great thread,
just finoshed reading all the 31 pages.
I've purchased a second hand XR57 for 140€ and am very happy with it.
My mod will first be binding posts as they suc*k hard !
Currently listening to radioparadise in 128K AAC+ with my 901 XP eeePC, foobar2k, maya 7.1USB soundcard + toslink cable to the 57.
I am no HT boy at all, so triamping my 3 way Triangle TZX Antal and bi-wiring them is my playground for now.
just finoshed reading all the 31 pages.
I've purchased a second hand XR57 for 140€ and am very happy with it.
My mod will first be binding posts as they suc*k hard !
Currently listening to radioparadise in 128K AAC+ with my 901 XP eeePC, foobar2k, maya 7.1USB soundcard + toslink cable to the 57.
I am no HT boy at all, so triamping my 3 way Triangle TZX Antal and bi-wiring them is my playground for now.
I got an XR55 and want to do some modifications on it, I have read through the entire thread. Now I would like to do some modifications on my receiver. I will go about these one at a time. I would love to see some pictures of what other people have done. Looks like there used to be more pictures but they are no longer up.
1. Wire directly to the binding posts( maybe upgrading binding posts ) and bypass the speaker board. This still allows me to keep bi-amp and dual amp? Then take this new wire from the binding posts to where it would normally go on the power or main board? Also upgrading the wiring between main and power board?
2. Better PS cap, What cap for best price/performance?
3. Upgrading powercable
it's been a long time since I did anything like this so trying to get as much help as I can. I am sure some of what I am thinking is incorrect, so any help would be great. This is also why I would love to see some pictures of what people have done.
1. Wire directly to the binding posts( maybe upgrading binding posts ) and bypass the speaker board. This still allows me to keep bi-amp and dual amp? Then take this new wire from the binding posts to where it would normally go on the power or main board? Also upgrading the wiring between main and power board?
2. Better PS cap, What cap for best price/performance?
3. Upgrading powercable
it's been a long time since I did anything like this so trying to get as much help as I can. I am sure some of what I am thinking is incorrect, so any help would be great. This is also why I would love to see some pictures of what people have done.
Ok so I looked some more at what is done and how this works. I have been looking at the service manual some and looking at where the output from the main board to the power board then to the speaker board goes. This is what it is looking like now I am not good at this stuff at all so I could be way off base.
It seems that some of the stuff is labeled badly/incorrectly. on the main board there are FL, FR, C, C, SB, SL, SR. one of the C's goes to the speaker board the other goes to the power board. Seems like it should have read FL, FR, C, SL, SR, SBL, SBR. This is what is used in the 57 and on the speaker board of the 55 with exception of adding a and b for fronts.
Now looking some more it seems they use SB, and C for the SL and SR speakers or FBL and FBR if bi-amp. Where the SL and SR from the main board are used for dual amp and SBL, and SBL speakers.
Does this mean that if I wan't to wire directly from the main board to the surrounds I should go from the SB and C to the SL and SR binding posts?
It seems that some of the stuff is labeled badly/incorrectly. on the main board there are FL, FR, C, C, SB, SL, SR. one of the C's goes to the speaker board the other goes to the power board. Seems like it should have read FL, FR, C, SL, SR, SBL, SBR. This is what is used in the 57 and on the speaker board of the 55 with exception of adding a and b for fronts.
Now looking some more it seems they use SB, and C for the SL and SR speakers or FBL and FBR if bi-amp. Where the SL and SR from the main board are used for dual amp and SBL, and SBL speakers.
Does this mean that if I wan't to wire directly from the main board to the surrounds I should go from the SB and C to the SL and SR binding posts?
Ok,
Now I have one clock (burson), connected to external very low impedance SLA AGM battery, running both the AKM Digital audio input interface chip at 24.576 mhz and tied the 1/2 output of this clock to where 12.288 is being generated (removed the 33ohm resistor at the output of IC1006) to feed this to the yamaha DSP chip. Great improvement. Next up is to run seperate clocks, one for AKM chip and one for yamaha chip, and put each clock on very low impedance battery power supply. I own 5 XR-55's now so I have plenty of backups. lol
Now I have one clock (burson), connected to external very low impedance SLA AGM battery, running both the AKM Digital audio input interface chip at 24.576 mhz and tied the 1/2 output of this clock to where 12.288 is being generated (removed the 33ohm resistor at the output of IC1006) to feed this to the yamaha DSP chip. Great improvement. Next up is to run seperate clocks, one for AKM chip and one for yamaha chip, and put each clock on very low impedance battery power supply. I own 5 XR-55's now so I have plenty of backups. lol
Ok, Couldnt leave well enough alone....
Added in 12.288mhz Dexa D-Clock for DSP processor, and have Burson Clock running AKM audio input interface (24.576mhz).
Both clocks are powered from outboard Optima Yellow Top battery now.
Stunning improvement! More of a revelation!
