Peavey CS-800 Issues.

From the Peavey cross reference guide:
2N5400 and 2N5401 are subs for each other. (They are just different voltages of the same part, both more than enough)

SPS690 is a house number for 2N4249 or 2N5086. (2N5086 is common)

Q4 is a 953 on my schematic, a house number for 2N3391A, MPSA18, 2N6539, also MPS8097, all in the cross reference. Most in stock at Mouser.

I mentioned the MPSU10, MPSU60 in post 39, ask Peavey what they are using now.

40102 diodes are zeners on the schematic, note that each one has 15v on its non-grounded end. They are common 15v zener diodes. From the Peravey cross reference, they are just 1N4744 15v zener diodes.
 
Here is an updated list with links to the replacement parts I will order.
Heres what we got so far on the list of my next Mouser order.

A 4580 to replace the 4558 RC4580IP Texas Instruments | Mouser

A 5534 OP Amp SA5534AP Texas Instruments | Mouser

1N4007 diodes (already have them, so no need to order them)

MPS6534 (replaces MPS6533) (replaces transistor Q8) MPS6534_D75Z Fairchild Semiconductor | Mouser

MPS6531 (replaces MPS6530) (replaces transistor Q7) MPS6531_D75Z Fairchild Semiconductor | Mouser

2N5461 (Q1) 2N5461 Fairchild Semiconductor | Mouser

2N5401 (Replaces 2N5400) (replaces transistor Q2)

2N5086 (Replaces SPS690) (replaces transistor Q3) 2N5086 Central Semiconductor | Mouser

MPSA18 (Replaces TI923) (replaces transistor Q4) MPSA18RLRMG ON Semiconductor | Mouser

Q6 (Peavey: 7204) (MPSU10) Can't find it on Mouser. What can substitute it?
Q5 (Peavey: 7205) (MPSU60) Can't find it on Mouser. What can substitute it?

MJE340 (Q9) MJE340G ON Semiconductor | Mouser

MJE350 (Q10) MJE350G ON Semiconductor | Mouser

1N4744 (Replaces 1N40102 diodes) (replaces diodes CR6 and CR10) 1N4744A_T50R Fairchild Semiconductor | Mouser

No, not all of these components are bad, but I want to order them and add them to my shop so when they do fail or are needed I have them. The transistors (TO-92) are in touch shape. Some have badly corroded leads, others aren't even on the board. :(
 
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As for Q5 and Q6, I will email Peavey and ask what they use to replace them with. One thing that has be stumped is the schematic says Q9 and Q10 (on driver card) are the driver transistors. I thought Q1 and Q2 on the power board are the driver transistors. They are the MJ13330. Mouser doesn't carry those... neither does DigiKey. What would replace them if they are bad?

I'm going to start checking the outputs and drivers tomorrow for shorts to make sure they are all good.
 
As for Q5 and Q6, I will email Peavey and ask what they use to replace them with. One thing that has be stumped is the schematic says Q9 and Q10 (on driver card) are the driver transistors. I thought Q1 and Q2 on the power board are the driver transistors. They are the MJ13330. Mouser doesn't carry those... neither does DigiKey. What would replace them if they are bad? I'm going to start checking the outputs and drivers tomorrow for shorts to make sure they are all good.

Oh, and does anyone have a wiring diagram for the terminals? Like I said in the op, these amps were caked in nicotine dust. So ALL wires were removes cleaned, and the chassis was cleaned. I have it all wired and working, but the fan is goofed. The switch either turns the fan off or to full speed. Strangely enough on the DBT when the fan is set to "off" the bulb glows a tab brighter. The bulb is still dim, so its not a short, but for the fan to not be moving, and the bulb to be slightly brighter makes me think something is goofed.
 
