Need help, it's still faulty. It does the same as when I've tried it, after warm refuse or have hard times to read TOC or sometimes 1st track.
When I've changed the small cap at SAA7310 pin 29 (PLL circuit, what is that?) to a giant one the error was the same but always, even cold, maybe it's a clue. Then I've fitted back the old elcap 2.2µF.
When warm and do that a fast on/off from the main and here we go again. I'll try to change the Motor driving opamp's caps (they are still the old ones) and maybe -if I can find some infos if non polar is OK- a 2.2 film cap at pin 29 "PD/OC" of the SAA7310.
Any input weclome!
Matthieu
When I've changed the small cap at SAA7310 pin 29 (PLL circuit, what is that?) to a giant one the error was the same but always, even cold, maybe it's a clue. Then I've fitted back the old elcap 2.2µF.
When warm and do that a fast on/off from the main and here we go again. I'll try to change the Motor driving opamp's caps (they are still the old ones) and maybe -if I can find some infos if non polar is OK- a 2.2 film cap at pin 29 "PD/OC" of the SAA7310.
Any input weclome!
Matthieu
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What about this design from Lukasz?
Fet-ishizator
It looks interesting for the TDA1541A, only the absent of the analog filter might be a problem as I am playing in NOS mode.
Very promising,
but I'll keep this thread for the TDA1547 and will do a new one for the CD-40, you have to wait a while (Xmas if all is fine) to see it online
But I can say that's the kind of idea I was looking for, easy to built, all info provided and why not order some clean PCB for at least us?
Matthieu
but I'll keep this thread for the TDA1547 and will do a new one for the CD-40, you have to wait a while (Xmas if all is fine) to see it online
But I can say that's the kind of idea I was looking for, easy to built, all info provided and why not order some clean PCB for at least us?
Matthieu
Very promising,
but I'll keep this thread for the TDA1547 and will do a new one for the CD-40, you have to wait a while (Xmas if all is fine) to see it online
But I can say that's the kind of idea I was looking for, easy to built, all info provided and why not order some clean PCB for at least us?
Matthieu
Sure thing Matthieu, when ordering PCB's count me in!
Up!
I will try to find what can cause that, the film cap or newer ones at driver changed nothing. Defo too slow at accessing track 1 in best case, error in worst one and "loaded" message when it can't even access TOC.
That PLL is fundamental to the decoder pulling the data off the disc cleanly. Perhaps see p.22 of the datasheet and try the values shown..:
http://www.acoustica.org.uk/misc/SAA7310.pdf
Non-polar or film types should be ok here; I would try a film though (no DC leakage)
If the disc reports as loaded, even if track 1 doesn't start properly, the laser is OK and it is something else failing - like the PLL lock. Making sure the disc motor circuit is performing well is a good idea, though.
http://www.acoustica.org.uk/misc/SAA7310.pdf
Non-polar or film types should be ok here; I would try a film though (no DC leakage)
If the disc reports as loaded, even if track 1 doesn't start properly, the laser is OK and it is something else failing - like the PLL lock. Making sure the disc motor circuit is performing well is a good idea, though.
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Yep Martin I've checked this, but it seems to be more a random problem than this one. I did put the player in trouble but there is a real problem anyway. Like the disc motor does not spin fast enough to catch track 1 or even read the TOC sometimes, if I ask for tracks in the middle of the disc it's fine. I'll have to read the many threads about bearing, plates and such... dead CDM9 :'(
Sounds like "* Disc spins but at too slow a rate or is erratic or needs some help (weak
motor or dead spot). Reading of disc directory may be erratic. (Try
helping motor out by hand)."
I'm scared to damage the mech when having a look...
Sounds like "* Disc spins but at too slow a rate or is erratic or needs some help (weak
motor or dead spot). Reading of disc directory may be erratic. (Try
helping motor out by hand)."
I'm scared to damage the mech when having a look...
The cdm9 is pretty robust IMO.
If it is the regular CDM9 (not CDM9pro with Hall-effect motor) it has a simple Mabuchi disc motor with brushes. You can unsolder the black and red wires on the bottom of it, apply 5-9v for a short moment to spin it up/clean the commutator and try again The merest drop of oil on its bearings may help.
If it is the regular CDM9 (not CDM9pro with Hall-effect motor) it has a simple Mabuchi disc motor with brushes. You can unsolder the black and red wires on the bottom of it, apply 5-9v for a short moment to spin it up/clean the commutator and try again
The merest drop of oil on its bearings may help.
Let me guess... some Naim stuff have CDM9
Yes it's a brush one. Nice tip for 5/9V and I will apply 9V (5 secs?) and a drop of... WD40 is nice? or Royal Purpule, it's good for rotary must be good for Mabuchi that's so annoying
Thanks for helping Sir!
I hope it is that, I hope it is that, I hope...
edit: have removed a RF-310T from old CDM12... not the same... stupid me!
Yes it's a brush one. Nice tip for 5/9V and I will apply 9V (5 secs?) and a drop of... WD40 is nice? or Royal Purpule, it's good for rotary must be good for Mabuchi
that's so annoying Thanks for helping Sir!
I hope it is that, I hope it is that, I hope...
edit: have removed a RF-310T from old CDM12... not the same... stupid me!
I'm fishing:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/155320-cdm9-65-problem-help-needed.html
If no answer in 7 days and no way to play my hundreds of CDR in normal condition I put it on eBay.
