Re: Xono output caps are C25 & C26
Sam - the Xono schematic is not public. So you're on your own
unless you can convince someone to help you out with tracing
the circuit around. All I can tell you is what the Ono schematic
says:
C7 and C9 are the output caps; they're 10 uF - probably film
types but I've not got a clue what brand in the "real deal".
C7 is on the + output, so if you use only single ended output
you could bypass only this one and you'll be happy.
But since you have an Xono, get yourself an ohm-meter and
probe between the output connectors and the legs of the output
caps in your amp and you'll very quickly figure out which is the
one you want to bypass. Or if it's easy to lift out the board,
just follow the traces.
Sam GT said:The output caps on my Xono are C25 and C26. Using single ended only with a MC input, C25 or C26 to bypass?? Not both right? Teflon caps cost $$$$ and them some . Thanks for your help and
priceless information . Sam
Sam - the Xono schematic is not public. So you're on your own
unless you can convince someone to help you out with tracing
the circuit around. All I can tell you is what the Ono schematic
says:
C7 and C9 are the output caps; they're 10 uF - probably film
types but I've not got a clue what brand in the "real deal".
C7 is on the + output, so if you use only single ended output
you could bypass only this one and you'll be happy.
But since you have an Xono, get yourself an ohm-meter and
probe between the output connectors and the legs of the output
caps in your amp and you'll very quickly figure out which is the
one you want to bypass. Or if it's easy to lift out the board,
just follow the traces.
i agree with netlist. However, the schematics can be found quite easily around here if you search. Perhaps start by sorting all the Pass Labs threads by number of views and looking at the first few Ono threads. My take on it is, if these posts were not allowed, the mods would have removed them.
That being said, please don't contact me for schematics.
dviswa:
Newark can order them through Farnell. If you're interested on splitting the $25 per order fee, please contact me I'd be willing to do a mini group buy on them for people in the US. Others are welcome to join in.
That being said, please don't contact me for schematics.
dviswa:
Newark can order them through Farnell. If you're interested on splitting the $25 per order fee, please contact me I'd be willing to do a mini group buy on them for people in the US. Others are welcome to join in.
luvdunhill said:
Just to clarify - the Ono schematics are available and I'm using a
hard copy I made years ago from a download off the Pass Labs
webiste. Since the Ono was posted freely, it is public domain,
for which us amateur builders thank Nelson for his generosity.
The Xono on the other hand is a shipping product and therefore
(since the Pass Labs crew are earning part of their pay based on
the Xono product) its schematic has not been made public.
If you're paying attention to posts here and there about the
Xono, look at the Ono schematic, and the Pearl design, you can
come up with something that is a mix of the 3 products... but
it's still not an Xono.
The fun was spoiled a couple years ago by a bunch of scoundrels
who thought it was fair play to copy the public domain designs
and sell as products.
Clearly the DIY segment is supposed to be a hobby as opposed
to a business.
So - in summary - if you're looking for help with the Xono, you're
kinda on your own unless you can get help from another Xono
owner who tinkered a bit.
Hello
I have looked on the forum, and this matter is very interesting.
Do you know where I can find the capacitors of teflon crc.?
I want to change the capacitors of the solid state phono, of the riaa and those presents in the road of the signal of joining.
I for the riaa have little space, the capacitors are from 27nf and 4,7nf and I want to know what capacitors you to recommend for riaa.
I for the joinings have a lot of space, the capacitors are from 3,3uf.
I would like one suggestion of yours.
graces and regards
I have looked on the forum, and this matter is very interesting.
Do you know where I can find the capacitors of teflon crc.?
I want to change the capacitors of the solid state phono, of the riaa and those presents in the road of the signal of joining.
I for the riaa have little space, the capacitors are from 27nf and 4,7nf and I want to know what capacitors you to recommend for riaa.
I for the joinings have a lot of space, the capacitors are from 3,3uf.
I would like one suggestion of yours.
graces and regards
Ok. I replaced all the electrolytics with Black Gates on the commercial XOno (except 4.7uF C28) leaving the .047uF PP bypasses and got all the tonal color back that was missing. I ran the caps in about 150hrs so far. Highs are just a little smidge rolled off typical for BGs but still very musical. Would I be better to parallel with something else like .01uF Vishay Roederstain MKP 1837s? I realize this is somewhat subjective.
There's just a bit of haze still -- most noticeable in the highs.
