Newby DIY speaker project

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'long as we're OT, I once owned a Hillman (minx) that would suddenly, almost without warning, fall over! (the rear axle was located with canvas straps, when they broke---!) Even in those days they blew head gaskets with regularity!
I didn't know Hillman was still making cars.:)
Don
 
In all honesty, I can't think of a single British made automobile, until lately, that was remotely reliable. I once owned an MGB, and the paint started peeling after 10 months. My BSA Hornet never worked right. It nickled and dimed me to death. My classmate once owned an XKE and it had a strange habit of emptying his check book on a semi-monthly basis.


Early british engineering was excellent, however there was a basic flaw between the BP and what left the factory. I was a Triumph spitfire and BSA 650 nut for years and there is still no "feel" like a light weight brit bike in a corner. In acoustics the Lowther (IMO) still is at the top.

ron
 
ronc said:
In all honesty, I can't think of a single British made automobile, until lately, that was remotely reliable. I once owned an MGB, and the paint started peeling after 10 months. My BSA Hornet never worked right. It nickled and dimed me to death. My classmate once owned an XKE and it had a strange habit of emptying his check book on a semi-monthly basis.


Early british engineering was excellent, however there was a basic flaw between the BP and what left the factory. I was a Triumph spitfire and BSA 650 nut for years and there is still no "feel" like a light weight brit bike in a corner. In acoustics the Lowther (IMO) still is at the top.

ron
I owned a number of BSA's, Triumphs, Nortons, a Matchless, and a Royal Enfield. They all sounded great, they all leaked oil, and they all spent more time DOA than not. They were fun, though!
(I'm done hijacking this thread!)
Don
 
James, with the pounds strength againts the dollar there isn't much difference in cost, sound wise its a no brainer, the drivers are matched to closer tolerances than UK etc etc. My cabs need about an hour or two to finish of the baffles, just cant get round to taking the drivers out to do it, and if I'm not using the system, ths missis is (She waits till I go out then puts her CD's on and tanks it up, so much the 18 year old moans to her about the volume:rolleyes: ).
Structuraly the units feal much more substancial than standard stock, refer to Extreme Basket tricks thread, plus the mods to the rear of the frame front give a much larger area of contact for sealing, its all the same level, and consequently less prone to distortion if the fastening are overtightened.
BTW Scarborough is lovely at this time of year (wet, cold, and no tourists:) .

I know I keep going on about how wonderful the drivers and the CC's sound, but as I have said before every time I start to listen they still amaze me, I have never had this before with a speaker set up, some days I dont turn them on so I can get somthing done, its hard to use them for background music cos you (well I)
keep going back to sit in front of them and listening (then I get missis ache, are you going to do/finish/start/paint/etc this or just listen to music all day:whip: )
 
Thanks Marc.

P10- would the CCs w/207 be a good match to the RH84?

OT:
Hillman are not making cars anymore. The rights are, IIRC, owned by Peugeot now.

Brit cars had, IMHO, brilliant designs, but were very badly built. These days the owner's clubs of these classics have sorted out most of the reliability issues- a better radiator seriously helps the Imp, for example. Mine is fairly relaible, but it had had a lot of attention over the last few years.
 
Thanks for all the input here. I still can't decide...there's so much to read and learn!

I've narrowed it down to a few that I could make with my building skills - Metronome wi Hemp FR8, Half Chang and Buschhorn Mark II .

What I'll probably do is just bite the bullet and pick one. You can cut bait all day, but eventually you gotta fish.



(BTW - If I ever want to own a British car, I enquire here first! And FWIW, my uncle use to race vintage cars until about 10 yrs ago - his favourite was his Lotus 6. Now they have Van Diemen RF03s in the Ontario Formula Ford Challenge series - yawn, vintage cars are cooler. I drive a minty 1991 Volvo 240 - I like my cars slow, safe and square, just like me...)
 
So now I am examining the Mikasa 1v0.1Nagoka-style stepped-horn at Planet10 (terrific site) and comparing it to it's 2 bigger siblings, Hiro and Sachiko (I'm still thinking about Half Chang and Metronome but Mikasa looks very interesting!) . I understand that the diff between Hiro and Sach is that Hiro has an internal wide of 9" - Sach is 11 3/4 - so the plans for Hiro are based on Sachiko.

