Top. Waynes board need that GND connection. The GND connection is made where the grey lead comes out. It probably wont help your short, but the circuit wont say a thing without it.
Your next step should be to take a magnifieing lens and inspect the board carefully and slowly.
Steen.
Your next step should be to take a magnifieing lens and inspect the board carefully and slowly.
Steen.
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Hi!
Thanks for your replies!
Zetex are correctly orientated!
I'm going to have a more closer look (if that's possible to look even closer than I did already) in the weekend. Sorry no camera, so no real pics!
Let's see! Cheers, Hannes
PS: I already checked the 2nd board (not populated at all at the moment) and there's no short (yet
).
Thanks for your replies!
Zetex are correctly orientated!
I'm going to have a more closer look (if that's possible to look even closer than I did already) in the weekend. Sorry no camera, so no real pics!
Let's see! Cheers, Hannes
PS: I already checked the 2nd board (not populated at all at the moment) and there's no short (yet
).
I found the problem: the pc board had the short!
steenoe you're a bold guy that you solder the snap-ins in such a way - originally I did the same, however desoldering them is then a triple pain.
And exactly a pin of the snap-ins had the short - without a magnifying lens I wouldn't have found it - Thanks a lot for the tip steenoe!!
Fixed, pluged in - regulator fine (removed R8 to protect actual circuit).
Soldered R8 in, pluged in - and another short.
Circuit draws way too much current, about 0.5 A instead of 0.05A...
Seems there's another short around Q3.
This channel really wants attention.
Cheers, Hannes
steenoe you're a bold guy that you solder the snap-ins in such a way - originally I did the same, however desoldering them is then a triple pain.
And exactly a pin of the snap-ins had the short - without a magnifying lens I wouldn't have found it - Thanks a lot for the tip steenoe!!
Fixed, pluged in - regulator fine (removed R8 to protect actual circuit).
Soldered R8 in, pluged in - and another short.
Circuit draws way too much current, about 0.5 A instead of 0.05A...
Seems there's another short around Q3.
This channel really wants attention.
Cheers, Hannes
Hi Marc!
If you look at the bottom of the pcb
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1222892&stamp=1180625411
then you'll see that the hole of the snap-in elco is fully filled with solder. If you don't have to desolder that beast, it's perfectly fine to do so, I'd say.
If you need to desolder it, you'll invent new curses. So I stopped doing that and I only solder now the side where the snap-in pin has contact to the plated hole.
How's it going with your XOno?
Cheers, Hannes
PS: I can't wait to get my hands on the nifty parts you organised! Thanks a lot!!
If you look at the bottom of the pcb
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/attachment.php?s=&postid=1222892&stamp=1180625411
then you'll see that the hole of the snap-in elco is fully filled with solder. If you don't have to desolder that beast, it's perfectly fine to do so, I'd say.
If you need to desolder it, you'll invent new curses. So I stopped doing that and I only solder now the side where the snap-in pin has contact to the plated hole.
How's it going with your XOno?
Cheers, Hannes
PS: I can't wait to get my hands on the nifty parts you organised! Thanks a lot!!
heh, that's what I was worried you'd say. I always wondered why they called them "snap-in" capacitors, but I figured I'd just solder the heck out of them as well... it was fun filling those large holes with so much solder! Hopefully I won't need to reclaim that $100 worth of 10,000uF/63V capacitors any time soon!
My Xono is going fine. I posted a few days back on another thread for some help, but I think I figured it out. I had chosen the wrong type of LED and was getting too much current through the current source. I have socketed this position, which has really helped in fine tuning the circuit. Man I felt like a electronics geek (not that there's anything wrong with that) when I just bought 30 red LEDs with a V_f of around 1.5-1.8 V (yes, it took a lot of searching to find anything with a typical V_f below 1.7v) .. I even bought a few in the 1.4-1.5 v range, which incidentally were infrared LEDs. Matching LEDs? That's a new one for me... seems kinda crazy to me
Maybe not even necessary, who knows... I'm guessing (hoping really) that this will solve my other problem of not having 0v near Q10 and the 2sk389gr... Hopefully this will get the DC parameters all set, now I need to just get the thing cased and more thermally stable so I can finish tweaking the operating points and then move on to testing with a signal generator (that still needs to be built) and my handy new inverse RIAA filter from Hagtech 
So, yeah, getting close!
I hope your package arrives in the next few days.. it should keep you busy for a while!
My Xono is going fine. I posted a few days back on another thread for some help, but I think I figured it out. I had chosen the wrong type of LED and was getting too much current through the current source. I have socketed this position, which has really helped in fine tuning the circuit. Man I felt like a electronics geek (not that there's anything wrong with that) when I just bought 30 red LEDs with a V_f of around 1.5-1.8 V (yes, it took a lot of searching to find anything with a typical V_f below 1.7v) .. I even bought a few in the 1.4-1.5 v range, which incidentally were infrared LEDs. Matching LEDs? That's a new one for me... seems kinda crazy to me
Maybe not even necessary, who knows... I'm guessing (hoping really) that this will solve my other problem of not having 0v near Q10 and the 2sk389gr... Hopefully this will get the DC parameters all set, now I need to just get the thing cased and more thermally stable so I can finish tweaking the operating points and then move on to testing with a signal generator (that still needs to be built) and my handy new inverse RIAA filter from Hagtech So, yeah, getting close!
I hope your package arrives in the next few days.. it should keep you busy for a while!
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