okay, that seems to work. with the inductor still out and jumper wires in its place it will now power up okay, and no more noisy transformer. it is still only pulling a coulpe amps and the power supply is producing -/+ 81v. now i will reinstall the inductor and see what happens. if it is okay then i will check out the output drivers since i already have the board out.
is the cooling fan supposed to be blowing on the driver board or on the inductors? if needed i'll take pics but the cooling fan is positioned between the 2 large inductors and the driver board and as of now is wired to blow on the inductors and suck air from the driver board (red is on positive). in the tutorial you said you had to reverse the plug in some similar amps (Planet Audio VX2200D) the fan is also defective, it was not working at all when i powered it up earlier, so i checked for voltage on the fan plug and there was 16v. i then removed the fan and hooked it up with a resister in series with the power wire and it was running very slowly so i hooked it up directly to 12v and it was still running slow so i tapped on it and it would get faster every time. the fan was hot when i first removed it from the amp but i wasn't sure if the heat came from the HOT driver board or from being defective, but the fan does heat up on it's own. as of now i'm about to read up on the section about restoring the fans.
It's supposed to blow over the inductors. That's why you see the drivers on the older driver boards mounted close to the blades of the fan.
The re-wiring of the fan and LED was only necessary if you wanted the plugs to match the silkscreen on the board. On those amps, if you unplugged them and didn't pay attention, you'd plug them in according to the silkscreen and they wouldn't work.
The re-wiring of the fan and LED was only necessary if you wanted the plugs to match the silkscreen on the board. On those amps, if you unplugged them and didn't pay attention, you'd plug them in according to the silkscreen and they wouldn't work.
thank you. so far i've been playing it for and hour or so and it seems perfect. i started with 4 ohm and worked down to 1 ohm and it has given me no problems. in 1 of the first post on this thread i said the amp was getting very hot even at idle when we first bought it and i think that played a roll in the amp blowing. well now i have been playing it at various levels and loads for an hour or so and it is still cool to the touch!! i bought some epoxy from walmart for the inductor i removed and i will probably apply that when i wake up tomorrow.
i have a quick question about the bb2400 your working on, i have one now and i also bought it refurbished from wbay. my amps "blue light" on the top casing comes on when ONLY the remote and ground is connected and no power is connected on the power terminal just remote and ground only, did yours do this also?
Digi-Key - 259-1352-ND (Manufacturer - KDE1204PFVX.11.MS.A.GN)
I've ordered a couple of these but they haven't arrived yet. If you find any that produce more than 9.5cfm, please post the link.
I've ordered a couple of these but they haven't arrived yet. If you find any that produce more than 9.5cfm, please post the link.
i just got around to messing with this amp again i ordered the fans and zener perry suggested. so now i installed the resistor R96 and zener ZD6. now when i power it up the green light comes on and it only pulling an amp or so of current at idle but it won't produce any audio and R40 is very hot. it's a 6800 ohm and is still within tolorance.
the story on the amp is my friend got it refurbished from ebay. i installed it for him and it got very hot just at idle but played ok. within a few weeks it blew out. i had to replace all the power supply fets and the outputs along with other various parts. the fan was not working so i took it apart, cleaned, lubed and resassembled it and when i got done it all worked great for a few months until he complained about it not being as lound as it usaully was. so i looked at it and was very hot and i didn't hear the fan running. i also noticed that it would audio with a load on it but when i disconnected the load it would go into protection. so i opened the amp up and found R96 burnt and the fan not running. i don't know if ZD6 was bad or not because when i pulled it one of the leads broke off. so i now this is where i'm at.
i don't know if this makes a difference but i checked the voltage across R40 and it was ~75v i checked R41 and it was at ~3v.
where should i go next?
the story on the amp is my friend got it refurbished from ebay. i installed it for him and it got very hot just at idle but played ok. within a few weeks it blew out. i had to replace all the power supply fets and the outputs along with other various parts. the fan was not working so i took it apart, cleaned, lubed and resassembled it and when i got done it all worked great for a few months until he complained about it not being as lound as it usaully was. so i looked at it and was very hot and i didn't hear the fan running. i also noticed that it would audio with a load on it but when i disconnected the load it would go into protection. so i opened the amp up and found R96 burnt and the fan not running. i don't know if ZD6 was bad or not because when i pulled it one of the leads broke off. so i now this is where i'm at.
i don't know if this makes a difference but i checked the voltage across R40 and it was ~75v i checked R41 and it was at ~3v.
where should i go next?
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maybe i'm on the wrong track but it appears as though the - voltage where R40 & R162 connect is being pulled up 0.038vdc.
i noticed that if i pulled one lead on R162 the voltage on it's top pad goes from -56.9vdc to ~-70vdc.
all these measurments were taken with no input signal.
i noticed that if i pulled one lead on R162 the voltage on it's top pad goes from -56.9vdc to ~-70vdc.
all these measurments were taken with no input signal.
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