MagGuide
Hi Doug,
I did some fooling around with a couple of leftover Schroeder magnets and a piece of steel rod just to observe what if anything could be seen while the arm was playing a record. Answer to that, "not much". A few questions did surface. Did you find it necessary to position the magnets and rod so that the upward pull on the carriage occurs directly over the longitudinal plane of the bearings so that the magnetic pull doesn't change the VTA. I found it easy to have the magnet pull increase or decrease the VTF (pivot the arm wand down or up without really changing the effective weight of the carriage. I'm thinking about a U clip going over the bearing and attached to the bearing support rods. The magnet would be mounted to the flat top. This would apply upward force uniformly to both sides of the bearing.
Also, how much pull did the magnets exert on the carriage (strong-weak-mid) I know numbers can't be easily determined? It is easy to get the rod too close to the magnets and have them glom onto the rod. I assume from your setup description you set the CW at some arbitrary distance (all the way back) and then applied magnetic force to counter the CW. Seems to me that it could be nigh impossible to set the desired upward force that way. Using a clip over the bearing cage and pulling straight up you could set this pretty accurately to just un-weight the bearings a smidge.
About condition of the bearing cage outer corners, this is something I've mentioned several times in earlier replies and is something I consider essential to satisfactory operation. IMHO those corners must be very smooth and have a small radius. polished if possible. The radiused corner will give a point contact on the flat glass. Visual examination and a fingernail test should be adequate. I think the V-track will position the carriage/bearings so there should be no need for the magnets to be doing any guiding, just loading or un-loading of the bearings.
Rgds,
BillG
Hi Doug,
I did some fooling around with a couple of leftover Schroeder magnets and a piece of steel rod just to observe what if anything could be seen while the arm was playing a record. Answer to that, "not much". A few questions did surface. Did you find it necessary to position the magnets and rod so that the upward pull on the carriage occurs directly over the longitudinal plane of the bearings so that the magnetic pull doesn't change the VTA. I found it easy to have the magnet pull increase or decrease the VTF (pivot the arm wand down or up without really changing the effective weight of the carriage. I'm thinking about a U clip going over the bearing and attached to the bearing support rods. The magnet would be mounted to the flat top. This would apply upward force uniformly to both sides of the bearing.
Also, how much pull did the magnets exert on the carriage (strong-weak-mid) I know numbers can't be easily determined? It is easy to get the rod too close to the magnets and have them glom onto the rod. I assume from your setup description you set the CW at some arbitrary distance (all the way back) and then applied magnetic force to counter the CW. Seems to me that it could be nigh impossible to set the desired upward force that way. Using a clip over the bearing cage and pulling straight up you could set this pretty accurately to just un-weight the bearings a smidge.
About condition of the bearing cage outer corners, this is something I've mentioned several times in earlier replies and is something I consider essential to satisfactory operation. IMHO those corners must be very smooth and have a small radius. polished if possible. The radiused corner will give a point contact on the flat glass. Visual examination and a fingernail test should be adequate. I think the V-track will position the carriage/bearings so there should be no need for the magnets to be doing any guiding, just loading or un-loading of the bearings.
Rgds,
BillG
BillG,
I just tried and experiment prompted by your questions. I put the entire arm/carriage including CW, cart and stylus on a digital scale. it weighs 60.3 gr. I put the bar directly over the magnets but high enough not to have any effect until I slowly lowered it. The measured weight decreased to about 45 gr before the magnets grabbed the bar. Then I placed the bar over the rear half of the magnets, which is the working arrangement for playing records. Again, the measured weight fell to 45 gr. For the complete assembly, I adjust the bar height to a point slightly above where it pulls the bearings up to the inner surface of the tube, so the bearings are unloaded by approximately 15 gr.
When I was first putting this idea together, I tried putting the bar directly over the magnets, which are directly over the bearings, and over the front and rear halves. Directly over resulted in carriage chatter at the point where rolling friction decreased. The control I'd hoped for from the magnetic field just didn't happen, which was disappointing. Putting the bar over either the front or rear half stopped the chatter and lowered rolling resistance, but over the front half made VTF adjustment a serious problem, which would require a large CW to overcome. With the bar over the rear half, VTA and VTF adjustments were pretty straight forward. The CW started at the rear of the stub because I'd made it as light as possible for this arm.
A lot of the good things that happened were serendipitous, just positive accidental consequences of arbitrary decisions. For instance, when the arm pretty much zeroed itself as I adjusted the bar down, despite the bar being to the rear of the bearings, it was a complete surprise and it took a moment for me to realize what an advantage it was.
