Hi,
I'm trying to build a set of bookshelves using the CHN-50P , using a design similar to the one published below
The idea is to split this and use them as 2 standalone bookshelves supplemented by a Subwoofer.
Would it be a better idea to place the 2nd driver on the top like an up-firing driver. I believe the Microtower castle does this
Or to the outisde. Below is a mockup of the right side speaker facing me. The Slot Vent port is front facing in both designs
This will be a living room speaker(s) and the idea for using the 2nd driver was to increase off axis response and also increase the loudness. It will be placed very close to a wall on a shelf about 18 inches off the floor
Is this even a feasible idea?
I've also made a mockup using the similar design from MarkAudio's website as a sound bar
Thank you
I'm trying to build a set of bookshelves using the CHN-50P , using a design similar to the one published below
The idea is to split this and use them as 2 standalone bookshelves supplemented by a Subwoofer.
Would it be a better idea to place the 2nd driver on the top like an up-firing driver. I believe the Microtower castle does this
Or to the outisde. Below is a mockup of the right side speaker facing me. The Slot Vent port is front facing in both designs
This will be a living room speaker(s) and the idea for using the 2nd driver was to increase off axis response and also increase the loudness. It will be placed very close to a wall on a shelf about 18 inches off the floor
Is this even a feasible idea?
I've also made a mockup using the similar design from MarkAudio's website as a sound bar
Thank you
dafreaking,
Maybe this plan set by Planet10 can give you some inspiration for dual-driver (in single cabinet) builds with the second driver in up-firing or side-firing configuration.
https://www.frugal-phile.com/boxlib/P10free/microTower-maps-020615.pdf
Maybe this plan set by Planet10 can give you some inspiration for dual-driver (in single cabinet) builds with the second driver in up-firing or side-firing configuration.
https://www.frugal-phile.com/boxlib/P10free/microTower-maps-020615.pdf
FWIW, I built a few pairs of the P10 Microtowers with several different drivers between 2009 and probably 2015, and by far preferred the slanted top Castle version seen on page 5 of the above noted plan set to the bipoles. In my case the top / end mounted driver was angled at 10dg, IIRC. In fact, my 90 year old mom has one of those pairs (CHN70), and 15 years later my upstairs living room music system still has speakers with a similar configuration - in this case a 2way, not quite MTM, as in addition to a wideband mid-woofer on both the front and angled top panels, there’s a soft dome tweeter mounted on the front baffle.
dafreaking,
As long as you keep the cabinet volume an port sizes intact for a bass reflex box, you should be able to achieve the same bass extension as the original design. The 1+1 driver orientation (slanted or at 90 degrees) will have some impact on the direct and reflected sound, and the subjective result will vary with placement and room characteristics.
Do you already have the drivers?
If yes, one idea is make test boxes from foam core or PVC sheet (can cut with a good box cutter) and see if you like them. For 1/2" wall construction, 6mm ply + 6mm PVC sheet can make a nice composite panel.
As long as you keep the cabinet volume an port sizes intact for a bass reflex box, you should be able to achieve the same bass extension as the original design. The 1+1 driver orientation (slanted or at 90 degrees) will have some impact on the direct and reflected sound, and the subjective result will vary with placement and room characteristics.
Do you already have the drivers?
If yes, one idea is make test boxes from foam core or PVC sheet (can cut with a good box cutter) and see if you like them. For 1/2" wall construction, 6mm ply + 6mm PVC sheet can make a nice composite panel.
Thanks.
No I don't have the drivers at the moment. So this is all in theory. I've only chosen this driver since it's available for a pretty reasonable price here. And the idea for a "nano" Tower came about since I wanted to place these in a rather tough living room. Something like an ambient party speaker, augmented with a sub.
The priority is off axis response since it's kinda doing the job of a traditional boombox
No I don't have the drivers at the moment. So this is all in theory. I've only chosen this driver since it's available for a pretty reasonable price here. And the idea for a "nano" Tower came about since I wanted to place these in a rather tough living room. Something like an ambient party speaker, augmented with a sub.
The priority is off axis response since it's kinda doing the job of a traditional boombox
If I understand correctly, the application of this setup would be to deliver an enjoyable, room filling sound at reasonable SPL to the people in the room. The "Nano Tower" concept you have in mind is worth exploring - and you have correctly baked in the idea of having woofers/sub-woofers supporting the low frequencies.
What amplification are you considering?
What amplification are you considering?
@zman01 I'm new to the DIY audio scene and wondering about the difference between CHN-50 and CHN-50P. Which of these would be more suitable for a bookshelf speaker?
adnandros,
I have not listened to the CHN-50 or the CHN-50P myself.
Looking at the box plans on the Mark Audio website product pages, it looks like the CHN-50 can go lower in bass in compact boxes:
https://www.markaudio.com/online_shop/ch/chn-50/
https://www.markaudio.com/online_shop/ch/chn-50p/
Other members with more experience with these drivers can maybe chime in?
