI&otn=4&ps=41
Or else get a step ladder pot like below. There are others: eg. DACT that use smd resistors and are smaller
http://cgi.ebay.com.hk/ws/eBayISAPI...kparms=algo=SI&its=I&itu=CR%2BUCI&otn=4&ps=41
RaZmaTaZ said:
If u change the 6 coupling caps to mkt1822, the detaill will be as good if not better than the Trend.
If u check the pic, the Trend use a hugh coupling cap,
http://www.tnt-audio.com/ampli/trends_ta10_e.html
ChuckT said:
Hahahaha just completed my first mod job. And looks like I may have to use the MKT afterall. Here's the story:
Turns out I didn't have to order the BlackGate. They were available here in KL for about USD 1.50 a piece. Sonic Craft price is USD 0.95 a piece but add shipping n handling it came to USD 48 or so. So USD 9 and no wait, went and got it today and came home to do the mod.
Removing the old caps seemed easy enuf. But on the last one was abit tough but came off nevertheless. It looked like I lifted the solder pads on the top part of the PCB. (Damn.) Anyway, proceeded to solder the new caps and put everything back together and test. Hmm right side music, left side nothing.
Now I am surfing to see how to repair the solder pad joint or find where to patch the broken circuit.
Other choice is to figure out the circuit for the 6 e-caps and do some patch wiring.
Sigh. Since it would involve major patching on the board, might as well try out the MKT once I'm done with the BG.
The Tweak Kit from Audiomagus will be coming next week. And I been busy looking at the Trends Mod threads on whether to use the Auricap or other film cap. Ebay has some WIMA MKP that looks interesting. I am already deviating from the standard kit by using the Nichicon cap instead of the Panny FM for the power supply. I think I will use the Nichicon cuz the cap is 10 mm dia. which is the designed size. The Pannies are 12.5 mm dia.
Actually, by next week I should have everything in to do a makeover. I have the case from Italy, an Alps Blue, Panny EJV, a HK stepped Alps (from a pre-amp kit.) Aah, I don't have a knob yet.
Anyway, I still pondering whether to do the makeover with the Trends or the Poppulse.
If u post a detail pic of where u did the damage, I maybe able to tell u how to fix it.
You'll need to make sure the solder is melted better pulling on the cap. Or that do not overheat the pads.
In my opinion, no need to use Auri, the Vishay MKT sounds better and much cheaper.
The PopPulse has more potential but more complicated.
Change the large coupling to MKT1822 and see what happens.
You'll need to make sure the solder is melted better pulling on the cap. Or that do not overheat the pads.
In my opinion, no need to use Auri, the Vishay MKT sounds better and much cheaper.
The PopPulse has more potential but more complicated.
Change the large coupling to MKT1822 and see what happens.
Here's another perspective. This pix has the original elna cap on the trimpot showing the solder pad, err copper substrate? Still attached to its legs.. ouch!
I got some ideas from http://home.comcast.net/~machrone/bjr/mistakes.htm which will require some mod job on the copper trace and make do a 'solder pad' out of leftover legs from the BG caps.
Or I think I can jump the circuit via soldering wires directly to the legs at one to the resistor (I think) but on the other leg, the circuit goes to the op amp but err I don't know which leg of the op amp. Either pin 1 or pin 7 (output A and output B resp. according to the datasheet.) I presume output A & B refers to left and right channel. I need to disassemble the board again and look at the underside trace.
What's your thoughts?
Ok Ok, yes I will use the MKT cap. I ordered some more from Farnell's. This time, the 2.2uf 100v and 1.0uf 400v. I will try them on the Trend. I have 2 of them, one will go with the Auricap and the other will have the MKT. Hopefully, I can hear the difference. Btw, do you think the 2.2uf 100v is enough to replace the stock 2.2uf 250v or should I go with 2x1.0uf 400v wired in parallel?
I got some ideas from http://home.comcast.net/~machrone/bjr/mistakes.htm which will require some mod job on the copper trace and make do a 'solder pad' out of leftover legs from the BG caps.
Or I think I can jump the circuit via soldering wires directly to the legs at one to the resistor (I think) but on the other leg, the circuit goes to the op amp but err I don't know which leg of the op amp. Either pin 1 or pin 7 (output A and output B resp. according to the datasheet.) I presume output A & B refers to left and right channel. I need to disassemble the board again and look at the underside trace.
What's your thoughts?
Ok Ok, yes I will use the MKT cap. I ordered some more from Farnell's. This time, the 2.2uf 100v and 1.0uf 400v. I will try them on the Trend. I have 2 of them, one will go with the Auricap and the other will have the MKT. Hopefully, I can hear the difference. Btw, do you think the 2.2uf 100v is enough to replace the stock 2.2uf 250v or should I go with 2x1.0uf 400v wired in parallel?
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Tsk tsk, that is why I said practice on a throw-away PCB first.
Looks like you have not completely melt the solder before pulling on cap. You should not use force while pull out the cap.
Yes, the output can be tap from one of the resistor that you can directly solder on. Use a meter to check the ends of resistor to the cap hole.
And why are u putting in another e-cap in place of the Elna, no difference!?
That is not a Blackgate non-polar.
No need to put 2 1uf together, just use one 2.2uf, or use 3.3uf if there are space, not much bigger.
Looks like you have not completely melt the solder before pulling on cap. You should not use force while pull out the cap.
Yes, the output can be tap from one of the resistor that you can directly solder on. Use a meter to check the ends of resistor to the cap hole.
And why are u putting in another e-cap in place of the Elna, no difference!?