And all of this is quite likely specific to this arm. My guess is that better bearing/horizontal surface combinations, like your glass trough or a better tube, would offer inherently better control, which means the mag guide would mostly becomes mag weight relief, set up adjusting, and damping. And I think that's a good thing.
If I understand the U clip idea right, I think it would work. I used used full width shelf because I didn't know where the magnets would be most effective.
I did the bearing corner check you suggest and they're OK. I think the bearings are just sketchy, especially under a load.
At this point, we're sort of converging. I got the glass yesterday to try a version of your design.
I just tried and experiment prompted by your questions. I put the entire arm/carriage including CW, cart and stylus on a digital scale. it weighs 60.3 gr. I put the bar directly over the magnets but high enough not to have any effect until I slowly lowered it. The measured weight decreased to about 45 gr before the magnets grabbed the bar. Then I placed the bar over the rear half of the magnets, which is the working arrangement for playing records. Again, the measured weight fell to 45 gr. For the complete assembly, I adjust the bar height to a point slightly above where it pulls the bearings up to the inner surface of the tube, so the bearings are unloaded by approximately 15 gr.
When I was first putting this idea together, I tried putting the bar directly over the magnets, which are directly over the bearings, and over the front and rear halves. Directly over resulted in carriage chatter at the point where rolling friction decreased. The control I'd hoped for from the magnetic field just didn't happen, which was disappointing. Putting the bar over either the front or rear half stopped the chatter and lowered rolling resistance, but over the front half made VTF adjustment a serious problem, which would require a large CW to overcome. With the bar over the rear half, VTA and VTF adjustments were pretty straight forward. The CW started at the rear of the stub because I'd made it as light as possible for this arm.
A lot of the good things that happened were serendipitous, just positive accidental consequences of arbitrary decisions. For instance, when the arm pretty much zeroed itself as I adjusted the bar down, despite the bar being to the rear of the bearings, it was a complete surprise and it took a moment for me to realize what an advantage it was.
And all of this is quite likely specific to this arm. My guess is that better bearing/horizontal surface combinations, like your glass trough or a better tube, would offer inherently better control, which means the mag guide would mostly becomes mag weight relief, set up adjusting, and damping. And I think that's a good thing.
If I understand the U clip idea right, I think it would work. I used used full width shelf because I didn't know where the magnets would be most effective.
I did the bearing corner check you suggest and they're OK. I think the bearings are just sketchy, especially under a load.
At this point, we're sort of converging. I got the glass yesterday to try a version of your design.
MagGuide
HI Doug,
Thanks for the fast reply and the experimental data. An old postal scale puts the weight of my assembly at 59-61 grams. Can't read it any closer than that.
I have a suggestion for your first glass track experiments. To avoid problems with the magnets lifting the carriage out of the track and grabbing them. If your glass is small enough fit the entire V into one of your slotted tubes. The tube won't do anything but capture the carriage if you get the rod too close to the magnets. If not, try to fit some kind of barrier to limit the upward travel. My first experiments didn't have anything like that so the rod grabbed the magnets quite a few times.
As to having the bar/rod over the front or rear half of the magnets, that sounds like a change in VTF issue which may clear up with the U clip setup. Next week I'll try to explore that. I wonder if the magnetic force vector being other than straight up is unloading the bearings more on one corner than the other, perhaps even to the point of making the bearing a rolling knife edge design. hmmmmm???
Too bad we can't achieve magnetic levitation with a few simple neodymium magnets.
If it turns out that simple reduction of carriage weight is the over riding benefit, I know I can shave some off my assembly, and from what I read, the full ceramic bearings should respond better than full steel ones.
I rather suspect that Bo explored these question early on before settling on his final design.
Fascinating stuff!
BillG
HI Doug,
Thanks for the fast reply and the experimental data. An old postal scale puts the weight of my assembly at 59-61 grams. Can't read it any closer than that.
I have a suggestion for your first glass track experiments. To avoid problems with the magnets lifting the carriage out of the track and grabbing them. If your glass is small enough fit the entire V into one of your slotted tubes. The tube won't do anything but capture the carriage if you get the rod too close to the magnets. If not, try to fit some kind of barrier to limit the upward travel. My first experiments didn't have anything like that so the rod grabbed the magnets quite a few times.
