DIYAUDIO.COM Audiofest and Swapmeet - UK
Slightly Off-Topic
Pinkmouse is trying to start a UK DiyAudio.com meet etc in 2007.
Somewhere in the Midlands.
See :-
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=94337
Andy
Slightly Off-Topic
Pinkmouse is trying to start a UK DiyAudio.com meet etc in 2007.
Somewhere in the Midlands.
See :-
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=94337
Andy
104 service manual
hello again..
i don't seem to be able to privately email other users on this forum yet... i think i need to make a few more posts..
i have a very flexible email account though for the service manual...
could BernardW or anyone else who has it please send it to: ady at spamcop.net
many thanks
adrian
hello again..
i don't seem to be able to privately email other users on this forum yet... i think i need to make a few more posts..
i have a very flexible email account though for the service manual...
could BernardW or anyone else who has it please send it to: ady at spamcop.net
many thanks
adrian
Just picked up a CD204 in great condition.
Everything seems to work fine, tray, display, fast TOC read, navigation etc.
Only one audio problem: deafening noise and distortion on both output channels. <G>
When I put a working decoder board from another CD204 in this machine everything sounds perfect, so I suspect that the fault lies in the new player's decoder board.
Any hints on how to trace this problem?
Voltages measured at the power supply board (with no load attached) seem reasonably close, but not spot on. (-11.95 instead of -12v, +4.85 instead of +5v).
Any suggestions are welcome to restore this beauty to its old glory.
Cheers El_Will
Everything seems to work fine, tray, display, fast TOC read, navigation etc.
Only one audio problem: deafening noise and distortion on both output channels. <G>
When I put a working decoder board from another CD204 in this machine everything sounds perfect, so I suspect that the fault lies in the new player's decoder board.
Any hints on how to trace this problem?
Voltages measured at the power supply board (with no load attached) seem reasonably close, but not spot on. (-11.95 instead of -12v, +4.85 instead of +5v).
Any suggestions are welcome to restore this beauty to its old glory.
Cheers El_Will
curse of the griplets ?
well you could do a lot worse than replace all the griplets. I know this fix sounds like when you have a fault with a PC and they say "have you tried turning it off and on again ", but it does often work. Take a look back through this thread or drop me a line at jonathan . ives @ gmail . com, i can send you an article on this. It's not too hard and seems to have fixed a whole bunch of problems including my not reading the TOC
well you could do a lot worse than replace all the griplets. I know this fix sounds like when you have a fault with a PC and they say "have you tried turning it off and on again ", but it does often work. Take a look back through this thread or drop me a line at jonathan . ives @ gmail . com, i can send you an article on this. It's not too hard and seems to have fixed a whole bunch of problems including my not reading the TOC
I will give that a shot tomorrow.
I can actually hear the music on the CD, but it is very distorted and there is a lot of digital noise added to the sound.
How close do the voltages actually have to read on a multimeter? Is +4.85v goor enough for +5v or does it need to spot on?
cheers El_Will
I can actually hear the music on the CD, but it is very distorted and there is a lot of digital noise added to the sound.
How close do the voltages actually have to read on a multimeter? Is +4.85v goor enough for +5v or does it need to spot on?
cheers El_Will
Sounds familiar. I also have a CD204 and some 12 years ago I had the same problem. A very loud noise and somewhere in the background a little music. At that time my cure was buying a Marantz 63.
Just recently I did just two things:
re-solder all wire through connections (really cleaning it and resolder with fresh solder). Btw mine does not have griplets, but uses wiring for the through connections.
The lens was very dirty, after cleaning it the player is back to life again. The only thing left to do is make the driving belt for the tray a bit more rough. The tray is not closing completely when I insert a CD. Read on another forum that cleaning the belt with turpentine will make it more rough. I think it is worth to give it a try.
Bernard
Just recently I did just two things:
re-solder all wire through connections (really cleaning it and resolder with fresh solder). Btw mine does not have griplets, but uses wiring for the through connections.
The lens was very dirty, after cleaning it the player is back to life again. The only thing left to do is make the driving belt for the tray a bit more rough. The tray is not closing completely when I insert a CD. Read on another forum that cleaning the belt with turpentine will make it more rough. I think it is worth to give it a try.
Bernard
No luck today with my CD204...