If Q5 and Q6 are TO-220, the state of the art these days is MJE15032 (NPN) and MJE15033 (PNP). Much lower thermal resistance junction to case than was available in 1976.
These were cheaper at Mouser than Newark for some reason, the opposite is usually true of On Semi parts.
If these are so old they are TO5, I've had to replace TO5 drivers with TO220 in my dynaco amp, because TO5 is not available anymore except from surplus (high markup) houses. You have to twist the leads around TO5 to TO220 and buy a different heatsink.
Peavey CS amps have a predriver (TO220 Q5, Q6) and a driver (TO3, Q1-Q2) which gives plenty of gain and heat sink.
 
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one thing i will caution you on when working on a Peavey CS-800 amp is the wiring harness under the PCB. i've seen quite a few Peavey amps (not just the CS-800, but any in this series) get a pinched wire under the PCB, and the wiring harness goes up in smoke as a result, so pay close attention to making that wire bundle fit without getting pinched anywhere. if it pushes up on the board when you screw the board down, it needs to be spread out and flatter.
 
I've never seen this style of transistors, but these crappy pictures with arrows hopefully show you Q5 and Q6
 

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Yeah, TO 126 or 202 package is a dodo bird. Peavey might sell them to you but I would use TO220 (MJ15032-3) and twist the legs around. That is what I did on PC15 of my Dynakit ST120. Depends on the headroom how much heatsink you can get on them. I put nice 1/2"x1/2" heatsinks on my ST120. Enzo likes buying from Peavey but it seems you have to use the phone to order stuff from them. If you need the double heat sink sense diode, also, they are the best source.
I take it back, Avnetexpress.com has some TO-126. KSA1220 has enough Vceo (-120) but is light on the current capability, 1.2 A.
 
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Yes, that should be fairly bulletproof. Especially if you can put a little heat sink on them. Don't forget to twist the base to put it in the middle PCB hole, if your meter confirms that is what you have got. Bending the one in the middle back a little and the end one forward makes a little room.
 
It is your $2 (each) for Q5 & Q6. My PV1.3k which has similar output topology has a little heatsink on the predrivers. Just a lot of people with Harmon Kardens and similar consumer **** on here have TO126 or TO220 drivers blow up in their 5th to 10th year when the dust gets to them. And that is only driving 2 or 3 output transistors.
 
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The two transistors are that funny little tab package Motorola made, the MPSU10 and MPSU60. "Case 152." The pinout is EBC. Yes you can put a TO220 in its place, but TO220 is BCE, so you need to be careful to mount the part turned to the side so you can bend the legs to fit the proper holes for their function.

They are drivers on the little board, which could be used for other models than just the CS800. In the CS800, yes, they are not the drivers, they are the pre-drivers. DOn;t worry about the distinction. In some other amp they migth drive whatever is connected to them via that row of pins. Note that the schematic says "driver" not "THE driver." They drive the next stage, whether it be yet another driver or the outputs themselves.

As to the MJ13330, I would be happy with an MJ15020. Or even another MJ15024. These are remarkably flexilble amps. Or just order them from Peavey. Whatever they are using for them these days will have the same part number: 70481180.

Peavey is a very customer friendly company, and if you ask the parts people or service people what they curently use for obsolete parts, they'll tell you. You can also contact their inside technical support guy, Gene Ford. gene.ford@peavey.com
 
When Enzo makes a statement, believe it. He's done this for years.
I'm using the survivor (of 10) MJ15024 output transistors for the driver MJ15020 on my similar PV1.3k (but 5 O.T. pairs instead of 4). So far so good. I think the MJ15020-21 might have been a cost savings design feature instead of some unique requirement.
My the output transistors are new, MJ21195-96 which are $1 cheaper. I wonder if Enzo prefers the MJ15024-25 because the dies are bigger on the older product.
 
I prefer the MJ15024 because it is the drop in replacment for the PV part numbers.

I have absolutely nothing against the newer MJ211xx parts except they are not the same process manufacture. Both parts have the same basic specs, but they are not the same. SO I don't want to mix them with the 15024s, because it is VERY important that the whole row of outputs track thermally and share current equally. If I am replacing the whole row, then fine, use either one, but if I have only a couple bad parts, then I either stick to the MJ15024 or replace the whole row with the 211xx. And then the question becomes which is cheaper, two 15024s or six 211xx?