As to having the bar/rod over the front or rear half of the magnets, that sounds like a change in VTF issue which may clear up with the U clip setup. Next week I'll try to explore that. I wonder if the magnetic force vector being other than straight up is unloading the bearings more on one corner than the other, perhaps even to the point of making the bearing a rolling knife edge design. hmmmmm???
Too bad we can't achieve magnetic levitation with a few simple neodymium magnets.
If it turns out that simple reduction of carriage weight is the over riding benefit, I know I can shave some off my assembly, and from what I read, the full ceramic bearings should respond better than full steel ones.
I rather suspect that Bo explored these question early on before settling on his final design.
Fascinating stuff!
BillG
bearing lube
Has anyone tried Dricote router bearing lube in this application? Us woodsters reley on it, since anything smacking of WD-40 is a no-go. Out in the country, where I come from, gravel roads and all, folks with expired tags would spray their licenses with WD and the dust would stick to the tag. It smells nice though. Long term lubricant...not so much.
Has anyone tried Dricote router bearing lube in this application? Us woodsters reley on it, since anything smacking of WD-40 is a no-go. Out in the country, where I come from, gravel roads and all, folks with expired tags would spray their licenses with WD and the dust would stick to the tag. It smells nice though. Long term lubricant...not so much.
bearing lube
Has anyone tried Dricote router bearing lube in this application? Us woodsters reley on it, since anything smacking of WD-40 is a no-go. Out in the country, where I come from, gravel roads and all, folks with expired tags would spray their licenses with WD and the dust would stick to the tag. It smells nice though. Long term lubricant...not so much.
Has anyone tried Dricote router bearing lube in this application? Us woodsters reley on it, since anything smacking of WD-40 is a no-go. Out in the country, where I come from, gravel roads and all, folks with expired tags would spray their licenses with WD and the dust would stick to the tag. It smells nice though. Long term lubricant...not so much.
BillG,
I'll eventually put some kind of lid over the bearings, but for now I'm just trying to attach the glass trough to the current support block
"I wonder if the magnetic force vector being other than straight up is unloading the bearings more on one corner than the other, perhaps even to the point of making the bearing a rolling knife edge design. hmmmmm???"
Yep.
"Too bad we can't achieve magnetic levitation with a few simple neodymium magnets."
Eventually. With any luck, sooner rather than later.
"If it turns out that simple reduction of carriage weight is the over riding benefit, I know I can shave some off my assembly"
I've been rethinking that: The mag guide may mean heavier arms, meaning longer wands, are possible, which might make it possible to push the support arm behind the record edge. There's still an upper limit to how much mass a stylus can move, though. So, if the longer wand is possible, some clever weight reduction would be part of the equation. At some point we're going to have to do some resonance measurements, too.
"I rather suspect that Bo explored these question early on before settling on his final design."
And might be amused/bemused by our machinations.
I'll eventually put some kind of lid over the bearings, but for now I'm just trying to attach the glass trough to the current support block
"I wonder if the magnetic force vector being other than straight up is unloading the bearings more on one corner than the other, perhaps even to the point of making the bearing a rolling knife edge design. hmmmmm???"
Yep.
"Too bad we can't achieve magnetic levitation with a few simple neodymium magnets."
Eventually. With any luck, sooner rather than later.
"If it turns out that simple reduction of carriage weight is the over riding benefit, I know I can shave some off my assembly"
I've been rethinking that: The mag guide may mean heavier arms, meaning longer wands, are possible, which might make it possible to push the support arm behind the record edge. There's still an upper limit to how much mass a stylus can move, though. So, if the longer wand is possible, some clever weight reduction would be part of the equation. At some point we're going to have to do some resonance measurements, too.
"I rather suspect that Bo explored these question early on before settling on his final design."
And might be amused/bemused by our machinations.
I Luv Magnets (but)
After some crude experiments with some very inconclusive results I need to get my somewhat less crude arm cleaned up to the point where it looks and runs like the well developed component that it really is. Then I can work on subsequent developments. I feel like the space rocket designer racing out to the launching pad as the smoke starts up, holding a blueprint in his hand and crying out "WAIT, WAIT A MINUTE"!!
In an effort to pin down some very minor problems I have been looking at my arm in action and testing its response to external perturbations (today's good word). I would say that the most annoying problem is the occasional groove skipping. I have removed the bearing shields to completely flush them clean and they can be observed carefully while playing. With records running out by 2 to 25 thousandths at the rim, the arm tracks even that small run-out flawlessly and the movement of the balls the inner race rides on follows the forward and backward motion smoothly and instantly. No sign of stickiness. I don't have a record with larger eccentricity. Have to make one for testing.
