" ... Is that an optical illusion or do you have the ground lead screwed into the wood? ..."
Actually, depending on conditions its not a bad idea: it keeps that pesky lead from flopping around inside the case, it allows an easy test point for taking meter readings (inside and from the outside through bolt) while hunting for any ground loops, and if the wood (MDF?) is wet from spilled beer or whatever it may actually establish a high impedence ground to the case.
Actually, depending on conditions its not a bad idea: it keeps that pesky lead from flopping around inside the case, it allows an easy test point for taking meter readings (inside and from the outside through bolt) while hunting for any ground loops, and if the wood (MDF?) is wet from spilled beer or whatever it may actually establish a high impedence ground to the case.
hahaha yea, It was just a left over from the power socket, and thought... meh who needs an earth 
and didn't want it flapping around 
I will be putting it in a metal case at some point, maybe over the christmas break, maybe leave it as is and just get some metal paint spray cans and give it a few coats
and didn't want it flapping around I will be putting it in a metal case at some point, maybe over the christmas break, maybe leave it as is and just get some metal paint spray cans and give it a few coats
Aikido-based linestage
Here's my Aikdio-based linestage, using Bas's boards. All 6SN7s.
I mounted the boards, rectifier, and the big ASC caps on 2" ceramic standoffs, so they poke out the top. And the selector and volume pot are mounted at the back near the inputs.
I still need to make an adequate cover...right now I am just using a sheet of perforated aluminum from Home Depot. The chassis itself is cannabalized from an old Golden Tube Audio preamp...I have the original cover, but no way currently to cut the required holes in 12 gauge steel.
I'm also thinking about making a brand-new cover...and painting it dark red like the Cary Audio preamps...I love that look...
Here's my Aikdio-based linestage, using Bas's boards. All 6SN7s.
I mounted the boards, rectifier, and the big ASC caps on 2" ceramic standoffs, so they poke out the top. And the selector and volume pot are mounted at the back near the inputs.
I still need to make an adequate cover...right now I am just using a sheet of perforated aluminum from Home Depot. The chassis itself is cannabalized from an old Golden Tube Audio preamp...I have the original cover, but no way currently to cut the required holes in 12 gauge steel.
I'm also thinking about making a brand-new cover...and painting it dark red like the Cary Audio preamps...I love that look...
Attachments
Bas Horneman said:
Thanks...this was my first DIY build.
The sound? Quite simply....amazing. The clarity is better than anything I've heard, and frankly I didn't know my speakers could reproduce bass that low. It's definately a reference piece in my system. The Aikido topology really does remove a lot of distortion and coloration from the linestage...
The bad thing is I now know just how poorly recorded most of my CDs are...time to finally get a turntable.
I've got AC on the heaters, with zero noise and hum.
I used teflon CAT-5 for all of the B+ and Signal wiring, other than the ground wires.
jayme: " ... The bad thing is I now know just how poorly recorded most of my CDs are...time to finally get a turntable. ..."
Very impressive "hardware hack" = sourcing "cannabalized" chassis and other parts. (You may eventually have some galvanic interaction between the steel chassis and your aluminum grid work ... maybe not.)
Is it possible for you to evaluate a 96k or 192k DVD-A instead of your current CD player / discs? I have just started exploring this area and the results are amazingly better than 44/48k CDs ... almost as good as vinyl ... almost.
" ... I've got AC on the heaters, with zero noise and hum. I used teflon CAT-5 for all of the B+ and Signal wiring, other than the ground wires. ..."
Got scimatics or wiring diagram ? Interested to see your approach to hum & noise removal.
Very impressive "hardware hack" = sourcing "cannabalized" chassis and other parts. (You may eventually have some galvanic interaction between the steel chassis and your aluminum grid work ... maybe not.)
Is it possible for you to evaluate a 96k or 192k DVD-A instead of your current CD player / discs? I have just started exploring this area and the results are amazingly better than 44/48k CDs ... almost as good as vinyl ... almost.
" ... I've got AC on the heaters, with zero noise and hum. I used teflon CAT-5 for all of the B+ and Signal wiring, other than the ground wires. ..."
Got scimatics or wiring diagram ? Interested to see your approach to hum & noise removal.
Latest project up and running.
This is a four channel OTL. The input tube is 6C45, phase splitter and drivers are 6H6 and the power tubes are six PL519 per channel. News is that PL519 is in "enhanced triode" mode, i.e an extra positive voltage referring to the anode (30 volt in this application) is connected to the screen grid. I do not know of anyone building an OTL this way before.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
This is a four channel OTL. The input tube is 6C45, phase splitter and drivers are 6H6 and the power tubes are six PL519 per channel. News is that PL519 is in "enhanced triode" mode, i.e an extra positive voltage referring to the anode (30 volt in this application) is connected to the screen grid. I do not know of anyone building an OTL this way before.
