What chris said about the chamfer sounds like the easiest way to go.
I don,t do a lot of thin veneer with exposed edges any more but when i do a fined a file with teeth on the edge is useful for doing outer square edges, lay the box down with the over hanging veneer pointing up, push the file in a forward direction only, holding it at a low approx 5-10 degree angle off of level (working towards you). practice on a scrap glue up it wont take long to catch on. Very usful cheep tool. This will held avoid those long cracks that can split off when the knife cut wants to follow the grain.
AS far as a solid edge on the chamfer, probably the best idea but i prefer a sharp block plane for clean up before sandpaper.You don,t have to be a cabinet maker to appreciate the value of a sharp tuned block plane.
Hind sight is 20/20 and 30 years ago my very first tool list should of went somthing like this:
block plane
water stone
chisel
honing guide
bandsaw ya bandsaw you need a real toytool
I don,t do a lot of thin veneer with exposed edges any more but when i do a fined a file with teeth on the edge is useful for doing outer square edges, lay the box down with the over hanging veneer pointing up, push the file in a forward direction only, holding it at a low approx 5-10 degree angle off of level (working towards you). practice on a scrap glue up it wont take long to catch on. Very usful cheep tool. This will held avoid those long cracks that can split off when the knife cut wants to follow the grain.
AS far as a solid edge on the chamfer, probably the best idea but i prefer a sharp block plane for clean up before sandpaper.You don,t have to be a cabinet maker to appreciate the value of a sharp tuned block plane.
Hind sight is 20/20 and 30 years ago my very first tool list should of went somthing like this:
block plane
water stone
chisel
honing guide
bandsaw ya bandsaw you need a real toytool
True that about a nice Veritas or Lie Nielsen block plane, but the face veneers on much of current production plywoods are very thin, and often brittle, so one needs to be very careful to avoid tearout or scalping.
For trimming the overhanging veneer, I'll use a hard sanding block with 150G PSA paper to score through the long grain edges, and trim off with a Stanley 2" chisel. For cross grain veneer trimming, hold the back of the same chisel against the adjoining face, and make a series of slight downward arcing strokes with the upper tip of the blade. Then sand with cork or rubber backed block.
For trimming the overhanging veneer, I'll use a hard sanding block with 150G PSA paper to score through the long grain edges, and trim off with a Stanley 2" chisel. For cross grain veneer trimming, hold the back of the same chisel against the adjoining face, and make a series of slight downward arcing strokes with the upper tip of the blade. Then sand with cork or rubber backed block.
Thanks, this one is known as YJ 2.0, I've got the same. Looking forward to hear your impressions.
Btw, my dad lives in Houston and these Focals and tubes (Cary) I referred to were his, I brought this board when visited him on last Xmas and he was quite impressed (while I was assured) of what this tiny $15 board can do with decent speakers.
Btw, my dad lives in Houston and these Focals and tubes (Cary) I referred to were his, I brought this board when visited him on last Xmas and he was quite impressed (while I was assured) of what this tiny $15 board can do with decent speakers.
The barbells are for me to get my strength up.Really there for the spikes/stands. Not sure I'll use them. Well see after I router the edges.
I built the amp last year. I'm using MLTL's with BetsyK's, alignment by GM/MJK right now. I expect a big improvement in SQ with the 10P's.
I run source direct on the CDP. For my vinyl, I use a CNC phono stage that's battery powered. I haven't tried the system with my PC, Modi dac.
Mark
Here's the phono stage. Made to match amp.
Mark, nice project. How long with the phone stage run a charge?
Jesus R
I'm still on the first set of batts. I do have the SPS power supply board built for it. I had it in the same enclosure with the phono board and picked up hum. So I just changed to battery power. Works very well. Silent and cart loading adjustable.
Mark
Ya Chris one of those is on my wish list, but for about $40 you can get a low angle, stanley i had to spend a half hour tuning and flattening the bed but it works great. Set to about 1-3/1000 of a inch can get you pretty close,also making sure the blade is slightly skuad in the right direction, another great essential tool in the shop around veneers is a simple card scraper at about $3 bucks. I use both of these where solid and veneers meet.