What did show up was that the drape of the leads from the cartridge to the phono cables as well as whether or not they were getting hung up on anything, even just friction against the plinth was critical. If the wires were free at all points and there was one continuous curve there was usually no problem. If the curve was such that the moving carriage was pushing, more or less, against the end of the wire and trying to get a curved direction started again, we had trouble. Also it could be seen that the weight of the wire was changing the VTF The wire I was using was not as flexible as I would have liked it to be but not too bad. It worked most of the time. So last night I rewired the arm using varnished magnet wire straight off the spool. The gouge was AWG 32 to 36. Spool unmarked but wire very fine. Twisted one pair left and one pair right with a modest twist rate and then very loosely twisted the two channels together. Draped the wire to have only a smooth arc some 6 to 8 inches long and suspended so it wasn't affecting the VTF an observable amount. Used the stylus deflection, up or down as an indicator. The new wire seems to have corrected the problem. Gotta get some good and very flexible phono wire. Sound wise though, I'm of the wire is wire school.
BillG
After some crude experiments with some very inconclusive results I need to get my somewhat less crude arm cleaned up to the point where it looks and runs like the well developed component that it really is. Then I can work on subsequent developments. I feel like the space rocket designer racing out to the launching pad as the smoke starts up, holding a blueprint in his hand and crying out "WAIT, WAIT A MINUTE"!!
In an effort to pin down some very minor problems I have been looking at my arm in action and testing its response to external perturbations (today's good word). I would say that the most annoying problem is the occasional groove skipping. I have removed the bearing shields to completely flush them clean and they can be observed carefully while playing. With records running out by 2 to 25 thousandths at the rim, the arm tracks even that small run-out flawlessly and the movement of the balls the inner race rides on follows the forward and backward motion smoothly and instantly. No sign of stickiness. I don't have a record with larger eccentricity. Have to make one for testing.
What did show up was that the drape of the leads from the cartridge to the phono cables as well as whether or not they were getting hung up on anything, even just friction against the plinth was critical. If the wires were free at all points and there was one continuous curve there was usually no problem. If the curve was such that the moving carriage was pushing, more or less, against the end of the wire and trying to get a curved direction started again, we had trouble. Also it could be seen that the weight of the wire was changing the VTF The wire I was using was not as flexible as I would have liked it to be but not too bad. It worked most of the time. So last night I rewired the arm using varnished magnet wire straight off the spool. The gouge was AWG 32 to 36. Spool unmarked but wire very fine. Twisted one pair left and one pair right with a modest twist rate and then very loosely twisted the two channels together. Draped the wire to have only a smooth arc some 6 to 8 inches long and suspended so it wasn't affecting the VTF an observable amount. Used the stylus deflection, up or down as an indicator. The new wire seems to have corrected the problem. Gotta get some good and very flexible phono wire. Sound wise though, I'm of the wire is wire school.
BillG
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Glass Trak
Hi Doug,
BUMP! How are you progressing with your glass trak? I've been busy here too and have not had any time for LT experiments in several weeks. Drop in with some news from your shop.
BillG
Hi Doug,
BUMP! How are you progressing with your glass trak? I've been busy here too and have not had any time for LT experiments in several weeks. Drop in with some news from your shop.
BillG
Good morning,
I've gotten the glass track built with a new carriage, with taller bearings, to accommodate the higher walls. The glass has a wood cradle and the V is angled at 120 degrees. The carriage came in at about 47 gr. I polished the bearing corners and I agree that it makes a difference. The carriage rides very smoothly on the track, noticeably smoother than the copper tube. The vertical movement is also smooth and setting VTF seems to be accurate and not difficult.
I tried a single magnet, under the blue tape, for the mag guide. It works, but is very finicky, effective at only one very specific setting, and generally isn't satisfactory, so I'm going to modify the carriage for dual magnets. The single magnet sometimes seems to act as a pivot.
I may also try increasing the carriage weight.
Without the mag guide, the stylus is hunting badly. I think I'm just going to have to spring for some quality bearings. In some ways, the glass track emphasizes the bearing deficiencies - if things aren't working right, it's not the fault of the track surface.
I've changed so many things, there's really no way to compare this model to the previous one.
The real world may get in the way for a while, but I'll post when there are new results.