Did all the griplets, resoldered every solderpoint on the decoder board, replaced SAA7030, 2x TDA1540, SAA7000, 2 x opamp and the +5 v regulator on the PSU board
Still: deafening distorted music + noise <G>.
If I swap in a known to be good CD204 decoder board, everything is fine with this player.
I guess I will be in the market for CD204 number 3.
Thank you guys for your help and suggestions
Cheers EL_Will
Did all the griplets, resoldered every solderpoint on the decoder board, replaced SAA7030, 2x TDA1540, SAA7000, 2 x opamp and the +5 v regulator on the PSU board
Still: deafening distorted music + noise <G>.
If I swap in a known to be good CD204 decoder board, everything is fine with this player.
I guess I will be in the market for CD204 number 3.
Thank you guys for your help and suggestions
Cheers EL_Will
Hi,
Maybe have you already done this (at least it's not mentionned in the previous posts), but you could maybe try to change all decoder electrolytics? Anyhow, removing the old blue Philips caps and using good quality new ones will improve the sound. But as you've changed the DACs and the SAA7030, my suggestion may be useless.
Good luck...
Henri
Maybe have you already done this (at least it's not mentionned in the previous posts), but you could maybe try to change all decoder electrolytics? Anyhow, removing the old blue Philips caps and using good quality new ones will improve the sound. But as you've changed the DACs and the SAA7030, my suggestion may be useless.
Good luck...
Henri
Recieved another CD104 this week.
The laser was said to be defective on this machine, but as I was mainly interested in the servo and decoding boards I went for it anyway.
The disc clamp was laying loose in the CD tray so someone obviously had tried to "fix" this player before letting go of it.
After putting the clamp mechanism correctly on the tray arm, the player managed to open and close the tray correctly to accept a CD.
TOC was not read and the CD was spinning counterclockwise at high speed. Putting known good servo and decoder boards into this chassis made the player come alive and kicking with all functions working. Even the tray door closed completely on its own, a rare sight with dirty banged-up CD104's in 2007.
So i decided to remove the griplets and through the board wiring on the original servo and decoder board.
Method used:
- The old solder was removed completely with solder wick on both sides of the boards, exposing the griplets.
- The three tabs of the griplet were carefully bent upwards to the center of the hole, with a very small screwdriver.
- This enabled the griplets to be pushed through and out of the hole, with a little bit of carefull force. (No need for drilling here, the griplets will fall out if you did your desoldering well enough).
- ** Push the griplets out of the board from the side of the board that has the traces on it, pushing from the solid coper side will risk damaging the traces **.
- Put a bit of wire through the hole and solder on both sides.
The result is a now fully functioning CD104, without the slightest trace of a " laser Problem".
Moral to the story: Jives is right, DO THE GRIPLETS and be happy!
I will mod this player into NON-OS. To my ears the TDA1540's really benefit from this mod.
cheers El_Will
The laser was said to be defective on this machine, but as I was mainly interested in the servo and decoding boards I went for it anyway.
The disc clamp was laying loose in the CD tray so someone obviously had tried to "fix" this player before letting go of it.
After putting the clamp mechanism correctly on the tray arm, the player managed to open and close the tray correctly to accept a CD.
TOC was not read and the CD was spinning counterclockwise at high speed. Putting known good servo and decoder boards into this chassis made the player come alive and kicking with all functions working. Even the tray door closed completely on its own, a rare sight with dirty banged-up CD104's in 2007.
So i decided to remove the griplets and through the board wiring on the original servo and decoder board.
Method used:
- The old solder was removed completely with solder wick on both sides of the boards, exposing the griplets.
- The three tabs of the griplet were carefully bent upwards to the center of the hole, with a very small screwdriver.
- This enabled the griplets to be pushed through and out of the hole, with a little bit of carefull force. (No need for drilling here, the griplets will fall out if you did your desoldering well enough).
- ** Push the griplets out of the board from the side of the board that has the traces on it, pushing from the solid coper side will risk damaging the traces **.
- Put a bit of wire through the hole and solder on both sides.
The result is a now fully functioning CD104, without the slightest trace of a " laser Problem".
Moral to the story: Jives is right, DO THE GRIPLETS and be happy!