The sound is so much detached from the speakers more than ever that the whole entire presentation has completely changed. I am now hearing music completely different than ever before. It is scary and makes you get lost in a sea of music pretruding out from the speakers back about 30ft that blows you away now with all the micro-detail that never was heard before.
Next mod is to put 3.3vdc Burson Discrete regulator in charge of all 3.3vdc circuits feeding processors. Directly powered by the outboard battery. May add a 6v battery just for the 3.3vdc to keep the voltage differential smaller for better sound and complete voltage/noise isolation from other circuits.
Can anyone walk me through how to rewire the outputs of the SA-XR55 so I can bypass the relays and wiring and wire direct from amp board to binding posts? I use the unit as a dual amp/bi-amp configuration.
Added in 12.288mhz Dexa D-Clock for DSP processor, and have Burson Clock running AKM audio input interface (24.576mhz).
Both clocks are powered from outboard Optima Yellow Top battery now.
Stunning improvement! More of a revelation!
The sound is so much detached from the speakers more than ever that the whole entire presentation has completely changed. I am now hearing music completely different than ever before. It is scary and makes you get lost in a sea of music pretruding out from the speakers back about 30ft that blows you away now with all the micro-detail that never was heard before.
Next mod is to put 3.3vdc Burson Discrete regulator in charge of all 3.3vdc circuits feeding processors. Directly powered by the outboard battery. May add a 6v battery just for the 3.3vdc to keep the voltage differential smaller for better sound and complete voltage/noise isolation from other circuits.
Can anyone walk me through how to rewire the outputs of the SA-XR55 so I can bypass the relays and wiring and wire direct from amp board to binding posts? I use the unit as a dual amp/bi-amp configuration.
Just put IC6275 (3.3v regulator) which feed ALL critical digital chips (audio interface input, DSP chip, 6ch pwm chips, microprocessor, logic gates, input inverter, etc, etc) on a 6v 9ah battery. I have the burson discrete voltage regulator coming next week. Just putting the stock regulator on battery power is so much better. transparency, dynamics and clarity have jumped up a couple notches. Its like these circuits are working better because the input power is so much cleaner. I use ZA capacitors everywhere I can.
So far the mods I have:
~Input RCA changed to WBT Nextgen AG silver
~Digital coupling caps changed to 0.1/50v BG NX
~Output of inverter through NX coupling cap directly silver wired point to point to input 47ohm resistor into AKM interface (RX0). Not using the ribbon cable, except for 3.3v to feed inverter.
~Dexa D-clock 12.288mhz running DSP chip (clock is battery powered)
~Burson 24.576mhz clock running AKM digital interface chip (battery powered)
~All capacitors changed to ZA or FM around all digital input circuits.
~3.3v rail powered by 6v 9ah battery, this feeds over 20 parts!!!!!
~Both clocks and modified source (wadia 170i) powered by optima yellow top 48ah D75/25 battery
Next mods:
~Burson Discrete voltage regulator to bypass stock 3.3v regulator, powered by 6v 9ah battery (this should be interesting...)
~Full Power supply mods (wanted to do those last)
~Speaker cabling output upgrade (need help with this if anyone can help me)
~Replace burson clock with Dexa D-clock for 24.576mhz input
Check back for more interesting improvements....
So far the mods I have:
~Input RCA changed to WBT Nextgen AG silver
~Digital coupling caps changed to 0.1/50v BG NX
~Output of inverter through NX coupling cap directly silver wired point to point to input 47ohm resistor into AKM interface (RX0). Not using the ribbon cable, except for 3.3v to feed inverter.
~Dexa D-clock 12.288mhz running DSP chip (clock is battery powered)
~Burson 24.576mhz clock running AKM digital interface chip (battery powered)
~All capacitors changed to ZA or FM around all digital input circuits.
~3.3v rail powered by 6v 9ah battery, this feeds over 20 parts!!!!!
~Both clocks and modified source (wadia 170i) powered by optima yellow top 48ah D75/25 battery
Next mods:
~Burson Discrete voltage regulator to bypass stock 3.3v regulator, powered by 6v 9ah battery (this should be interesting...)
~Full Power supply mods (wanted to do those last)
~Speaker cabling output upgrade (need help with this if anyone can help me)
~Replace burson clock with Dexa D-clock for 24.576mhz input
Check back for more interesting improvements....
Hey Crazy_D,
I see your back in action again - well done for being tenacious!
I never did get to fix the power supply board of the XR-57 & I couldn't find a source for a replacement board at a reasonable price.
I remember trying a Tent clock somewhere on the board in the past (before I broke the PS board) & didn't hear any real improvement but I can't remember the details of where I applied it now.
BTW, if you are getting great improvements from the 3.3V regulators can I suggest some LiFePO4 batteries that I use - these have been tested & evaluated as easily better than well regarded commercially available regulators. Email me if you more info.
I see your back in action again - well done for being tenacious!
I never did get to fix the power supply board of the XR-57 & I couldn't find a source for a replacement board at a reasonable price.