Anyway, I'll try the DOS in this weekend, just to see.
Matthieu
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/155320-cdm9-65-problem-help-needed.html
If no answer in 7 days and no way to play my hundreds of CDR in normal condition I put it on eBay.
Anyway, I'll try the DOS in this weekend, just to see.
Matthieu
Hotel California: this could be heaven or this could be hell...
Hi guys,
here I go with a CD-53 ars at the CD951's one
Before this, it was OEM output caps bypassed with MKS 1µF (well, won't be worse than dead elcaps!) and LM4562, 4.7µF after +/-15V regulators (yes 4.7!!!) are now Cerafine 100µF.
It was more balanced in frequencies than my CD-53 wich have clocks and regulated drivers and load of caps for now, CD-43 output stage but MKPs to RCAs.
CD-53 was more detailled, a bit more bass and that's it. So in this state the 951 was the one to live with, CD-53 wanted more work.
But now it's another story, DOS from Ray's site ( check the CD63 & 67 thread ) for balanced voltage output DACs. It's a direct fit, and I also used my MKP/Russian Caps combo.
And well also fited in a dedicated 7805 with a LPF on its supply at the SAA7350.
Guess what? Wow! I've the "rediscover my discs" deases again! It's wider, deeper, cleaner, bottom is just far better than CD-53, it's so well balanced, not bright, not dark.
Voices have no fat on lowers like CD-53, it's already very good.
So now I'm a bit disapointed, CD-53 need so much work to sing ( but with the DOS it will ), this one already sings high end, it might be a wonder with clock and clean PSUs...
This could be heaven or this could be hell...
If I mod it, how I'll get back on my CD-53, cost of a CDM9, have to invest in 3 players... if one is sold then only 2... what should I do...
If only there was a garantee that money invested (and work!) will be back... it's a risky job there. Risk on 3 players...
Damn, as we say in french let's wait tomorrow as " la nuit porte conseil "...
Sell it... but I just can't kill the beast...
Hi guys,
here I go with a CD-53 ars at the CD951's one
Before this, it was OEM output caps bypassed with MKS 1µF (well, won't be worse than dead elcaps!) and LM4562, 4.7µF after +/-15V regulators (yes 4.7!!!) are now Cerafine 100µF.
It was more balanced in frequencies than my CD-53 wich have clocks and regulated drivers and load of caps for now, CD-43 output stage but MKPs to RCAs.
CD-53 was more detailled, a bit more bass and that's it. So in this state the 951 was the one to live with, CD-53 wanted more work.
But now it's another story, DOS from Ray's site ( check the CD63 & 67 thread ) for balanced voltage output DACs. It's a direct fit, and I also used my MKP/Russian Caps combo.
And well also fited in a dedicated 7805 with a LPF on its supply at the SAA7350.
Guess what? Wow! I've the "rediscover my discs" deases again! It's wider, deeper, cleaner, bottom is just far better than CD-53, it's so well balanced, not bright, not dark.
Voices have no fat on lowers like CD-53, it's already very good.
So now I'm a bit disapointed, CD-53 need so much work to sing ( but with the DOS it will
), this one already sings high end, it might be a wonder with clock and clean PSUs...This could be heaven or this could be hell...
If I mod it, how I'll get back on my CD-53, cost of a CDM9, have to invest in 3 players... if one is sold then only 2... what should I do...
If only there was a garantee that money invested (and work!) will be back... it's a risky job there. Risk on 3 players...
Damn, as we say in french let's wait tomorrow as " la nuit porte conseil "...
Sell it... but I just can't kill the beast...
Attachments
Congratulations on the progress with the CD951. I have modded many CD950s, which I believe are almost identical to the 951, and results have been much better than anything I could achieve with the Marantz 63/67.
For coupling caps I remove them (bypass by wire) completely. They are not needed. Just check dc offset before using. Nothing beat a coupling cap like wire.
My mods were mostly before the LM4562 was introduced, and the most success was with LM6172. If I had to do a unit now, I would use the LM4562.
The bulk of the mods were power supply related. Schottky diodes throughout, Panasonic FM caps, and new separate regulated power to the analog section of the TDA1547. This was the trickiest, building up a small regulator boards and cutting off the original supply tracks, but it brings new life to the player.
For coupling caps I remove them (bypass by wire) completely. They are not needed. Just check dc offset before using. Nothing beat a coupling cap like wire.
My mods were mostly before the LM4562 was introduced, and the most success was with LM6172. If I had to do a unit now, I would use the LM4562.
The bulk of the mods were power supply related. Schottky diodes throughout, Panasonic FM caps, and new separate regulated power to the analog section of the TDA1547. This was the trickiest, building up a small regulator boards and cutting off the original supply tracks, but it brings new life to the player.
Hi MB,
right now I don't use the player's analog stage anymore. It's a discrete stage and this does a lot of DC, anyway sound is so much imporved that even with coupling caps it's better than opamp based output.
As for me my CD53 (same as 63) is very well modded (well beside the output stage is in the CD951... ) and sings quite nicely.
But I must admit the CD951 sings well for less modding job.
Matthieu
right now I don't use the player's analog stage anymore. It's a discrete stage and this does a lot of DC, anyway sound is so much imporved that even with coupling caps it's better than opamp based output.
As for me my CD53 (same as 63) is very well modded (well beside the output stage is in the CD951... ) and sings quite nicely.
But I must admit the CD951 sings well for less modding job.
Matthieu
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