Odd toroid and odd issue...help...please!!

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Hi Marc,
I wasn't clear, sorry. I understand that you have a normal transformer. Yeah! :cool:

Fix your DC blocker (I like EI cores for that reason). Note that a secondary DC flux will do the same thing.

But, you are off to the races and scored big time! Congrats!

Market your industry secret transformer damper. Can you use a bunt pan?

-Chris
 
AndrewT said:
Hi Mp,
the diodes are in parallel but reversed. Let's call them inverse parallel. NOT back to back.


Ah yes...that's actually how I have them. Poor word choice on my part:xeye:

Whats the best way to detect DC on the mains? My fluke says I have 615mv but I know that's not true....

A bunt pan.... Look honey, what's that over there?....swipe.
 
Hi Mp,
I have not tried it, but I think measuring the DC across the blocking cap will give a true reading.

Measuring AC across the same blocking cap also confirms if the cap is suitably scaled to your power requirement.
The peak AC signal should be less than the diode drop to ensure the diodes never conduct during normal operation.

However the diodes do conduct at start up. See if you can measure the ACpeak across the cap during start up.

I would expect the DC to vary significantly during the day/night and also from second to second as different loads are put on and off line.
 
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anatech said:
Hi Marc,
You know, you may still get somewhere with these. Rectify and filter the incoming AC, copy a Carver PM1.5 power control section.

Give the triac dimmer a try with no load. Measure the output voltage. You may find you have full voltage at 70%. In that case you may have a really cool supply figured out.

Using a Carver variable phase control is wise as they already got the bugs worked out.

-Chris


If it is a 1kW device, it definitely is NOT a Carver transformer! I still can't see why you can't use them in reverse, so to say. A transformer is a transformer. It is 60Hz, 1kW so very probably the inrush current is way too high. Are you on a 60Hz or 50Hz net?

Use a light bulb on the 120 input (in series, of course ;-) ); you should get close to 32V (a little less, maybe 30V) at the "primary".

Edit: skip the above, you already found out, I should have read the whole thread first...


Jan Didden
 
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