Big Maggies are amazing. However they are very demanding for room, need to be placed away form walls, and do need good amps, not fancy HiFi boxes that claimed to be 150-300 watts
Krell FBP 350 watts mono blocks can drive them easily (it was my setup).
Another better option through away speaker's crossovers and get special designed active crossovers (could be purchased on eBay) and drive panels directly two amps per each panel.
Bass is superb - nothing come close to Magneplanars.
Krell FBP 350 watts mono blocks can drive them easily (it was my setup).Another better option through away speaker's crossovers and get special designed active crossovers (could be purchased on eBay) and drive panels directly two amps per each panel.
Bass is superb - nothing come close to Magneplanars.
Yup, I have Tympani IVa's. These 6' tall speakers are huge three panel jobbies. I have a DIY Krell 50 diving them in winter (Class A - makes for a nice heater), and a pair of cool running monoblock ICEPower ASP1000's for summer summer.
Bass is phenominal and the ribbon tweeter is to die for. Would like to have the ASP1000 on Bass duty and Krells on the midrange/tweeters. I have a DCX2496 digital crossover that I may use one day to biamp...
By the way, I have re wired tweeter panels on SMGa's before. Not a lot of work. I went to Rat Shack and got 36 guage copper magnet wire. Worked a charm.
Bass is phenominal and the ribbon tweeter is to die for. Would like to have the ASP1000 on Bass duty and Krells on the midrange/tweeters. I have a DCX2496 digital crossover that I may use one day to biamp...
By the way, I have re wired tweeter panels on SMGa's before. Not a lot of work. I went to Rat Shack and got 36 guage copper magnet wire. Worked a charm.
Yeah I gotta do that. Did you place the wire right on top of the magnets and what glues did you use?
I've read everything from rubber cement to 3M 77 spray on and UV protection.
Biamping - Cool, cool. What is the freq response of the bass driver?
How does the SMGa compare with the ESL-57 electrostats?
I have compared them to the Apogee Duettas and which were a lot more money.
I am rather surprised that the Mag SMGa sold for so little money back then compared to the Apogees.
How does the SMGa compare with the ESL-57 electrostats?
I have compared them to the Apogee Duettas and which were a lot more money.
I am rather surprised that the Mag SMGa sold for so little money back then compared to the Apogees.
Biamping the SMGA's is usually not recommended.
That being said, I have mine biamped and they sound great. You will need a 6db (first order) crossover at 600hz. You won't find one on ebay.
You can do this passively at line level with 4 20k resistors and 4 10n caps but buffers on both sides are better.
Because the crossovers are series, you can't simply biwire.
That being said, I have mine biamped and they sound great. You will need a 6db (first order) crossover at 600hz. You won't find one on ebay.
You can do this passively at line level with 4 20k resistors and 4 10n caps but buffers on both sides are better.
Because the crossovers are series, you can't simply biwire.
Not to take anything away from the SMGa's,, but understand the Duettas require a lot more power than the SMGa to sound right. Not really a good comparision...the Duettas and a 3.6 on a powerfull amp would be a better comparision.
You can biamp SMGa, but as Deepthrob indicates, the orig crossover is a series crossover, and not a typical parallel...
Also, I liked the MMG's much more than the SMGa's. Sound was alot more crisp and clear...
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tmblack ,
On the side oak wood pieces , there should be 4 to 5 screws that hold those trim pieces on. Remove those screws . There might be
a screw or two on the top of the top oak piece , remove it (them) also .
The bases will have screws that need to be removed also . Once all the screws have been removed , the wood pieces will come off the speaker with ease , if not , there are still some screws holding the wood trim to the speaker frame .
Once all the wood is off the speaker frame , locate the bottom end of the speaker , there , You will find numerous staples that need to be removed , to be able to remove the sock .
Don't forget to remove the screws from the plate on the back of the speaker , that the speaker wires connect to . . . once all this done , You'll be able to roll the sock up and off the speaker .
Good Luck , it's not hard , just time consuming , removing all the staples .
Cheers , Stephen
On the side oak wood pieces , there should be 4 to 5 screws that hold those trim pieces on. Remove those screws . There might be
a screw or two on the top of the top oak piece , remove it (them) also .
The bases will have screws that need to be removed also . Once all the screws have been removed , the wood pieces will come off the speaker with ease , if not , there are still some screws holding the wood trim to the speaker frame .
Once all the wood is off the speaker frame , locate the bottom end of the speaker , there , You will find numerous staples that need to be removed , to be able to remove the sock .
Don't forget to remove the screws from the plate on the back of the speaker , that the speaker wires connect to . . . once all this done , You'll be able to roll the sock up and off the speaker .
Good Luck , it's not hard , just time consuming , removing all the staples .
Cheers , Stephen
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