Thanks. I guess it's down to understanding the issues (as you clearly do) and taking sufficient care with the joints. Interesting stuff.
I use double-sided PCBs all the time. I oversize the pads and traces to prevent lifting. My boards survive multiple rework operations without peeled traces. The through plating also helps against trace lifting.
A PCB beats point-to-point wiring in repeatability hands down. And a properly laid out board will perform as good or better than point-to-point wiring simply because the board can easier be optimized with respect to signal integrity.
For prototypes I make double-sided (not through-plated) boards using toner transfer. With those I do sometimes run into trouble with lifted pads or traces resulting from repeated rework. But most of the time the issues are caused by a slight slip between the top and bottom layer artwork throwing the registration off by maybe 0.25 or 0.5 mm. It's good enough for prototypes and one-off kinds of jobs, but for anything else, I'd go with a professionally fabricated board.
~Tom
A PCB beats point-to-point wiring in repeatability hands down. And a properly laid out board will perform as good or better than point-to-point wiring simply because the board can easier be optimized with respect to signal integrity.
For prototypes I make double-sided (not through-plated) boards using toner transfer. With those I do sometimes run into trouble with lifted pads or traces resulting from repeated rework. But most of the time the issues are caused by a slight slip between the top and bottom layer artwork throwing the registration off by maybe 0.25 or 0.5 mm. It's good enough for prototypes and one-off kinds of jobs, but for anything else, I'd go with a professionally fabricated board.
~Tom
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