Thought I'd go after the RIAA caps replacing the C4 & C5 PPs with Relcap polystyrenes. These will be matched to within .1% and I hope will result in just a bit sweeter highs.
Next will be the rectifier bridges. I have individual Schottkys for replacement but the PS bridge is a package type. Anyone know where I can get 100v 2+ amp Schottky bridge packages with + ~ ~ - layout?
Barry
There's just a bit of haze still -- most noticeable in the highs.
Thought I'd go after the RIAA caps replacing the C4 & C5 PPs with Relcap polystyrenes. These will be matched to within .1% and I hope will result in just a bit sweeter highs.
Next will be the rectifier bridges. I have individual Schottkys for replacement but the PS bridge is a package type. Anyone know where I can get 100v 2+ amp Schottky bridge packages with + ~ ~ - layout?
Barry
Bypass Caps
I don't know if it's generally accepted as "right" or not, but I bypass almost every electrolytic cap I find with a 1 to 100 nF polypropylene or polystyrene cap. In power supplies and especially in the signal path, I will sometimes use a couple of different values on each cap I bypass.
I have found it has helped in most cases and given me peace of mind in the cases where I didn't notice much difference, or there were multiple changes and I couldn't attribute the difference to only that.
Has anyone ever run into any problems after bypassing 'lytics?
Thanks,
Donovan
I don't know if it's generally accepted as "right" or not, but I bypass almost every electrolytic cap I find with a 1 to 100 nF polypropylene or polystyrene cap. In power supplies and especially in the signal path, I will sometimes use a couple of different values on each cap I bypass.
I have found it has helped in most cases and given me peace of mind in the cases where I didn't notice much difference, or there were multiple changes and I couldn't attribute the difference to only that.
Has anyone ever run into any problems after bypassing 'lytics?
Thanks,
Donovan
Barry:
It somewhat conventional wisdom (if this is not a contradiction in terms) that Black Gates almost always sound worse bypassed. I used mostly N or NX in my Xono and found this to be true. Where I used the standard series, I didn't experiment.
I used the Relcap polystyrenes (RTE - Polystyrene Film and Foil) and they sound fantastic. They were leagues better than other stuff I tried. I say go for it!
It somewhat conventional wisdom (if this is not a contradiction in terms) that Black Gates almost always sound worse bypassed. I used mostly N or NX in my Xono and found this to be true. Where I used the standard series, I didn't experiment.
I used the Relcap polystyrenes (RTE - Polystyrene Film and Foil) and they sound fantastic. They were leagues better than other stuff I tried. I say go for it!
Final changes - wow!
Ok. All the changes have been made in addition to the Black Gates. Changed the RIAA caps to Rel-caps, added Vishay resistors to the network; replaced the PS bridges with Schottkys; zeroed out the DC with trimpots and removed the 4 output coupling caps.
No one said that at start-up the DC output could be as high as 6 volts! "Hasta la vista, baby" if your preamp and amps are accidently switched to phono...truely a killer mod!
It settles down nicely to +/- 1-2mv around zero after about 10 minutes.
The tonal color was restored with the Black Gates. With this mod the immediacy and transparency is nothing short of amazing.
Ok. All the changes have been made in addition to the Black Gates. Changed the RIAA caps to Rel-caps, added Vishay resistors to the network; replaced the PS bridges with Schottkys; zeroed out the DC with trimpots and removed the 4 output coupling caps.
No one said that at start-up the DC output could be as high as 6 volts! "Hasta la vista, baby" if your preamp and amps are accidently switched to phono...truely a killer mod!
It settles down nicely to +/- 1-2mv around zero after about 10 minutes.
The tonal color was restored with the Black Gates. With this mod the immediacy and transparency is nothing short of amazing.
I'd love to get rid of the coupling caps also in my Pearl I with Ono MC pre-pre.
Does all of this said here in this topic apply to the Ono MC board designed by Promitheus?
Ono MC for Pearl: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/78441-pearl-mc-pre-preamp.html
There's also this thread by Stefano: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/131006-couple-questions-phono-ono.html
Does all of this said here in this topic apply to the Ono MC board designed by Promitheus?
Ono MC for Pearl: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/78441-pearl-mc-pre-preamp.html
There's also this thread by Stefano: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/131006-couple-questions-phono-ono.html
I use 47uF and can't tell a difference. I have considered going lower and also am interested in what others have done.
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