I've gotten the glass track built with a new carriage, with taller bearings, to accommodate the higher walls. The glass has a wood cradle and the V is angled at 120 degrees. The carriage came in at about 47 gr. I polished the bearing corners and I agree that it makes a difference. The carriage rides very smoothly on the track, noticeably smoother than the copper tube. The vertical movement is also smooth and setting VTF seems to be accurate and not difficult.
I tried a single magnet, under the blue tape, for the mag guide. It works, but is very finicky, effective at only one very specific setting, and generally isn't satisfactory, so I'm going to modify the carriage for dual magnets. The single magnet sometimes seems to act as a pivot.
I may also try increasing the carriage weight.
Without the mag guide, the stylus is hunting badly. I think I'm just going to have to spring for some quality bearings. In some ways, the glass track emphasizes the bearing deficiencies - if things aren't working right, it's not the fault of the track surface.
I've changed so many things, there's really no way to compare this model to the previous one.
The real world may get in the way for a while, but I'll post when there are new results.
Attachments
There is a new version with VTA adjustment and some other changes. It is more expensive...
I have not read the whole thread but the original designer, Bo Hansson, died in the spring of 2011. Production continues as before.
Roger
drycote lube
Hi Phivates,
In answering your question I haven't tried drycote yet and I suspect the other lads building these arms also haven't either. I'm sure some one or two of us will before too long. So far there is general agreement from all including the arm designer, Bo Hansson (deceased) that the bearings should be run dry and very clean.
Rgds,
BillG
Hi Phivates,
In answering your question I haven't tried drycote yet and I suspect the other lads building these arms also haven't either. I'm sure some one or two of us will before too long. So far there is general agreement from all including the arm designer, Bo Hansson (deceased) that the bearings should be run dry and very clean.
Rgds,
BillG
Oh, man,
A pop physics quiz first thing in the morning. I got some schooling in this same question on another forum. Let's see if I retained anything. Mass is a property of all material. Weight is gravity working on mass. So, the mass of the arm - carriage, bearings, headshell, etc - doesn't change because of the magnets. If the assembly has a mass of 60 gr., the stylus still has to move that mass horizontally. What the magnets do is reduce the weight carried by the bearings, which in turn reduces the bearing friction so there is less impedance to that movement.
I'm still not confident of the theory - high school was about 50 years ago for me, too - but it does seem to work that way in practice.
A pop physics quiz first thing in the morning. I got some schooling in this same question on another forum. Let's see if I retained anything. Mass is a property of all material. Weight is gravity working on mass. So, the mass of the arm - carriage, bearings, headshell, etc - doesn't change because of the magnets. If the assembly has a mass of 60 gr., the stylus still has to move that mass horizontally. What the magnets do is reduce the weight carried by the bearings, which in turn reduces the bearing friction so there is less impedance to that movement.
I'm still not confident of the theory - high school was about 50 years ago for me, too - but it does seem to work that way in practice.
Good evening and thanks for the update,
Your glass track looks to be well done. You ran into the same problem as I did by making the glass sides too tall. If you check my pics you will see my solution. Make the glass slips .25 to .30 inches wide and the wood cradle small enough so the glass edge is up above the cradle. Better yet use two cradles, one at each end of the track where the bearings never go. You may have to use a slightly longer track. Now you should be able to use the bearings you have used successfully before. Also note that with my smaller bearings I had to undercut the bearing support rods with a file to make a half round recess in them for the edge of the glass. My design uses 90 deg angle for the V but I think your 120 deg may actually better. As I said in a previous post I used the 90deg because I had one all made up at the time. We go to great length to secure a good smooth and hard surface for the track. Then we roll two bearings along its surface. The rolling edges have to be as nearly the same surface finish as the glass. I'm glad you have found the glass to be better than the copper tube. Now think about what happens inside the bearing. The bearing races are like a linear track but rolled up into a circle. Now we have some steel balls trapped in that circle and rolling on it. For best performance the balls and races will need to have the equivalent surfaces as the outer race corners and the glass track. Once we meet or closely approach that condition these LT arms work really well from what we read and have experienced. I assume your stylus "hunting" is where the carriage is sitting still, stuck as it were in one spot until the side thrust from the record groove overcomes the obstacle(s) and the stylus moves backward to its center position. All my comments apply to the best of my knowledge. Playing a record with my setup I can watch the stylus remain centered in the magnetic gap and watch the bearing roll in its races as the carriage goes back and forth following any ex-eccentricity of the records. So, if your smaller bearings don't work out with the glass, I guess you will have to pop for some better ones. Do you have a specialty bearing supply house within reach where you could go to make a selection in person? Good luck with your efforts, I think you are very close to the ideal conditions.
