Point me in the right direction

[Andy G]

I'm not sure what the fronts are, but remember that they need to be very well seasoned stable timber if you want to use natural wood.

Personally I really don't like the use of non matching timbers in a cabinet, (like in that thread), but that is only my opinion.
You American guys seem to go for that type of thing though, seems to be a regular aethetic design flaw over there!

 

[Curmudgeon]

Above, you mentioned that they'd go on the desk. If there is a computer there, especially one with a CRT monitor, you'll need shielded drivers, like those in the suggested Swifty kit.

 

[BHTX]

If they're going to be sitting flat on the desk too, like at the back corners and slightly below your head, I'd highly suggest rasing and/or angling them up a bit.. rather than just sitting them flat on the desk like that, as it'll cause some problems. Even with a simple setup on a desk like that, do a little experimenting with placement.

 

[subwoffers]

Thanks for all the help, I'm going to start working on the Cabinets tomm, I'm reading the PDF for the design it suggests. However it does not say to use what thickness mdf. Is it safe to assume it is 3/4?

 

[BHTX]

Yes, 3/4" MDF will work fine. Don't forget, there are other materials besides MDF as well, such as baltic birch and other kinds of ply.

 

[subwoffers]

Thanks, I had some MDF around the house so I think I will use that. I was just wondering how to attach the Cross Over to the bottom of the cabinet when It comes time to assemble it?

 

[subwoffers]

Update,

Well I'm waiting for the parts to arrive so I decided to have a go at the cabinets with some mdf laying around. I followed the suggested plans and came up with these. (sry for bad quality picture)

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

I have a small question about finishing them, I don't want to paint them becasuse i really enjoy the "wood" look. I am looking around the forum and see that people have used veneer to cover it. Is this real wood thats is very thin that can be applied to the sides of the cabinet? Is this very expensive? What size does this stuff come in?

thanks

 

[Andy G]

You can use real veneers, no idea of the cost, where, size etc over there, but not generally over-expensive unless you use very exotic veneers.
Or you can buy faux veneers from places like Parts Express.

 

[chainenoble]

go to rona not home depot and buy their paperback veneer.the paper back is easier to work with.rona has rolls of 12" x 96" which should be enough to do fronts,sides and tops and maybe back if you measure and cut carefully.i find ronas maple is the smoothest.their other veneer can be rough and ridgy,witch may require sanding.also inspect the rolls for damage and cracking before buying.
you will see the instructions suggest contact cement.i've found using contact cement difficult and can often result in bubbles and can separate when close to a heat source.use watered down white wood glue instead.works much better,and healthier too.

hope this helps

 

[subwoffers]

You were 100% right chainenoble, the contact cement gave me huge bubbles as the wood swelled from it =(. I had to redo 2 sides with white glue.

The cabinets are not pretty much done, I was wonder what kind of hardware I should use to screw the drivers down with? Is there a popular size of screws that you guys prefer?

I'm also wondering that kind of hardware is used for the front baffle so that the front can be unscrewd?

Thanks for all the help!

 

[Curmudgeon]

Screws for mounting the drivers vary in size, depending on the mounting holes. The screw heads should have a flat underside, so as not to tend to split the speaker flange. It is also a good idea to use Philips or Torx or hex head screws, as ordinary straight slotted heads can allow the screwdriver to slip and damage the cone surround.

A very common method of sealing the cabinet is to glue the front baffle to the sides, and all maintenance is then done through the driver mounting hole. Obviously this means the crossover should fit through the hole, and wire "tails" should be long enough to allow withdrawing the xo.

Something the DIYer can do is to mount the xo on the back of the speaker cabinet,on the outside, to reduce the amount of vibration it's exposed to.

 

[subwoffers]

Hey everyone!
After weeks and weeks of work, the swifty's are finally done. I know they are not "Hi-Fi" or anything. However they are for sure better than any pair of speakers I have ever owned and is about 10 times better than my old computer speakers.

I'm no audio expert so I wont be able to compare or comment on them intelligently. I have noticed that there is less bass than my old computer speakers, however the vocals/string instruments are very clear and the bass is very "tight" if thats what you call it.

So far I love these speakers, a nice female vocal is so relaxing!
Thanks for everyone who helped me and suggested ideas. I'll be sticking around trying to learn more.

An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.

 

[PeteMcK]

Nice work Subwoffers, good to see someone having a go.
Now, just build a matching sub to give yourself a little more bass,
and you'll be an expert

 

[BHTX]

Build some small matching stands or something, and raise 'em up off the desk a bit to get those midwoofers away from that flat surface. Are the tweeters already at ear level when seated in front of the monitor?

 

[subwoffers]

Thanks! The tweeters are about 2in above ear level, I'll fix that buy lowering the desk today.
Can you teach me as to why they should not sit on a flat service? Does this allow vibrations or bass to travel onto the desk instead of going through the rear port?

I'm a bit confused as to what a "small speaker stand" means, doesnt a small speaker stand also require the speaker to sit on a flat service?
Can the small cone shaped feet that screw into the corners of speakers be used? Thanks

 

[BHTX]

I've always found that placing speakers, at least those with a completely vertical baffle, on a desk like that screws up the frequency response, imaging, and everything and anything else. The sound from the midwoofer hitting the desk is usually responsible for this.

 

[BHTX]

Also, I meant to add that it's actually probably not as bad in your case as it could be, since the desk has that shorter extension sitting up higher for the monitor and speakers, and there's only a few inches of desk (if that) directly in front of the speakers. You could also probably get away with just scooting them up a bit more, flush with the edge of the desk, but then they'd be up further and closer to you, and might look funny or something.