I use to us a file to clean up the iron on edge tape years ago building kitchen cabinets, it worked good for that. But you probably do a lot more veneer work then i will ever do.
I ran the YJ 2.0 with my old FR's. I didn't really like the SQ. Well I hooked it up to the Pensil's and WOW one hell of a difference. Stage and image is wide. The speakers disappear, SQ is great. I also used a 19v/6.3a brick. I have the BL/BU board and I'm waiting on the tube preamp. I'll update when I get it together.
The 10p's/Pensil's and the TPA3116 class D is a very good combo.
Mark
Thanks Mark, was nice to hear that from tube guy. That exactly matches my impressions. Guess you'like ithem even more upon complete break-up. YJ 2.0 is very basic board though, they recently started $20 'blue' board which uses thru-hole higher quality parts, must be even better. I tried SMPS also at first, but now use linear regulated 12V 1A PSU and like the SQ even more. You could even try 12V SLA battery as this amp consumes very little power, you'll ike the results.
Good luck with finishing the pencils.
Good luck with finishing the pencils.
Your welcome. The 3116 is still no match for my tube amp. It is a great inexpensive amp that punches way above my expectations. I use it for everyday use.
I have about 50hrs. of burn in now on the 10P's. Their getting better everyday. This has to be one of my best audio buys. Wish I'd bought them sooner!
I'll be taking them apart soon for cab finishing. Pic's coming when done.
Mark
I have about 50hrs. of burn in now on the 10P's. Their getting better everyday. This has to be one of my best audio buys. Wish I'd bought them sooner!
I'll be taking them apart soon for cab finishing. Pic's coming when done.
Mark
Indeed these board with cheap SMD components powered by noisy laptop bricks can not directly compete with polished tube designs, but amazinly getting so close. I'm speaking of TPA3116 potential as a chip itself, properly made commercial amps are yet to come. There are some nice DIY projects already though, but very rarely they are directly compared to top tube amps so thanks again for your input.
Just finished my 10.3 pensils, break-in started. So far I like the sound very much, it's like 'more of 7.3' feeling. Nothing harsh or metallic. 10Ps are still waiting on the shelf, guess I'll make BR for them. One day that would be interesting direct comparison between MA top models in different dresses... but I'll like them all I guess )
Just finished my 10.3 pensils, break-in started. So far I like the sound very much, it's like 'more of 7.3' feeling. Nothing harsh or metallic. 10Ps are still waiting on the shelf, guess I'll make BR for them. One day that would be interesting direct comparison between MA top models in different dresses... but I'll like them all I guess )
And herein is the problem with cheap amps. You can get a TA2020 amp in a box for $20 and is sounds OK. I have a TA2022 amp that is MSLP of $400, street $200 and it sounds very good. The difference? Quality parts surrounding the chip. I will probably get a TPA3116 amp when I locate a decent one in the $200-300 range. I guarantee that it will knock the socks off of your $20 demo board.
Bob
Bob
Bob, with all respect, we are on the DIY forum, so probably one with proper knowledge could build it from scratch or just mod these boards and it will not cost him even $50. BTW their new $20 board is a 'copy' of a very good design by a Danzz member, fitted with quality components. In general, you are right, I just sharing my experience with the chip as a new reference class-D platfrom open for everyone.
Ok, I've been using the Pensils for about a week. I have a question about cables. I started out running the 10p's direct with some simple 18ga. speaker wire to amp. They were burning in the 10p's. SQ was very good. Then I installed binding posts on the cabs and used my larger 12ga. cables. SQ decreased. So today I tried my cat6 single DIY cables and the SQ is even better than before. For my question, what are most using for cables with the 10p's? Results?
I've also found the Pensils brought my phono stage to life. It's never sounded better. My cd source now sounds bad. Guess it's time for a new CDP.
Amazing drivers!
Mark
I've also found the Pensils brought my phono stage to life. It's never sounded better. My cd source now sounds bad. Guess it's time for a new CDP.
Amazing drivers!
Mark
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.