Teres is using engineered wood. The process is described on Teres page. Even if you have the right wood it is not an easy project. It is important that the platter is a perfect circle, single piece of wood, plywood or butcher block would be dimensionally unstable.
Be aware that I am an audio amateur, relatively new to vinyl and most of my own ideas come from the top of my head. Correct me if I am wrong. The turntable is like a musical instrument that has to reproduce sound of many instruments made from different materials.
I have chosen acrylic platter from VPI because it was easy to get, came with ring clamp and I could not cut platter or ring myself.
There is one bad thing about acrylic platter: it does not conduct electricity. The platter on my TT combined with plastic belt for Teres motor worked like a static electricity generator. Teres platter users reported similar problem. With VPI belt the static was less audible. I have covered the platter with Cu foil and grounded it, see the picture. It solved the problem completely. I think conductive platter is also helpful in discharging static buildup in LP itself.
For my plinth I used solid cocobolo wood and acrylic for sub chassis. Wood alone (I mean not engineered wood) would be structurally unstable under a load of a heavy platter. If I did not have acrylic for free I would prefer aluminum for sub chassis. The bearing is screwed to the wood and 6” aluminum/lead ring. I use the ring to better drain energy from the bearing. The bearing does not touch sub chassis, see the picture. I think bigger ring like this (with lead cast into aluminum) could be used for a platter.
After I had built the TT I found that tonearms are more important than table. I have built a couple of modified Schroeder clones, but that’s another story. I do not have a picture of the final version of tonearm but my upside down model with additional magnetic antiskate works beautifully.
An amateur has a right to be wrong, when a pro is wrong he has to be the Pope to be right.
Marek Stojek
http://gallery.audioasylum.com/cgi/view.mpl?UserImages=21150
Be aware that I am an audio amateur, relatively new to vinyl and most of my own ideas come from the top of my head. Correct me if I am wrong. The turntable is like a musical instrument that has to reproduce sound of many instruments made from different materials.
I have chosen acrylic platter from VPI because it was easy to get, came with ring clamp and I could not cut platter or ring myself.
There is one bad thing about acrylic platter: it does not conduct electricity. The platter on my TT combined with plastic belt for Teres motor worked like a static electricity generator. Teres platter users reported similar problem. With VPI belt the static was less audible. I have covered the platter with Cu foil and grounded it, see the picture. It solved the problem completely. I think conductive platter is also helpful in discharging static buildup in LP itself.
For my plinth I used solid cocobolo wood and acrylic for sub chassis. Wood alone (I mean not engineered wood) would be structurally unstable under a load of a heavy platter. If I did not have acrylic for free I would prefer aluminum for sub chassis. The bearing is screwed to the wood and 6” aluminum/lead ring. I use the ring to better drain energy from the bearing. The bearing does not touch sub chassis, see the picture. I think bigger ring like this (with lead cast into aluminum) could be used for a platter.
After I had built the TT I found that tonearms are more important than table. I have built a couple of modified Schroeder clones, but that’s another story. I do not have a picture of the final version of tonearm but my upside down model with additional magnetic antiskate works beautifully.
An amateur has a right to be wrong, when a pro is wrong he has to be the Pope to be right.
Marek Stojek
http://gallery.audioasylum.com/cgi/view.mpl?UserImages=21150
I started a DIY turntable project a few years ago and it hasn`t gotten any farther along yet. I began by fabricating a 2-1/2 inch thick platter out of two pieces of water clear 1-1/4 inch thick bullet proof plastic called Lexguard. These three images show lamination process using 2-part resin-hardner product called Behr `Super-Built 50`. Then the piece was cut in a circle on the bandsaw and mounted in the lathe secured with non-scratching double sided carpet tape between a plate and a small disc with live center. A 1/4 inch pin in the center of the chuck plate inserted slightly into a shallow centering hole drilled in the platter kept the whole thing securely centered. I had to face the right side and re-polish as the thickness of the Lexguard was far from uniform. I was really surprised by this actually! The finished platter runs absolutely true and is shown dropped onto the direct drive motor I was going to try to use which is currently part of my Technics TT.
Yeah I made the brass center weight as well, and that turntable stand underneath that you just see the top of.
Yeah I made the brass center weight as well, and that turntable stand underneath that you just see the top of.
