vitalstates said:
4 Amps at 13.5 volts is more than good enough. Unfortunately, this is a Euro product, and the plug and voltage is different than in the US. If he can find one that will work at his home, that would be a nice one.
another recommendation would be to get a variable voltage unit, that is also set up for an auto plug in. That way you can also play with units that belong in cars. There are a lot of models out there.
Parts Express has all sorts of power supplies located right here. Take your pick, but remember, the more amperage you can pay for, the better off you are. Of course that costs more too.
vitalstates said:it looks like it has a uk plug but I'm pretty sure Greg knows how to put a plug on a wire......
• 1.2m IEC mains power lead with UK plug and 8 of the most popular power tips included
Means that you just toss the UK mains lead (or not have them ship it at all) and use one of the ones that have been accumulating from all your dead/obselete computer kit. I literaly have 100s of them.
dave
room too big for amp32?
everyone seem to suggest I am having clipping due to inadequate power from my amp32 (t-amp clone), it is in this large room and like to jazz guitar music that require quick transient attack...
Love the speakers though...
Right now I am driving the amp with 12V, 2Amp regulated power supply and plan to upgrade to 13.8V, 5Amp regulated power supply, should this be an improvement?
gychang
everyone seem to suggest I am having clipping due to inadequate power from my amp32 (t-amp clone), it is in this large room and like to jazz guitar music that require quick transient attack...
Love the speakers though...
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Right now I am driving the amp with 12V, 2Amp regulated power supply and plan to upgrade to 13.8V, 5Amp regulated power supply, should this be an improvement?
gychang
If I were you I would try to upgrade to a more powerful amplifier than the Amp32, A 1.8 volt increase most likely will have little to no audible difference, and the amperage doesn't really matter how high it is so long as its enough...
So if your amp draws 3 amps at 13.8 volts at full tilt, it will draw that amperage no matter how much amperage your power supply can, well, supply. It will only take what it wants
I don't know how big that room is, but it looks like a big space to fill (with high ceilings)...
Lets put it this way, in my living room (25 x 35 feet) I find myself still wanting more with around 30rms...Keep in mind with the tweeter in parallel with the pioneer, the B20 will only get half the power or even less (since your tweeter is 6ohms I believe), so 10-15 USABLE watts from your little AMP32 becomes 5-8 or less for the pioneer....
Edit: Beautiful room BTW
Edit Edit: Forgot to mention I also have the Pioneer in a Half-Chang, with basically the same tweeter...
So if your amp draws 3 amps at 13.8 volts at full tilt, it will draw that amperage no matter how much amperage your power supply can, well, supply. It will only take what it wants
I don't know how big that room is, but it looks like a big space to fill (with high ceilings)...
Lets put it this way, in my living room (25 x 35 feet) I find myself still wanting more with around 30rms...Keep in mind with the tweeter in parallel with the pioneer, the B20 will only get half the power or even less (since your tweeter is 6ohms I believe), so 10-15 USABLE watts from your little AMP32 becomes 5-8 or less for the pioneer....
Edit: Beautiful room BTW
Edit Edit: Forgot to mention I also have the Pioneer in a Half-Chang, with basically the same tweeter...
planet10 said:
A little more explanation.... as the B20 rolls off at the top its impedance climbs. With the series cap on the tweeter its impedance becomes very large at low frequencies.
So if you take say 6 ohms and parallel it with a very large impedance you get 6 ohms... so (ignoring overlap) all the power goes to the B20 below the XO frequency, and all goes to the tweeter above. On average (with a large variance) half the power demand from music is below 300 Hz, and the other half above 300 Hz... so when playing real music the B20 gets most of the power most of the time.
dave
As-is, an improved PSU might improve things, though it's more likely going to improve the quality of what you already have; that's great, but not likely to address the problem you have at the moment. You do have two viable options though.
1) A new, more powerful amplifier. As GM pointed out, all other things being equal, the more clean power you can feed your B20s the better, so that amplifier headroom becomes a non-issue. You could apply the same to any drive unit / speaker for that matter. Talking purely about power, you can't have too much. The potential downside to that of course is that big power usually equates to sacrifies elsewhere, which is one of the reasons why low power amps are popular / respected.
2) Rather than buying a new amp, given that your Amp32 has a good reputation for what it is, and accepting the fact that FR drivers are never going to be the dynamic champions of the world, spend the money on a pair of FE207Es instead, which are far more sensitive (and when you've got an amp with 10%THD at 25w, you need all the sensitivity you can get), and a better match to the amplifier. You'll also get some major improvements in midrange detail, a bit more LF gain (because this is the driver I designed this cabinet for in the first place) etc. Just a thought. You could upgrade the PSU at a later date for added refinement.
They look great in that room BTW. FWIW, you might want to try swapping them round so the tweeter is on the inner, not outer side.
1) A new, more powerful amplifier. As GM pointed out, all other things being equal, the more clean power you can feed your B20s the better, so that amplifier headroom becomes a non-issue. You could apply the same to any drive unit / speaker for that matter. Talking purely about power, you can't have too much. The potential downside to that of course is that big power usually equates to sacrifies elsewhere, which is one of the reasons why low power amps are popular / respected.
2) Rather than buying a new amp, given that your Amp32 has a good reputation for what it is, and accepting the fact that FR drivers are never going to be the dynamic champions of the world, spend the money on a pair of FE207Es instead, which are far more sensitive (and when you've got an amp with 10%THD at 25w, you need all the sensitivity you can get), and a better match to the amplifier. You'll also get some major improvements in midrange detail, a bit more LF gain (because this is the driver I designed this cabinet for in the first place) etc. Just a thought. You could upgrade the PSU at a later date for added refinement.
They look great in that room BTW. FWIW, you might want to try swapping them round so the tweeter is on the inner, not outer side.
B20 = 89.8db 1w / 1m according to John Wycoff's measurements & it has a reputation for needing more grunt than the specs. would suggest. FE207E = 95db 1w / 1m. Doesn't sound much of an increase, but remember that for every 3db increase in SPLs, you need to double the amplifier power, so those 5db of extra efficiency the 207 has are in fact very handy indeed, especially with a low power amp.
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