I'll have to 2nd what Marvin says here. I was baptized into the O2 world quite quickly this week as I began my search to find something a lil' bit better to drive my Magnum-based Grados and move up from my FiiO E11 amp.
"wje" from Head-Fi.org
Mr. Slim, I've responded with the information via PM.
With that being said, I want to open up to the community here at DIY Audio. Eventually, I'll start a poll on desired design / color options / changes, etc.
Again, this would only be done if others feel that a vers. 2 of the panel might need a bit of a "face lift" - no pun intended. However, I just wanted to let the members know here of my flexibility. I've been in an e-mail discussion with Front Panels Express and to get a single front panel built, the cost can run $15.00 - $20.00. However, whether we decide to run a batch of the current design or perform a slight modification and call it vers. 2, I'll then be able to start to check into quantity pricing - and where we get a price break in regards to how many panels we'd need to buy up.
Thanks,
P.S. - Though I've been a member here since 2005, I've rarely posted. However, Questhate (Marvin) has known me for quite some time on Head-Fi.org in the event anyone would need to collect references on my character. I'll assure you that in going forward with this, I'd provide the best represenation possible - along with keeping the group properly informed of activities as they progress.
With that being said, I want to open up to the community here at DIY Audio. Eventually, I'll start a poll on desired design / color options / changes, etc.
Again, this would only be done if others feel that a vers. 2 of the panel might need a bit of a "face lift" - no pun intended. However, I just wanted to let the members know here of my flexibility. I've been in an e-mail discussion with Front Panels Express and to get a single front panel built, the cost can run $15.00 - $20.00. However, whether we decide to run a batch of the current design or perform a slight modification and call it vers. 2, I'll then be able to start to check into quantity pricing - and where we get a price break in regards to how many panels we'd need to buy up.
Thanks,
P.S. - Though I've been a member here since 2005, I've rarely posted. However, Questhate (Marvin) has known me for quite some time on Head-Fi.org in the event anyone would need to collect references on my character. I'll assure you that in going forward with this, I'd provide the best represenation possible - along with keeping the group properly informed of activities as they progress.
Yeah, Flynhawaiin - I hope things went well with the tests. I'm sure you're ready to drop.
I paid a visit to Lowe's last evening. I found some 8/32" threaded bolts that are 1/2" long, are black and use a allan wrench to turn them into place. Ideally, I wish they had 6/32", but the 8/32" was the smallest. This will mean that I'll use my drill to slightly enlarge the case holes a bit. Also, the case screws are self-tapping screws, but the bolts I purchased are not. However, I have an 8/32" bolt that I'll use as a "chaser" to cut some threads by turning it into the aluminum case holes. The steel bolt, being harder than the aluminum will hopefully take care of the task.
I then found some small black rubber washers that I'll use to set in place before I start to drive the bolts into place. This will prevent the bolts from "turning" on the face plate when they get set and will prevent the face plate from scratching underneath the bolt areas.
A few extra steps, but hopefully will be well worth it in the end. It should class up the appearance a bit, too.
I paid a visit to Lowe's last evening. I found some 8/32" threaded bolts that are 1/2" long, are black and use a allan wrench to turn them into place. Ideally, I wish they had 6/32", but the 8/32" was the smallest. This will mean that I'll use my drill to slightly enlarge the case holes a bit. Also, the case screws are self-tapping screws, but the bolts I purchased are not. However, I have an 8/32" bolt that I'll use as a "chaser" to cut some threads by turning it into the aluminum case holes. The steel bolt, being harder than the aluminum will hopefully take care of the task.
I then found some small black rubber washers that I'll use to set in place before I start to drive the bolts into place. This will prevent the bolts from "turning" on the face plate when they get set and will prevent the face plate from scratching underneath the bolt areas.
A few extra steps, but hopefully will be well worth it in the end. It should class up the appearance a bit, too.
Yeah. I forgot to sleep on thursday nite and after my exam on friday slept through saturday. woops. I've got about 10 packages packed up, and I’m working on them. I give pops to everyone out there who has packaged things before. I have to pick someone up at the airport and will continue working on them tonight. My nice thermal label printer is up and working, after some fumbling around with it. Which is making printing out the labels much easier. Yet, it's printing them out a little light. But they are still readable.
So I’m making headway on them. T2T I purchased some philips head flat head 6-32 screws. The holes are counter sunk on the panels, due to space constraints with FPE. I recommend just using a counter sink bit and making them flush. The panels looks amazing and will produce a wonderfully looking amp. I'll take a few pictures of them in colored cases. I have a red, green, blue and black case.
Should give people an idea non-the-less. I hope to finally construct my amp sometime next week after all of the panels have been shipped out! Nothing like going on vacation with your soldering iron =)
So I’m making headway on them. T2T I purchased some philips head flat head 6-32 screws. The holes are counter sunk on the panels, due to space constraints with FPE. I recommend just using a counter sink bit and making them flush. The panels looks amazing and will produce a wonderfully looking amp. I'll take a few pictures of them in colored cases. I have a red, green, blue and black case.
