well its working now
its probably cause the way i am looking at the amp i have the small transistor reversed.. anyways i confirmed with the pinout on the diagram and put it the right way .. its powering up and playing
the only substitute i have is 2SK2312 do you know them ?
I will take a look at IRFIZ48
its probably cause the way i am looking at the amp i have the small transistor reversed.. anyways i confirmed with the pinout on the diagram and put it the right way .. its powering up and playing
the only substitute i have is 2SK2312 do you know them ?
I will take a look at IRFIZ48
wow they have IRFIZ48NPBF and IRFIZ48VPBF on allied
its dirt cheap also.. i wish i would have found you before buying the others TO-220 case crap..
wich one should i take ?
the stock one is 60V 0.022ohm 30A
the replacement you gave me is 60V 0.018ohm and 37A
IRFIZ48NPBF is 55V 0.016ohm and 36A
IRFIZ48VPBF is 60V 12m ohm and 39A
from the looks of it i would take the IRFIZ48N since the resistance is almost the same as original ... IRFIZ48V resistance seems to high right ?
would the 0.016ohm from IRFIZ48N be to low ??
do you think i should buy something closer to what i replaced earlier with NEC 2SA1129? the case is a TO-220 will it heat cause now its standing upward on the board with nothing to cool it ... or will it be fine this way..
thanks Perry
its dirt cheap also.. i wish i would have found you before buying the others TO-220 case crap..
wich one should i take ?
the stock one is 60V 0.022ohm 30A
the replacement you gave me is 60V 0.018ohm and 37A
IRFIZ48NPBF is 55V 0.016ohm and 36A
IRFIZ48VPBF is 60V 12m ohm and 39A
from the looks of it i would take the IRFIZ48N since the resistance is almost the same as original ... IRFIZ48V resistance seems to high right ?
would the 0.016ohm from IRFIZ48N be to low ??
do you think i should buy something closer to what i replaced earlier with NEC 2SA1129? the case is a TO-220 will it heat cause now its standing upward on the board with nothing to cool it ... or will it be fine this way..
thanks Perry
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I generally use a 2N6491 in applications like this one (to replace the 1243). It will have to be installed reversed also. The 1129 should be OK.
Heat will not be a problem with the TO-220 transistor.
Either of the FETs should be perfectly fine. Replace the 120 ohm gate resistors with something lower. Anything between 47 and 75 ohm should be OK.
Heat will not be a problem with the TO-220 transistor.
Either of the FETs should be perfectly fine. Replace the 120 ohm gate resistors with something lower. Anything between 47 and 75 ohm should be OK.
you mean replace the resistors whatever the components i will use to replace the original ones ?
or only if i use a particular replacement ?
what for.. the original 120ohm resistors are too high and its not a good enough current protection?
I can have
43 47 51 56 62 68 75
what would you take
or only if i use a particular replacement ?
what for.. the original 120ohm resistors are too high and its not a good enough current protection?
I can have
43 47 51 56 62 68 75
what would you take
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I wanted to know why do you suggest to change them for something lower...
do you want me to change the resistors cause i will be using something different than the STP55NE06FP and the new FETs need a lower gate resistor... or would you have suggested me to change then even if i would have kept the STP55NE06FP cause you believe 120 is too high even for the 55NE06 and they should have went lower from the start...
the 120 are all working great.. so i was wondering why replace them for something 47-75 and why not lower??
is the lower the better?
hope you understand better now!
do you want me to change the resistors cause i will be using something different than the STP55NE06FP and the new FETs need a lower gate resistor... or would you have suggested me to change then even if i would have kept the STP55NE06FP cause you believe 120 is too high even for the 55NE06 and they should have went lower from the start...
the 120 are all working great.. so i was wondering why replace them for something 47-75 and why not lower??
is the lower the better?
hope you understand better now!
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100 ohms is relatively high and, in some amps, won't control the FETs well enough to prevent cross conduction (which causes excessive heating and can cause the FETs to fail prematurely). The 120 ohms MAY have worked but the lower values will definitely work. If there's a problem with the lower value resistors, you know it's not the resistors' fault.
Actually, any resistor 1/8w or greater will work. If they were using 1/2w parts, it's likely because they were flameproof.
As you can see, when using substitute parts, repairs can be much more complicated. That's why I recommend using the original parts when they're available. I'm assuming they were not available (I didn't check).
As you can see, when using substitute parts, repairs can be much more complicated. That's why I recommend using the original parts when they're available. I'm assuming they were not available (I didn't check).
no nothing available
the stp55ne06fp doesnt exist anymore even when searching if someone could still have some left... the only thing i can get is the non FP model wich i have and i dont like using the TO-220 casing on this model so i will get the Z48's
and take those resistors instead... they will be perfect... a little safety margin with 1/4watts but not to big for no reason
Resistor; Metal Film; Res 56.2 Ohms; Pwr-Rtg 0.25 W; Tol 1%; Axial
the stp55ne06fp doesnt exist anymore even when searching if someone could still have some left... the only thing i can get is the non FP model wich i have and i dont like using the TO-220 casing on this model so i will get the Z48's
and take those resistors instead... they will be perfect... a little safety margin with 1/4watts but not to big for no reason
Resistor; Metal Film; Res 56.2 Ohms; Pwr-Rtg 0.25 W; Tol 1%; Axial
allright
so i replaced the 6 FETs with IRFIZ48N to have all the same and remove the replacement i had with a metal tab that i didnt like using the mica and shoulder washers... and i replaced all the gate resistors and fixed the blown trace on the board... the amp power up fine and its looking good...