If I may ask, what are the musical genres that you enjoy/plan to listen with these drivers?
I have not listened to the CHN-50 or the CHN-50P myself.
Looking at the box plans on the Mark Audio website product pages, it looks like the CHN-50 can go lower in bass in compact boxes:
https://www.markaudio.com/online_shop/ch/chn-50/
https://www.markaudio.com/online_shop/ch/chn-50p/
Other members with more experience with these drivers can maybe chime in?
If I may ask, what are the musical genres that you enjoy/plan to listen with these drivers?
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I am from Bangladesh. Nice to meet you on diyAudio.
In my experience, wide-band (also know as "full-range") drivers fare better with lighter genres of music (acoustic, girl and guitar, vocal, small jazz ensembles); for music that has a higher noise floor and more complexity (e.g. rock, metal), a 2 way/multi-way speaker tends to do better. I experimented with wide-band drivers for quite some time, and then moved towards a 2 way and then eventually a 3 way.
The CHN50 and CHN50P have relatively smaller cone area and limited linear excursion - this will impact their ability to move air, and create that "punch" or "slam" that is enjoyable in rock music. Also both drivers have relatively higher Fs, so their ability to go down to the lower frequencies will be limited too in a small box. One option is to pair them with helper woofers or sub-woofers.
Nice to meet you on diyAudio.In my experience, wide-band (also know as "full-range") drivers fare better with lighter genres of music (acoustic, girl and guitar, vocal, small jazz ensembles); for music that has a higher noise floor and more complexity (e.g. rock, metal), a 2 way/multi-way speaker tends to do better. I experimented with wide-band drivers for quite some time, and then moved towards a 2 way and then eventually a 3 way.
The CHN50 and CHN50P have relatively smaller cone area and limited linear excursion - this will impact their ability to move air, and create that "punch" or "slam" that is enjoyable in rock music. Also both drivers have relatively higher Fs, so their ability to go down to the lower frequencies will be limited too in a small box. One option is to pair them with helper woofers or sub-woofers.
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adnandros, historically the P suffix on Mark’s speaker has meant paper cone, which have generally had what some would categorize as “classic/old school” tonality- i.e. softer on the top end. Attached are CLIO / LMS measurements of both - paper on the left.
There are of course other differences in T/S parameters that will affect optimal enclosure tuning / dimensions.
The option zman references in the last line of his above comment (#14) is one often referred to as WAW; essentially a 2way with crossover frequency generally several octaves below the modern norm for systems with small dome or ribbon/AMT style tweeters. I’ve built several of those using MA drivers with excellent results.
There are of course other differences in T/S parameters that will affect optimal enclosure tuning / dimensions.
The option zman references in the last line of his above comment (#14) is one often referred to as WAW; essentially a 2way with crossover frequency generally several octaves below the modern norm for systems with small dome or ribbon/AMT style tweeters. I’ve built several of those using MA drivers with excellent results.
Attachments
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side or upward mounted drivers
would in theory improve bass response.
It would require a crossover to dedicate bass frequencies
to the side mounted woofer. So high frequency doesn't
comb or cancel.
With smaller drivers the frequency point would be still
relatively limited to only be so low.
So center to center spacing should still be as close as possible.
And likewise still require a crossover.
Since your essentially mounting 90 degree off axis
either way. The reduced off axis response would
help or make a simple 1st or 2nd order crossover
work rather well.
Since in theory the 90 degree driver is dedicated to
lower non directional bandwidth. Also in theory
mounting location = Doesnt matter 90 degrees is 90 degrees.
In reality in actual room response could be explored.
Since the distance of the ceiling or distance to side wall could
be different. One or the other mounting positions could effect
room response. But would be heavily dictated by the wall or ceiling
distance. And the main effect would be crossover point is above
or below a directional or non directional frequency point.
And again if directional, is important to have very close center to center spacing
would in theory improve bass response.
It would require a crossover to dedicate bass frequencies
to the side mounted woofer. So high frequency doesn't
comb or cancel.
With smaller drivers the frequency point would be still
relatively limited to only be so low.
So center to center spacing should still be as close as possible.
And likewise still require a crossover.
Since your essentially mounting 90 degree off axis
either way. The reduced off axis response would
help or make a simple 1st or 2nd order crossover
work rather well.
Since in theory the 90 degree driver is dedicated to
lower non directional bandwidth. Also in theory
mounting location = Doesnt matter 90 degrees is 90 degrees.
In reality in actual room response could be explored.
Since the distance of the ceiling or distance to side wall could
be different. One or the other mounting positions could effect
room response. But would be heavily dictated by the wall or ceiling
distance. And the main effect would be crossover point is above
or below a directional or non directional frequency point.
And again if directional, is important to have very close center to center spacing