Hi
I was about to get some WR125s to make two single speakers to vastly increase the sound quality of a TV, and a micro-stereo, which I could alternatively use for a good bedroom system pair.
Then I thought - I don’t need much volume, nor (for TV anyhow) quite the quality that you do for music listening. (Plus there’s a restructure now on at work and I could be without income).
So XBL2 aside, what is a good full ranger that’s say half their price?
Thanks
I was about to get some WR125s to make two single speakers to vastly increase the sound quality of a TV, and a micro-stereo, which I could alternatively use for a good bedroom system pair.
Then I thought - I don’t need much volume, nor (for TV anyhow) quite the quality that you do for music listening. (Plus there’s a restructure now on at work and I could be without income).
So XBL2 aside, what is a good full ranger that’s say half their price?
Thanks
http://www.zaphaudio.com/audio-speaker18.html
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=297-427&DID=7
Good price and good sounding.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&PartNumber=297-427&DID=7
Good price and good sounding.
Hi MPM
I'd earlier put this one aside because of its low 80 dB sensitivity, but maybe that's enough. The design article is good, thank you.
I looked at the 4-5 off Tangbands, but only one of them may be better, and it's twice the price and (nominal) 4 ohms.
Have you heard this/ anyone compared to Tangbands?
I'd earlier put this one aside because of its low 80 dB sensitivity, but maybe that's enough. The design article is good, thank you.
I looked at the 4-5 off Tangbands, but only one of them may be better, and it's twice the price and (nominal) 4 ohms.
Have you heard this/ anyone compared to Tangbands?
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-846
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-820
If 4ohms is a problem I would go for one of these. I built a home theater setup using the w4-656SB and it gave a clean crisp sound. Not the naturalness of my fostex 108, but at a quarter of the price and a larger power handling... not bad. I'm working on a pair of speakers using the W4-1320SB. It certainly looks to be a nice driver, and I have I hopes, but I haven't done enough listening to tell you more.
these mods really help out the w4-656SB as well:
http://madspeaker.com/Projects/4-656/656Sgluemod.htm
Joe
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-820
If 4ohms is a problem I would go for one of these. I built a home theater setup using the w4-656SB and it gave a clean crisp sound. Not the naturalness of my fostex 108, but at a quarter of the price and a larger power handling... not bad. I'm working on a pair of speakers using the W4-1320SB. It certainly looks to be a nice driver, and I have I hopes, but I haven't done enough listening to tell you more.
these mods really help out the w4-656SB as well:
http://madspeaker.com/Projects/4-656/656Sgluemod.htm
Joe
rick57 said:
PPM usually stands for Parts Per Million. A four barrel carburetor is generally written 4 BBL, so who knows? Different drugs for different folks I guess.
The cone of the W4-656SB is polypropelene. I have a pair that I've listened to stock as midbass in a 3 way and driven hard in parallel with the main woofer and no HP filter. Impressive driver and tough IMO. I have another pair that I have removed the dustcaps as per the MAD article and installed custom made solid aluminum bullets in. I haven't added the glue beads or done listening tests on these yet. I hope to spend more time with this driver. I sure wish it had higher efficiency though.
I'm lookinginto the same thing. Was going to build a pair of Fr125s for the TV, but the box was too big. I finally decided on these:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-817
TB657SB. Used them in the TV for about 2 years, and they sound very good. They need taming at the top end though. The bamboo ones may have a better controlled top end.
I started the gluing for a new 3L box (sealed) for these last night. What I like about this driver is that it'll give an honest 100 dB at 100Hz with 20 watts, and the little 3" ers won't come close.
I used sealed, to avoid having these little woofers bottom on out of band bass, as they will in a vented.
I'm designing an 1139C tang band sub to go with them, 100Hz xover.
The Fr125s will come a bit later for the computer.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&DID=7&Partnumber=264-817
TB657SB. Used them in the TV for about 2 years, and they sound very good. They need taming at the top end though. The bamboo ones may have a better controlled top end.
I started the gluing for a new 3L box (sealed) for these last night. What I like about this driver is that it'll give an honest 100 dB at 100Hz with 20 watts, and the little 3" ers won't come close.
I used sealed, to avoid having these little woofers bottom on out of band bass, as they will in a vented.
I'm designing an 1139C tang band sub to go with them, 100Hz xover.
The Fr125s will come a bit later for the computer.
My friend built two pairs of Buschorn MK2 TB's, one pair with W4-655 and the other with W4-657. They're both very nice drivers, but will need some notch filters to fix the 1kHz and 7kHz spikes. Without correction they sound kinda awful.
I'm thinking of using the W4-657 in a 2-way with monopole tweeter and bipole midbass. They have quite good efficiency and Qts .38 for good BR. Although I'm still thinking if a Dayton RS125 or Aura NS4-255 would be a better choice.
