Pensils for Alpair 10.3 & Alpair 10p

so close to finally finishing

The paint finish on my suprabaffles has been a pain but they're almost liveable. Should have drivers in by Saturday. A few more pictures coming.
 

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The A10 drivers really need an extended and gentle breakin. My suggestion is to listen during the later stages of breakin and experiment with speaker placement and floor coupling to get the desired results.

My experience is that the MarkAudio recommended breakin time might be needed for safe operation of the speakers, but they will continue to change for several hundred hours of play even after breakin.
 
After damaging both carpeted and hardwood floors with spikes, I avoid them, For hardwood / vinyl / tile floors, I quite like the cheapie little PSA felt gliders from Home Depot / Rona .

And yes, the extended break in is real, so if not already conditioned, be prepared to reassess levels of damping fibre fill after about 300hrs - which is 5 weeks at 8hrs a day.

I've been happy with single strand of CAT5 per pole for FR drivers like this, and as for terminals, quite like the cheapie small round input cups with 5way binding posts @ 3/4" spacing. A bit too tight for fat fingers, but as I use Pomona style dual bananas plugs rather and spades or bare wire connection that's not an issue.
 
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First listening impressions

Ok only 260 hours of break in but sounding great. I stuffed the boxes with fluffed poly fibre approx. 400g (?) from top to bottom...right down to the bottom...so you can see stuffing through the port.
My port is in the back.

I would say the bass is full but a bit muffled or wooly. I'm not displeased but perhaps there are some best ways to approach stuffing. (Given room differences etc.)

What are some guidelines for stuffing?
 
First listening impressions

Ok only 260 hours of break in but sounding great. I stuffed the boxes with fluffed poly fibre approx. 400g (?) from top to bottom...right down to the bottom...so you can see stuffing through the port.
My port is in the back.

I would say the bass is full but a bit muffled or wooly. I'm not displeased but perhaps there are some best ways to approach stuffing. (Given room differences etc.)

What are some guidelines for stuffing?
 
A10p pensils are sounding much better with half the amount if stuffing (teased poly fibre fill). They are now lightly stuffed from top to bottom: behind the driver down to rear faced port. The cabinets seem to breathe. The bass is plenty as they're corner loaded a foot from the back and side walls. With only 278 hours on them, there's a way to go. I may just install the spikes now so they're not a post 400hr variable.

Thanks to all who helped. This has only been my 3rd set of speakers.
For the record I will probably get the metal cones to compare.

I highly recommend these fullrangers.
 

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The beveled baffles are an equilateral truncated pyramid. I found an article showing wave launch of different geometries. The sphere is best followed by what I did. I have yet to compare these suprabaffles to others. Not unless I build other speakers with othvintages affles will I know for sanalytical ey work. I don't have measuring equipment right now but someday I'll post some sweeps.

300 hours on the drivers and the sound is opening up. Right now the lower mid-range is very forward. It think it is partly due to the EH6922 in my decware. Bass is plenty with these speakers. As Dave Dlugos pointed out, the highs out of the paper driver are "vintage". This means subdued; no analytical, shrill, surgical, metallic in-your-face qualities. I will pick up the metal cones for comparison. Jazz listeners like me may prefer a little more squeak, metal on cymbals and finger noise on strings.

Male and female voices, piano, acoustic guitar, sax all very satisfying.

Soundstage is stable but I am having to toe them in more than I thought. Because the drivers are very slightly horn mounted I am going to experiment with felt rings around the mounting routered edge up to the surround. Hopefully it will help focus the highs.