I remember trying a Tent clock somewhere on the board in the past (before I broke the PS board) & didn't hear any real improvement but I can't remember the details of where I applied it now.
BTW, if you are getting great improvements from the 3.3V regulators can I suggest some LiFePO4 batteries that I use - these have been tested & evaluated as easily better than well regarded commercially available regulators. Email me if you more info.
back to one of the original questions posed in this thread...
this week i had an LG home theater system come in for repair with the complaint of "very little audio from the speakers"... sure enough it was only putting out a couple of watts to the speakers at full volume, but it was not distorted. what i found when i opened it up was interesting, the 32V rail to the power amp was reading less than 5V. the amp was otherwise working normally. after replacing the power supply board, the unit was back to 50W/ch output. so, by using a controllable 0-32V supply for the amp, you can use the power supply as a volume control on LG class D amps.
this week i had an LG home theater system come in for repair with the complaint of "very little audio from the speakers"... sure enough it was only putting out a couple of watts to the speakers at full volume, but it was not distorted. what i found when i opened it up was interesting, the 32V rail to the power amp was reading less than 5V. the amp was otherwise working normally. after replacing the power supply board, the unit was back to 50W/ch output. so, by using a controllable 0-32V supply for the amp, you can use the power supply as a volume control on LG class D amps.
This is the way the volume is controlled on the Panny amps using a combination of adjustable voltage to the output stage & digital attenuation. This is what makes the power supply board expensive & difficult to troubleshoot & repair.
Do you know anything about this PS board in the Panny XR-57?
Thanks unclejed,
I think there is an official online shop for Panasonic parts, there the PS board is something like $200 AFAIR not counting posting (I'm in Ireland & they probably don't even post to here).
So if you have a cheaper source or know of second hand working PS boards, I would be interested, thanks.
I think there is an official online shop for Panasonic parts, there the PS board is something like $200 AFAIR not counting posting (I'm in Ireland & they probably don't even post to here).
So if you have a cheaper source or know of second hand working PS boards, I would be interested, thanks.
It has been a long while, but I thought I would update two more things I have done to the SAXR-55.
1) Replaced all the stock RCA 5.1 channel in's and the subwoofer out with Vampire CM2FCB. Very positive results when fed with a good blue ray. Better than optical and coaxial connections. Remember to hold the DVD button down for several seconds on the remote to switch from direct 6CH and 2CH.
2) Replaced the stock oscillators with TXC 10ppm oscillators from Digikey. I had to run new leads to the capacitors.
Still enjoying the Panny, especially having the modded Behringer EP2500 holding the low end with two Bipolar Eclipse SW8200 subs.
Working on plans for a new 7.1 400UcD Hypex amp, looking forward to running my mains as large.
Here are the new pics:
1) Replaced all the stock RCA 5.1 channel in's and the subwoofer out with Vampire CM2FCB. Very positive results when fed with a good blue ray. Better than optical and coaxial connections. Remember to hold the DVD button down for several seconds on the remote to switch from direct 6CH and 2CH.
2) Replaced the stock oscillators with TXC 10ppm oscillators from Digikey. I had to run new leads to the capacitors.
Still enjoying the Panny, especially having the modded Behringer EP2500 holding the low end with two Bipolar Eclipse SW8200 subs.
Working on plans for a new 7.1 400UcD Hypex amp, looking forward to running my mains as large.
Here are the new pics:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
i2s to SA-XR59
Hi there,
I know this thread is rather old, but I'm wondering if someone did a working input-connection of i2s to the panasonic sa-xr59 (or 57/58)?
There is a thread by pawelp where he managed to connect i2s to sa-xr55s. He just was feeding the i2s lines to the PWM-processor. By this, your are loosing nearly every feature like volume control, which I want to preceive.
Thanks!
Hi there,
I know this thread is rather old, but I'm wondering if someone did a working input-connection of i2s to the panasonic sa-xr59 (or 57/58)?
There is a thread by pawelp where he managed to connect i2s to sa-xr55s. He just was feeding the i2s lines to the PWM-processor. By this, your are loosing nearly every feature like volume control, which I want to preceive.
Thanks!
Hey all, Been a while - I have an XR25 and an XR45. The 25 has nasty static or no sound on all but Digital in...weird. The 45 has static popping also on all inputs.
I believe both have issues wit the power supply - the 45 has some deep discoloration due to heat at the SMPS IC - IC701, and the Zeners D734/D733, while the 25 has minimal heat discoloration.
Anyway, anyone know the voltage out at the CP606 on 25 and 45? These seem to be the main power out to amp board - I get GRND (Brown), 10.3v (Grey), 10.3V (Blue) and yes, all positive...
I believe both have issues wit the power supply - the 45 has some deep discoloration due to heat at the SMPS IC - IC701, and the Zeners D734/D733, while the 25 has minimal heat discoloration.
Anyway, anyone know the voltage out at the CP606 on 25 and 45? These seem to be the main power out to amp board - I get GRND (Brown), 10.3v (Grey), 10.3V (Blue) and yes, all positive...
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.