BillG
P.S. Yes, with some practice you can cut 1/4" wide 10 to 12 inch long strips. Edge them on fine wet-dry abrasive paper.
BG
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Doug,
When I started playing with the mag guide idea briefly I had the misfortune of contacting one of my bearings with a magnet. Suspecting a potential problem I removed all magnets from proximity to the carriage, like far away. Then I spun the bearing. It didn't run for long and always came to a stop in the same orientation. Mind you, this bearing was "magnetized". So I cleaned it carefully and demagnetized it. Have a big bulk tape demagnetizer but for this job I just used my soldering gun. It was easy and handy. Bearing ran fine after degaussing. Tried re-magnetizing again and same results. I've not tried using a magnetized bearing in the functional LT arm. But it is a safe assumption that a compromised bearing will affect the tracking performance. I didn't mention this earlier because my problem was clearly the result of my own carelessness rather than the magnets in what we assume would be their proper position for the mag guide. Please forgive me for not raising a flag on this one. For now I have discontinued the mag guide experiments. Could be that a full ceramic bearing would be made from nonferrous, non magnetic ceramic material and therefore immune to the proximity of the magnets. Will have to check that one out.
If the ball bearing assembly gets magnetized so that there is a north pole on the rim of the outer race and a south pole on the other side, 180 degrees away, a similar magnetizing of the balls and inner race will take place. Now rotate the inner race any number of degrees and let go of it, It (the inner race) it will rotate back to its static magnetized position and that there will be holding torque impeding its free rotation. Put an alternating polarity magnetic field external to the outer race and the inner race should run nicely as an electric motor.
Keep me informed as to your progress please.
BillG
When I started playing with the mag guide idea briefly I had the misfortune of contacting one of my bearings with a magnet. Suspecting a potential problem I removed all magnets from proximity to the carriage, like far away. Then I spun the bearing. It didn't run for long and always came to a stop in the same orientation. Mind you, this bearing was "magnetized". So I cleaned it carefully and demagnetized it. Have a big bulk tape demagnetizer but for this job I just used my soldering gun. It was easy and handy. Bearing ran fine after degaussing. Tried re-magnetizing again and same results. I've not tried using a magnetized bearing in the functional LT arm. But it is a safe assumption that a compromised bearing will affect the tracking performance. I didn't mention this earlier because my problem was clearly the result of my own carelessness rather than the magnets in what we assume would be their proper position for the mag guide. Please forgive me for not raising a flag on this one. For now I have discontinued the mag guide experiments. Could be that a full ceramic bearing would be made from nonferrous, non magnetic ceramic material and therefore immune to the proximity of the magnets. Will have to check that one out.
If the ball bearing assembly gets magnetized so that there is a north pole on the rim of the outer race and a south pole on the other side, 180 degrees away, a similar magnetizing of the balls and inner race will take place. Now rotate the inner race any number of degrees and let go of it, It (the inner race) it will rotate back to its static magnetized position and that there will be holding torque impeding its free rotation. Put an alternating polarity magnetic field external to the outer race and the inner race should run nicely as an electric motor.
Keep me informed as to your progress please.
BillG
For anybody who wants to experiment with BillG's "GlasTrak" but has doubts about working with glass, 1/2" wide stainless steel strips bonded to a 1/2" aluminum angle works very well. All that stuff is available in hardware stores.
BillG: About that demagnetizing technique? I put the bearing between the heating elements without touching anything and pull it out slowly and move it away - is that right? I caused my own grief with the magnetized bearings. It just never occurred to me that there might be a problem and I got careless. I think a couple of the bearings were attracted to the steel strips mentioned above, too. On aluminum, they ran freely; on the steel, they bogged down a bit.
I've ordered some higher quality bearings than I've been using. They'll be here in a couple of days. Thoroughly baffled the sales rep in the store I bought them from but she decided to indulge me.
BillG: About that demagnetizing technique? I put the bearing between the heating elements without touching anything and pull it out slowly and move it away - is that right? I caused my own grief with the magnetized bearings. It just never occurred to me that there might be a problem and I got careless. I think a couple of the bearings were attracted to the steel strips mentioned above, too. On aluminum, they ran freely; on the steel, they bogged down a bit.
I've ordered some higher quality bearings than I've been using. They'll be here in a couple of days. Thoroughly baffled the sales rep in the store I bought them from but she decided to indulge me.
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