Attachments
All too common.
This is the norm with acrylic, polycarbonate, or any cast or extruded sheet. You must machine all surfaces to prove parallelism as well as perpendicularity with the bore of the platter.
Why didn't you just buy a 2 1/2" thick chunk of material, would have saved some glue.
Did you build your bearing yet? What motor/drive are you using?
rcavictim said:
This is the norm with acrylic, polycarbonate, or any cast or extruded sheet. You must machine all surfaces to prove parallelism as well as perpendicularity with the bore of the platter.
Why didn't you just buy a 2 1/2" thick chunk of material, would have saved some glue.
Did you build your bearing yet? What motor/drive are you using?
Re: All too common.
The stuff I have costs about $150 US per square foot. Why didn`t I just buy a chunk of 2-1/2 inch stock? Because I got my inventory for free!
I was going to use the controller as well as motor and bearing that is a package out of my Technics turntable shown, the SL-110A. I bought that unit new way back when.
Vinyl-Addict said:
<snip>
Why didn't you just buy a 2 1/2" thick chunk of material, would have saved some glue.
Did you build your bearing yet? What motor/drive are you using?
The stuff I have costs about $150 US per square foot. Why didn`t I just buy a chunk of 2-1/2 inch stock? Because I got my inventory for free!
I was going to use the controller as well as motor and bearing that is a package out of my Technics turntable shown, the SL-110A. I bought that unit new way back when.
Re: Re: Re: All too common.
No boss to worry about here. Actually I was fortunate to get the opportunity to dismantle and remove the front safety wall of a bank kiosk about 7 years ago in Toronto. It had been built no more than a year before and the institution was moving out of the building. I got maybe half a ton of this fine plastic in some pieces as large as 2x4 and 3x4 feet. I use it sparingly and only for those really special projects because at the price it costs, for my own projects I could never afford to go and buy any. I may make a subwoofer coffee table like the hi-fi version of Steve Deckert`s Wicked One, and use a large piece as the clear top.
This stuff is incredibly heavy and sonically dead. It would make awesome(ly expensive) speaker cabinets. It wouid make outstanding open baffles.
Vinyl-Addict said:
No boss to worry about here. Actually I was fortunate to get the opportunity to dismantle and remove the front safety wall of a bank kiosk about 7 years ago in Toronto. It had been built no more than a year before and the institution was moving out of the building. I got maybe half a ton of this fine plastic in some pieces as large as 2x4 and 3x4 feet. I use it sparingly and only for those really special projects because at the price it costs, for my own projects I could never afford to go and buy any. I may make a subwoofer coffee table like the hi-fi version of Steve Deckert`s Wicked One, and use a large piece as the clear top.
This stuff is incredibly heavy and sonically dead. It would make awesome(ly expensive) speaker cabinets. It wouid make outstanding open baffles.
Just a couple of things;
Nice work by many there
I've never had any problem achieving a good finish on Delrin - a slightly radiused cutter (rather than a point) makes it a lot easier though (as does exactly the right speed and feed).
I have also used the method used by Bob P. to mount items in the lathe - always worked well.
My experience of cast acrylic is also that it thickness across sheet varies significantly and all surfaces must be machined true.
Nice work by many there
I've never had any problem achieving a good finish on Delrin - a slightly radiused cutter (rather than a point) makes it a lot easier though (as does exactly the right speed and feed).
I have also used the method used by Bob P. to mount items in the lathe - always worked well.
My experience of cast acrylic is also that it thickness across sheet varies significantly and all surfaces must be machined true.
Hi, I managed to mess up the drilling of my cutting board 2" wooden platter.
An idea i had while searching eBay for circular 300mm diameter objects was to use disk brakes, they can be bought for around £30+/-.
They must be machined to high tolerances.?
I have tried to find out if they are they magnetic and whether this will affect the MM my cartridge?
I remember reading someone wanting to try it, but can't find the link or site it was one.
So anyone thought about it, or have any brain waves.
An idea i had while searching eBay for circular 300mm diameter objects was to use disk brakes, they can be bought for around £30+/-.
They must be machined to high tolerances.?
I have tried to find out if they are they magnetic and whether this will affect the MM my cartridge?
I remember reading someone wanting to try it, but can't find the link or site it was one.
So anyone thought about it, or have any brain waves.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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