C9 and C10 are the primary filter capacitors.
i finally received the 1n5366 diode from mouser.com, replaced it, and the noise is still there (it needed replacing anyway, though. that eliminates that problem). upon closer inspection, the capacitors look like they have leaked in the past. you can see discoloration like some sort of liquid seeped between the translucent plastic covering and its metal case. do these caps commonly go out/leak in this model of amplifier?
Almost sounds like the amp case isn't shielded and the radio is picking up the toroid pulses.
how is the amp case shielded?
I believe one or more of the allen screws on the edge of the board tightens on a board trace that connects power ground. This makes the amp heatsink ground to keep the rf inside. Otherwise I would think your power and ground wires are radiating due to the amp having an internal problem in the power supply section.
Actually the screw that grounds to the sink may not be on the edge, I just found a pic of a 200dsm. Its been a while since I've seen the inside of a dsm.
Actually the screw that grounds to the sink may not be on the edge, I just found a pic of a 200dsm. Its been a while since I've seen the inside of a dsm.
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I believe one or more of the allen screws on the edge of the board tightens on a board trace that connects power ground. This makes the amp heatsink ground to keep the rf inside. Otherwise I would think your power and ground wires are radiating due to the amp having an internal problem in the power supply section.
Actually the screw that grounds to the sink may not be on the edge, I just found a pic of a 200dsm. Its been a while since I've seen the inside of a dsm.
i dont see anywhere where the allen screws could ground any traces on this model. all of the screw holes on the pcb have no traces to touch the case.
Use an ohmmeter to check continuity between the heatsink and the power ground terminal on the amp, it needs to be connected for noise shielding. The trace may be on the bottom of the board surrounding a screw hole. Be sure there is not paint or anything keeping the trace from conducting to the sink.
Some of the older punch amps used a small jumper that connected the ground trace on the board to the heatsink
Some of the older punch amps used a small jumper that connected the ground trace on the board to the heatsink
Use an ohmmeter to check continuity between the heatsink and the power ground terminal on the amp, it needs to be connected for noise shielding. The trace may be on the bottom of the board surrounding a screw hole. Be sure there is not paint or anything keeping the trace from conducting to the sink.
Some of the older punch amps used a small jumper that connected the ground trace on the board to the heatsink
my ohmmeter doesnt show any continuity. if there are any jumpers, was it one that physically screwed on to the heatsink on one end and a ground trace on the other? other than that, i dont see anywhere where the jumper/wire/etc could have attached to the pcb (either the bottom or the top of the board), since none of the screw holes are surrounded by any traces to connect to the case.
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There should be a jumper or trace ground. Can you see the bottom of the circuit board? Maybe post a pic of the top and bottom? The case needs to be connected to ground somehow.
i have the board out and there are no traces around the 4 screw holes that attach the board to the case.
If you want to ground the heatsink, scrape the solder mask from the copper plane around the hole (on the top of the board) and solder a loop of wire to it so that the screw will contact it when tightened down. Confirm that it's ground and not 12v before doing this.
on the punch 40dsm i am working on, none of the holes have any copper at all, but i am going to try to use a wire like you are saying. why doesnt rockford ground the heatsink on their amps? i replaced the cr7 diode that was burnt with a 1n5366, and the noise was still there. i looked at the filter capacitors c9 and c10 and i notice some corrosion/discoloration, especially with the orange c9 cap (like electrolyte seeped between the plastic cover and the metal case).
If the caps have leaked, they will likely be out of tolerance so they're not going to be able to do their job properly.
Rockford grounds the heatsinks on virtually all of their amps. There are only a few without grounded sinks. I've only seen it cause a problem once. That was on an 1100a2.
Rockford grounds the heatsinks on virtually all of their amps. There are only a few without grounded sinks. I've only seen it cause a problem once. That was on an 1100a2.
okay, i have grounded the heatsink/case by soldering a wire that connects the heatsink to the ground terminal (there is no copper/metal around the holes, thats why i had to use the ground terminal) but it still does it. that leads me to those caps or other internal issues; i'll keep plugging at it until i get this goin': I'm a fighter! thanks for all the help guys; im glad to make this forum home.
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okay, i have grounded the heatsink/case by soldering a wire that connects the heatsink to where the ground terminal connects to the board (there is no copper/metal around the holes; light shines through it, thats why i had to use the ground terminal) but it still does it. that leads me to those caps or other internal issues; i'll keep plugging at it until i get this goin': I'm a fighter! thanks for all the help guys; im glad to make this forum home.
I'd suggest replacing the primary filter capacitors. Order replacement that are 'low impedance' and rated for 105C. The following may fit. Confirm lead spacing.
667-EEU-FC1V331 (mouser)
i've already ordered them; they're on their way as i type. is this a common problem for these amplifiers?
p.s. i downloaded the electronics tutorial sites you host. theres a lot of good stuff on them!
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Some of the old amps were tough on the primary filter capacitors. I don't think this was one of them but the caps could have taken a beating if the amp was abused. A lot of the old amps had problems with broken leads on the caps but I guess that you would have noticed that.
You seem to be already deep into this, but did you try just moving the amp to a different location? Maybe by reorienting it you might detect a change in the interference? (I realize a small car limits mounting options.) The first step in squelching interference is to determine its source. Shotgunning can work also.
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- old school rockford punch 40dsm messes up fm reception horribly.