Should give people an idea non-the-less. I hope to finally construct my amp sometime next week after all of the panels have been shipped out! Nothing like going on vacation with your soldering iron =)
flyn'
Good to hear you're back in order after your testing ordeal. I'm glad that portion of my life is behind me and I've been in the career field for 25 years now. However, there are still demands - but, they are more manageable.
I've found that Krylon has some excellent colors and I think I have about half of their collection on my shelf at home from various projects. I'm thinking of taking my case and using some oiled antique bronze to use on the main case. I'll then apply a few coats of clear coat to protect the finish better and use 4 small rubber stick-on feet to keep the amp from sliding (and to protect) the finish when used on a desktop or table top.
There's no limit to what can be come up with in regards to ideas. I might search for those 6-32 phillips counter-sunk screws and rethink my current idea of using the other method that I devised.
Either way, it will create some disruption because it means my O2 will be out of commission for about 2 days while the work is being done. However, I have plenty of other methods to get my music "fix."
Good to hear you're back in order after your testing ordeal. I'm glad that portion of my life is behind me and I've been in the career field for 25 years now. However, there are still demands - but, they are more manageable.
I've found that Krylon has some excellent colors and I think I have about half of their collection on my shelf at home from various projects. I'm thinking of taking my case and using some oiled antique bronze to use on the main case. I'll then apply a few coats of clear coat to protect the finish better and use 4 small rubber stick-on feet to keep the amp from sliding (and to protect) the finish when used on a desktop or table top.
There's no limit to what can be come up with in regards to ideas. I might search for those 6-32 phillips counter-sunk screws and rethink my current idea of using the other method that I devised.
Either way, it will create some disruption because it means my O2 will be out of commission for about 2 days while the work is being done. However, I have plenty of other methods to get my music "fix."
I’m about half way done as of this morning. If you want I'll give you 4 screws from my extras if you want. As far as kylon goes, I wouldn't waste my time with it. You need to sandblast the case and powder coat it. I just picked up a cheap powder coat gun from craftsman for $29. It works pretty well, and produces quality stuff. It's definitely not for doing high production coating nor large parts but works for the smaller stuff. Comes out clean looking and you just pop it in a spare toaster oven.
Else, Look up the B2-080GD. Newark has it. I’m going to take pictures of the cases right now. Don't judge me for the mess of my house right now though =)
Else, Look up the B2-080GD. Newark has it. I’m going to take pictures of the cases right now. Don't judge me for the mess of my house right now though =)
I'm appreciative of your efforts with the GB, but I don't understand what you are telling us about colors and screws. You have promised pictures - perhaps they would convey the message.
Sorry about the tardiness of these photos. I had to have all 4 of my wisdom teeth ripped out this morning.
I would recommended that any who has not put the case together buy a 6-32 tap. The threads for the screws are not cut and need to be cut correctly. A cheap tap shouldn't cost more than about 1.40 or 2 bucks. Use a light amount of cutting oil or some regular cooking oil. You just need a small amount. The second set of panels is going in the mail tomorrow morning, as I couldn't get them finished last night. Sorry again :/
Green
Red
Blue
I would recommended that any who has not put the case together buy a 6-32 tap. The threads for the screws are not cut and need to be cut correctly. A cheap tap shouldn't cost more than about 1.40 or 2 bucks. Use a light amount of cutting oil or some regular cooking oil. You just need a small amount. The second set of panels is going in the mail tomorrow morning, as I couldn't get them finished last night. Sorry again :/
Green
Red
Blue
Flyn'
Sorry to hear about the ol' wisdom teeth issue. I remember that being done - many, many moons ago.
In an earlier post, you referenced the use of some flat-head phillips screws and using a countersinking bit to taper in the case holes a bit. Do you happen to have a few pictures of that finished look available? No rush by any means as I realize you're also running a shipping operation at the moment and I'd hope that the panels get sent to their respective buyers before we overwhelm you with too many questions.
Hopefully, the docs gave you some good pain meds for the teeth.
Sorry to hear about the ol' wisdom teeth issue. I remember that being done - many, many moons ago.
In an earlier post, you referenced the use of some flat-head phillips screws and using a countersinking bit to taper in the case holes a bit. Do you happen to have a few pictures of that finished look available? No rush by any means as I realize you're also running a shipping operation at the moment and I'd hope that the panels get sent to their respective buyers before we overwhelm you with too many questions.
Hopefully, the docs gave you some good pain meds for the teeth.
i can recommend the guys at fasteners express for well priced stainless, anodised alloy and titanium fasteners in metric or imperial hex, socket head, torx etc. excellent range. i just got a heap from them. they have blue, green, red etc to match or contrast the case colours
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