Looking at the plans for Sachiko in note 2, it has 2 internal braces horizontally behind the magnet - Half Chang has one brace.

BUT going back to Mikasa, she has no such brace - is this because Mikasa uses a 4.5 driver but the others have 6.5 and 8" units? So a smaller driver doesn't need such a brace against it's magnet?

Also, I've had trouble finding finished examples of Mikasa on the 'net - any pics someone knows about? Thanks again!
 
Also, on the Mikasa plans it says "CC is defined by the lengths of
the 8 panels forming the front steps. There is room to create a
very irregular CC."

What does that mean? Does it mean I should experiment with the size of front steps before final assembly, say increaseing there distance from the front by 2 or 3 inches each and so, increasing the total number and height of the steps?

Again, thanks.
 
frugal-phile™
Joined 2001
Paid Member
Where the ends of the pieces that form the air cavity* you can see that varying where they stop can be varied to form all sorts of shapes. The drawings and render show one possible scenerio.

*(i am going back to Olson's term, to avoid confusion, CC can have 2 meanings now, and in the strictest sense its use for this air cavity, althou widely used, is incorrect & therefore confusing)

As in many of the drawings the driver brace is left undrawn for simplicity. I would lengthen parts of the initial horn throat pieces to form a driver brace as shown on some of the other spawns

dave
 

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I promise I'll stop asking questions and go away soon, build something then report on it next year. Til then,...

I understand that Sachiko, Hiro and Saburo all have the same folding plan, just different widths (and Saburo is a little shorter)...

So does that mean I could make Mikasa (FE126) into something for a FE166 by increasing the internal width to 9" and overall height to 72"?

Similarily for making Mikasa into something for a FE206 by increasing internal width to 11 3/4" and overall height to 72"?

Thanks again...
 
Scottmoose said:
Note too that there is also Saburo for the 126 -same folding scheme to Sachiko and Hiro, narrower, and very slightly shorter. Here's a finished pair for interest's sake:


Godzilla said:
The Saburo for the 126 looks really nice. I wonder if the best way to utilize double horns is by tuning the top and bottom to diff frequencies. Would not want to build a pair tho.


Scott, from the picture it looks like the lower mouth area is shorter than the upper (I guess to take advantage of reflected floor coupling?)
Do plans exist for this somewhere? Not that after Aiko I'm likely to build another pair of double mouth horns anytime soon - it's not so much the size & weight that's the huge PITA (until you need to move them) as the glue-up time.

BTW, Brynn sounds pretty good, with all 3 Fostex drivers so far (FE126 / FE127/ FF125K) - need to arrange a listening session to validate some impressions re extra series R, etc.
 
Chr3is said:
I understand that Sachiko, Hiro and Saburo all have the same folding plan, just different widths (and Saburo is a little shorter)...

So does that mean I could make Mikasa (FE126) into something for a FE166 by increasing the internal width to 9" and overall height to 72"?

No, you'd screw up the expansion rate. Saburo needed changing to get the target flare.
 
chrisb said:
Scott, from the picture it looks like the lower mouth area is shorter than the upper (I guess to take advantage of reflected floor coupling?)
Do plans exist for this somewhere? Not that after Aiko I'm likely to build another pair of double mouth horns anytime soon - it's not so much the size & weight that's the huge PITA (until you need to move them) as the glue-up time.

BTW, Brynn sounds pretty good, with all 3 Fostex drivers so far (FE126 / FE127/ FF125K) - need to arrange a listening session to validate some impressions re extra series R, etc.

Nah, it's symmetrical. Does look like it from that shot though doesn't it -I hadn't noticed that before. I haven't properly looked into differential tuning yet -current thing is focused radiation / curved fronts. I'll look at different horns next on.

Yeah, the weight / complexity is the downside. I think the sonic benefits are worth the effort for forward-firing boxes though. I don't think Dave's drawn up the plans for Saburo yet.

Glad Brynn's working decently -out of interest, which driver has worked best so far?
 
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