I will mod this player into NON-OS. To my ears the TDA1540's really benefit from this mod.
cheers El_Will
glad it worked, you just have to get the CD204 working now 
Mine remains Oversampled as , for various reasons, I'd like to keep it mostly "in the spirit" of the original, including keeping the NE5532 opamps
One thing I did do though was to remove the DC blocking caps. You need to be careful, but in my case my Quad 44 preamp has DC blocking between stages so it was safe. This did benefit the sound, along with replacing the +/- 12 caps on the decoder board, the ones which decouple the opamps supplies (amongst other things).
If you need to have some protection against offset,I have used cheap and small Nitai bipolar caps as DC blockers in the past. with good results. They will fit reasonably easily whereas plastic film and others of suitable value will be huge. Black gates are also good (I'm told) but ridiculously expensive IMHO
Mine remains Oversampled as , for various reasons, I'd like to keep it mostly "in the spirit" of the original, including keeping the NE5532 opamps
One thing I did do though was to remove the DC blocking caps. You need to be careful, but in my case my Quad 44 preamp has DC blocking between stages so it was safe. This did benefit the sound, along with replacing the +/- 12 caps on the decoder board, the ones which decouple the opamps supplies (amongst other things).
If you need to have some protection against offset,I have used cheap and small Nitai bipolar caps as DC blockers in the past. with good results. They will fit reasonably easily whereas plastic film and others of suitable value will be huge. Black gates are also good (I'm told) but ridiculously expensive IMHO
I gave up on the second CD 204's decorder card for the time being. There is one more thing to try and that is to replace all the caps one of these days.
One of the CD104's will stay totally original as I must say that the sound is very good as is. These are very special players.
I usually keep the NE5332N opamps because I like the sound. Sometimes I try OPA627 when a player is on the harsh side, but I allways keep the NE5332N close at hand and very often swap back.
I generally try to stay as close to the original design of the players and usually do not like most of the tweaks that people suggest and "sounding better" is a very personal opinion. "Sounding different" is usually more descriptive.
Even modding to NON-OS does not allways make a player sound "better" but as far as musical timing goes, it usually makes the players sound more natural.
One last question, how spot on do the supply voltages need to be. Is 4,8 volt good enough or should it be 5 volt bang-on?
One of the CD104's will stay totally original as I must say that the sound is very good as is. These are very special players.
I usually keep the NE5332N opamps because I like the sound. Sometimes I try OPA627 when a player is on the harsh side, but I allways keep the NE5332N close at hand and very often swap back.
I generally try to stay as close to the original design of the players and usually do not like most of the tweaks that people suggest and "sounding better" is a very personal opinion. "Sounding different" is usually more descriptive.
Even modding to NON-OS does not allways make a player sound "better" but as far as musical timing goes, it usually makes the players sound more natural.
One last question, how spot on do the supply voltages need to be. Is 4,8 volt good enough or should it be 5 volt bang-on?
Hi El_Will,
I'm glad the griplet trick worked well once again. Jonathan explained it to me as well and my CD104 works normally now. Hmm "normally" is not exactly the proper word, as there is still a motor adjustment problem
For your CD204, you could maybe try to change one cap on the decoder board. It's the 1µF 63V, which is a Nichicon cap. These Nichicon caps are reliable, but when they fail they generate very strange phenomenons. In my CD104, one or more of the 33µF 16V Nichicon caps in the PSU badly altered the sound, making it sound like a very damaged LP. In my CD150, it created random big and scary noises. I've changed all of them, except the biggest (3300, 1500 and 1000µF usw...) in the CD104 PSU. So, if there is one cap to change on the decoder board, it might be the Nichicon one.
Henri
I'm glad the griplet trick worked well once again. Jonathan explained it to me as well and my CD104 works normally now. Hmm "normally" is not exactly the proper word, as there is still a motor adjustment problem
For your CD204, you could maybe try to change one cap on the decoder board. It's the 1µF 63V, which is a Nichicon cap. These Nichicon caps are reliable, but when they fail they generate very strange phenomenons. In my CD104, one or more of the 33µF 16V Nichicon caps in the PSU badly altered the sound, making it sound like a very damaged LP. In my CD150, it created random big and scary noises. I've changed all of them, except the biggest (3300, 1500 and 1000µF usw...) in the CD104 PSU. So, if there is one cap to change on the decoder board, it might be the Nichicon one.
Henri