I'm thinking of using the W4-657 in a 2-way with monopole tweeter and bipole midbass. They have quite good efficiency and Qts .38 for good BR. Although I'm still thinking if a Dayton RS125 or Aura NS4-255 would be a better choice.
handling bass < 100 Hz for TV
Do others think sealed is desirable, to avoid bottoming out for TV use?
Maybe it depends somewhat on if you’re watching a doco, or MTV playing your favourite song (if that ever happens)?
If I did a sub to handle low bass, I'd want one with Q probably < 0.25 to go in a small box eg maybe only 20 litres. Any candidates?
Do others think sealed is desirable, to avoid bottoming out for TV use?
Maybe it depends somewhat on if you’re watching a doco, or MTV playing your favourite song (if that ever happens)?
If I did a sub to handle low bass, I'd want one with Q probably < 0.25 to go in a small box eg maybe only 20 litres. Any candidates?
Download unibox and do a quick sim of any vented box with this small a driver and high a box tune. You'll be shocked at how easily the wooofer bottoms vented, sometimes as quickly as a couple watts.
I think that the woofer easily bottoms in vented has to be true (the math don't lie), whether people find it sounds objectionable when it does is I guess what you're asking. I don't like it FWIW.
I think that the woofer easily bottoms in vented has to be true (the math don't lie), whether people find it sounds objectionable when it does is I guess what you're asking. I don't like it FWIW.
Need an xo and (I don’t yet know how big) a box, but a Dayton 295-315 www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?DID=7&PartNumber=295-315 would give nice bass and take the strain off even the 0.5 mm Xmax small fullrangers
Cheers
Cheers
Check out the TB W6-1139SC. It seems to walk that perfect line for a sub that needs only 100 db peak o/p. Small box possible (10L or 12 L) and a good honest 35 Hz o/p. Only trick is that it needs at least a 2" port, and this will be in the 25 to 30cm length range, so it'll need to be bent or folded in the box.
I'll be using an 18L box, only so I can fit a straight 2" precision port with enough flow space around the port and driver.
I'll be using an 18L box, only so I can fit a straight 2" precision port with enough flow space around the port and driver.
Josephjcole said:
Joe,
Have you had a chance to evaluate the 1320SB? I'd be very interested in how they sound and what you're doing with them. I'm fumbling around for a driver to play with and this one has caught my attention due to its price. I've also considered the FE108EZ, but I'm concerned it will not give me the umph (volume-wise) I need to fill my room.
Thanks,
Paul
Paul Ebert said:
Well I've started constuction of the final enclosures which will be two ways crossed at 200Hz to a 10" driver. So I still cann't add any new insights based on listening. I have to say though that I love my 108EZ. I have it in a wide-range two way and am quite happy with it. What size is your room? The 108 does have a limited excursion and can start to loose it at high volumes and complex passages when run on its own. But really in a back horn it is a wonderfull driver and can really make music. In a two way I think it is even better. I wish I could tell you more about the sound of the 1320SB, give me a couple of weeks. Certainly the 1320SB will not require such a complex cabinet and will not put such a hurt on your wallet. In the end though I doubt the 1320SB will be able to compare in sound quality to the 108's.
we'll see I'm building test enclosures to try out a couple of things on the 1320SB so I'll listen to these and get back to you soon.
Joe
My room is approx. 14' by 22' with 8' ceilings. I am not able to place the speakers close to a wall or corner due to a poorly positioned fireplace.
I do not play at very high volumes (well, occasionally...) and I would be very open to adding a (sub)woofer to cover the bass, though that might have to wait a while.
I listen to classical music, all types of classical but opera.
I'm not put off by complex enclosures, but I do have some WAF constraints (not too wide or deep, tall is OK).
Do you think it would work to use a pair of FE108EZs in the factory recommended enclosure, crossing over at, say, 100 hz to a separate (sub)woofer?
Thanks.
Paul
I do not play at very high volumes (well, occasionally...) and I would be very open to adding a (sub)woofer to cover the bass, though that might have to wait a while.
I listen to classical music, all types of classical but opera.
I'm not put off by complex enclosures, but I do have some WAF constraints (not too wide or deep, tall is OK).
Do you think it would work to use a pair of FE108EZs in the factory recommended enclosure, crossing over at, say, 100 hz to a separate (sub)woofer?
Thanks.
Paul
Yeah the 108 should work well for you. Either the factory recomended enclosure or the Buschhorn (check out the thread for more info). Bringing a sub into the picture might be a good idea, but probably at a lower frequency, unless you are planning on using an active crossover on the 108's as well. In which case maybe a different enclosure would be good as well. But... yeah people seem to like the Buschhorn.
Joe
Joe
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