That is not a Blackgate non-polar.
No need to put 2 1uf together, just use one 2.2uf, or use 3.3uf if there are space, not much bigger.
ChuckT said:
Hehehe did practiced like you said. On 2 old PCBs. I think the old PCBs better quality boards. The ones on the Poppulse (pic) I wreck was the last e-cap to be pulled out. No much force used. It actually came off easily once the solder melted. I think my mistake was to de-from the other side. I should have melted the solder on the trace side then pull.
Ok so you suggesting I do the jump cable method and connect the circuit from the resistor to output leg of the BG. That one was quite easy to figure out. What about the other leg which has its solder pads pulled? The trace leads back to the op-amp. Do you have any idea which legs of the op-amp I would connect to?
With regards to the BG e-cap, you mean I should have used the C-series BG? I'm kinda new on this.
As for the putting 2x1.0 uf together, it is because there is no stock of the 2.2uf 250v in Farnells. The 2.2uf that was available was in 100v. Next up was the 1.0uf in 400v. So as not to waste time I got both and asked you which of the option is better to replace the stock 2.2uf 250v cap on the Trends.
There is another reason I recommend to use extension wires, you can easily change the cap if u don't like it, and u can use a bigger caps.
I think your damage trace is one end from the opamp and the other to the ta2022. If u tap the resistor, that is from the opamp. The trace to the ta2022 is much more difficult. Guess you'll need to do that scrap and expose copper trace to solder trick. Use an extension wire for that so that you can easily replace cap.
I like mkt1822 more then BG.
For BG, do not use the C series, use the red N grade.
The 2.2uf/100V is fine. No need to match V here as only use for coupling purpose. Or u can get the mkt1820 3.3uf.
I think your damage trace is one end from the opamp and the other to the ta2022. If u tap the resistor, that is from the opamp. The trace to the ta2022 is much more difficult. Guess you'll need to do that scrap and expose copper trace to solder trick. Use an extension wire for that so that you can easily replace cap.
I like mkt1822 more then BG.
For BG, do not use the C series, use the red N grade.
The 2.2uf/100V is fine. No need to match V here as only use for coupling purpose. Or u can get the mkt1820 3.3uf.
ChuckT said:
Actually to the op-amp its directly to the pin 1, and to the ta2022 its to a resistor on the underside. (See pic.) I used old cat5e cables for the jump.
Phew, the jumps worked and I have stereo again. Now testing with the small speakers. Tomorrow I shall listen through the floorstanders to check out the bass. Otherwise, now it sounds good from the small speakers.
Lemme listen to these BG PKs and see how first. I suppose I have to wait for them to break-in too? As for your MKT suggestion. I shall now proceed to check them out on the Trends. Will go with your suggestion and try the 2.2uf 100v.
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ChuckT said:
Thanks ChuckT. I couldn't have done it with you. And so, I have finally taken your advice to try out the MKTs. And its playing off the Trends right now. It sounds good! Had to make a 'test pad' using some old computer wiring (with pins and sockets that fits the thru-holes and cap legs) and a breadboard so I can hear the different caps. (See attached pix. The unused caps taped upsidedown to the breadboard are the MKT 1.0uf/400v.)
Also, what do you think of the WIMA MKS2 (2.2uf 50v)? I ordered some from ebay, a bargain (even with the shipping) compared to the prices at Farnells. I was planning to replace the BG (in the Poppulse) with the MKS2 since it seems the only choice for film cap with the size constraints.
Say, am I hearing things or does the Trends have better bass than the Poppulse?
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RaZmaTaZ said:
If u heard better bass, then it is better bass. Your ear is the best judge.
I don't have the Trend, so I don't know. But I think the Trend power supply is much better than the Poppulse.
But I recall after replace with MKT1822, I got better bass too.
I think Wima mks sucks, not a musical cap, my opinion only.
Why don't u shorten the extension wire to 1 inch and just solder the caps directly on it? Not much more work and long wire pick up noise.
MKT1822 will need a bit of time to burn in.
First time post. I just picked up the Pop Pulse amp and the first impressions are very good,but obviously there is room for improvement.I have read all the posts and feel confident that I should be able to upgrade with minimal cost and effort.However I have 2 questions that someone should be able to answer without much effort
#1.I do not want to mangle the bolts that hold the case together.
Is it a metric or Imperial allen key and what size.My torx bits T-20 too big and T-15 too small.
#2. In setting the DC offset, should the inputs be shorted or open;and on the digital display should the reading be VOL OFF or first setting at-62 db.
Thanks in advance
Hahaha you're right ChuckT. The MKTs does sound better. The Auricaps came in yesterday and had a listen to them. They very detailed and better on the mid-bass. But the MKTs is much more mellow and easy on the ears. So now the MKTs are permanently on the amp.
And between the 2.2uf/100v and the 1.0uf/400v, somehow I prefer the 400v. Maybe I'm hearing things or size does matter. Anyway, I think listening to music is like drinking wine. Some days, the same wine taste better.
And between the 2.2uf/100v and the 1.0uf/400v, somehow I prefer the 400v. Maybe I'm hearing things or size does matter. Anyway, I think listening to music is like drinking wine. Some days, the same wine taste better.
RaZmaTaZ said:
I found the Auri is good on the mid because it is a bit lacking at both ends.
MKT1822 will need some break in.
Interesting finding, you say the 400v sounds better than 100V, or it could be 1uf vs 2.2uf. Did u use 2 x 1uF, because just 1uf may not be enough for the low end pass, but may be it won't make a difference.
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