Good to hear. Are you saying the ps version measures better or sounds better? If the former, post some plots, I'd like to see them in an actual speaker.
I think you might lose more performance due to the difference in acoustic depth than you will due to 1dB or so in response difference offaxis. What frequency are you crossing at? Sounds high enough that I would probably use a small format tweeter, like SB26STCN.
Measures and sound better.
When measured that significant drop which I was posting here earlier in highest octave is gone.
When listening is more spacious, more 3d and "air"
rafabro,
Sorry, if already mentioned before, but which tweeter are you using? I can find one post where you mention SB Acoustics Textreme:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...uides-for-cnc-3d-printing.318190/post-7555881
Sorry, if already mentioned before, but which tweeter are you using? I can find one post where you mention SB Acoustics Textreme:
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...uides-for-cnc-3d-printing.318190/post-7555881
@augerpro I am assuming the measurement are of the drive in the box and on the baffle you intend to use, if not please disregard the info below.
If so, here is a starter for ten. Second order electrical plus a tank to control breakup and a notch to take into account the baffle step. I used the impedance plot from the SB datasheet for reference.
I am nowhere near an expert but might give you something to work on. Others please chip in as this is a pretty basic attempt using the data provided and so may be a load of rubbish.
If so, here is a starter for ten. Second order electrical plus a tank to control breakup and a notch to take into account the baffle step. I used the impedance plot from the SB datasheet for reference.
I am nowhere near an expert but might give you something to work on. Others please chip in as this is a pretty basic attempt using the data provided and so may be a load of rubbish.
@augerpro I inputted the impedance data and it did not change the frequency plot, minimum impedance is 3.0ohm between 220hz and 400hz. Obviously this may change when you add in the tweeter data and you are likely to have to modify the woofer filters to get the phase to lineup correctly. Also there is no off axis data as this again needs the tweeter data to be modeled. I have overlaid the original data (no crossover for reference (orange dotted line). You might get away without the tank filter but the parts are relatively cheap so probably worth keeping in and see if it helps.
Anyway, it's a start and looks a fairly easy woofer to get to where you want it to be. Hope it helps but the usual caveats apply.
Anyway, it's a start and looks a fairly easy woofer to get to where you want it to be. Hope it helps but the usual caveats apply.
Wow such an amazing resource, thanks Augerpro (and others who contributed)! I'll be sure to donate when I get a little further with my build.
I'd really appreciate some noob-level advice. I was thinking to pair the SB26CDC with Satori MW16P-8 woofers, which is how I stumbled upon this thread (after much reading about directivity mismatch and such).
It seems like the best matchup for the woofer would be to use the 6.5x1.2 elliptical WG for the tweeter.. do we know how close this would be to acoustically centered with the 6.5" Satori?
Could anyone provide extra advice on securing the WG to the tweeter? I saw mention of blue tack and tape (are we talking any strong tape like gorilla tape?)? and then saw post #147 showing a wooden block used to clamp the tweeter to the WG.. does that mean the printable files have threads in those 2 holes (on the back side of the WG)?
A couple more questions: it's typically less expensive to CNC or 3d print these? Best print material or type of print process? -I saw 40-70% in-fill mentioned.. anything else I should know?
Sorry for such basic questions. I learned a lot reading through many pages of this thread, just want to make sure I can figure out the best methods of assembly and that I'm choosing the best WG. Someone hold my hand please, hehehe. I'm so excited to hear the end results!
I'd really appreciate some noob-level advice. I was thinking to pair the SB26CDC with Satori MW16P-8 woofers, which is how I stumbled upon this thread (after much reading about directivity mismatch and such).
It seems like the best matchup for the woofer would be to use the 6.5x1.2 elliptical WG for the tweeter.. do we know how close this would be to acoustically centered with the 6.5" Satori?
Could anyone provide extra advice on securing the WG to the tweeter? I saw mention of blue tack and tape (are we talking any strong tape like gorilla tape?)? and then saw post #147 showing a wooden block used to clamp the tweeter to the WG.. does that mean the printable files have threads in those 2 holes (on the back side of the WG)?
A couple more questions: it's typically less expensive to CNC or 3d print these? Best print material or type of print process? -I saw 40-70% in-fill mentioned.. anything else I should know?
Sorry for such basic questions. I learned a lot reading through many pages of this thread, just want to make sure I can figure out the best methods of assembly and that I'm choosing the best WG. Someone hold my hand please, hehehe. I'm so excited to hear the end results!
The 6.5" is wider than the woofer and that bother some people. I'm personally using the 6" with that size woofer.
There are two unthreaded holes in the print, so a variety of screws and bolts can take a hold. I would measure the distance between the holes and make a small wood brace as in the picture. Use thick foam or rubber under the brace so you don't put too much force on the tweeter.
Printing is usually cheapest, although with some materials/processes it can become cheaper to CNC them in aluminum. I really like nylon SLS or MJF process. These are 100% fill. Very strong and stiff.
There are two unthreaded holes in the print, so a variety of screws and bolts can take a hold. I would measure the distance between the holes and make a small wood brace as in the picture. Use thick foam or rubber under the brace so you don't put too much force on the tweeter.
Printing is usually cheapest, although with some materials/processes it can become cheaper to CNC them in aluminum. I really like nylon SLS or MJF process. These are 100% fill. Very strong and stiff.
Ahh, I see the 6.5" ellipse is actually 7.25" wide.. That wouldn't bother me though. I'm more interested in the acoustic centering. The 6" is 1" deep vs the 1.2" for the ellipse yeah? So, I'm inferring that 1" depth is a better timing match for the 6.5" woofer?
Thanks again, seriously appreciate your breakdown of the assembly process and recommendations for the printing!
Thanks again, seriously appreciate your breakdown of the assembly process and recommendations for the printing!