but i dont want to try it in the car and mess something up
what should i check to confirm everything is working fine ? the output to the speakers on a scope maybe ?
lmk what is next
thanks
so i replaced the 6 FETs with IRFIZ48N to have all the same and remove the replacement i had with a metal tab that i didnt like using the mica and shoulder washers... and i replaced all the gate resistors and fixed the blown trace on the board... the amp power up fine and its looking good...
but i dont want to try it in the car and mess something up
what should i check to confirm everything is working fine ? the output to the speakers on a scope maybe ?
lmk what is next
thanks
With everything clamped and a 10 amp fuse in the B+ line, the amp is well protected in case there is a problem. Connect speakers and see if it will produce clean audio at a low to moderate level. If nothing (especially the power supply FETs) gets hot, it's likely OK.
You can check it on a scope if you'd like to confirm that the output is clean. If you know what you're looking for on the power supply gates, you can check the drive there also.
You can check it on a scope if you'd like to confirm that the output is clean. If you know what you're looking for on the power supply gates, you can check the drive there also.
I tried it in the car and with very low volume everything seems to play fine .. good quality bass and high's... so i crank it up a little and nothing was getting hot.. still the same quality so i got to about 1/2 the volume and still looking good... so i remove the inline fuse holder to connect the 8awg wire directly on the amp so that i dont blow the fuse at higher levels and everything is still looking good but i noticed to much bass going at the speakers i am trying to find some crossovers to install and then i will test it at 70% of the HU volume and tweak the gain so that everything will be set final...
but for now looking real good... nothing gets hot at all
I will remove the other gmx962 i have in the car to replace it with that one to give it a good testing
I will let you know how it turns out
let me know how you set the gain personally/... with a scope or something to match the gain to the output voltage of the HU ?? or do you set the HU at about 75% the volume (what will be the max volume when listening so that there is no distortion) and simply match the gain so that the output is nice and clean without some ugly sounds or distortion??
but for now looking real good... nothing gets hot at all
I will remove the other gmx962 i have in the car to replace it with that one to give it a good testing
I will let you know how it turns out
let me know how you set the gain personally/... with a scope or something to match the gain to the output voltage of the HU ?? or do you set the HU at about 75% the volume (what will be the max volume when listening so that there is no distortion) and simply match the gain so that the output is nice and clean without some ugly sounds or distortion??
I don't know who you asking about the gains...
To set the gains to where you never get any distortion, you need an enormous amount of power if you're going to ever listen to the system at anything that would be considered loud.
In my opinion, you set them so that you can use most of the volume control's range (or as much of it as you want to use -- some volume controls are slow and take too long to go from low to high). You'll have to use common sense and listen for distortion to determine when the amplifiers or speakers have reached their limits.
To set the gains to where you never get any distortion, you need an enormous amount of power if you're going to ever listen to the system at anything that would be considered loud.
In my opinion, you set them so that you can use most of the volume control's range (or as much of it as you want to use -- some volume controls are slow and take too long to go from low to high). You'll have to use common sense and listen for distortion to determine when the amplifiers or speakers have reached their limits.
hi Perry
the amp seems to be fine its been playing for 1-2 hours today without any issue...
the only problem i have is that there is way too much bass in my mid's and i know i can still crank up without any distortion its only the bass that starts to play like **** cause there is too much... so i was thinking i should use a passive crossover to filter the lows but when looking in my stuff i have nothing good.. only some boxes with 2 separate TW and WF outputs wich is no good since my 6x9" and 5" only have one connection for both the mid and the tweeter so i was looking at your site and was thinking about using an inline capacitor of about 100 or 47 uF i dont know if this could help... i dont know exactly the range getting at the speakers that makes them having too much bass... do you think i would need something more than a first order high pass..
also what voltage nonpolarized capacitors do i need 50V 100V ??
I wired my 2 left speakers togheter 1 6x9 in the rear and 1 5" 200 in the front (200 watts each) wired in parrallel together for a total of 2ohm and same thing on the other side just to let you know
the amp seems to be fine its been playing for 1-2 hours today without any issue...
the only problem i have is that there is way too much bass in my mid's and i know i can still crank up without any distortion its only the bass that starts to play like **** cause there is too much... so i was thinking i should use a passive crossover to filter the lows but when looking in my stuff i have nothing good.. only some boxes with 2 separate TW and WF outputs wich is no good since my 6x9" and 5" only have one connection for both the mid and the tweeter so i was looking at your site and was thinking about using an inline capacitor of about 100 or 47 uF i dont know if this could help... i dont know exactly the range getting at the speakers that makes them having too much bass... do you think i would need something more than a first order high pass..
also what voltage nonpolarized capacitors do i need 50V 100V ??
I wired my 2 left speakers togheter 1 6x9 in the rear and 1 5" 200 in the front (200 watts each) wired in parrallel together for a total of 2ohm and same thing on the other side just to let you know
Please leave blank lines between topics/questions and please use proper grammar/punctuation. It gets very fatiguing reading without proper punctuation and with everything running together. It takes reading 3-4 times to understand what you're asking.
It's probably better not to address me directly. Others may be able to answer your questions but won't if they feel that you don't want anyone's advice but mine.
50 or 100v caps would be OK with the pioneer amp.
It's probably better not to address me directly. Others may be able to answer your questions but won't if they feel that you don't want anyone's advice but mine.
50 or 100v caps would be OK with the pioneer amp.
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