Listen I appreciate the help but come on you are basically saying I'm lying that when I layed it out like that I was going to really plug it in?
Its a hobby, you gotta relax a bit. Sure it can be dangerous but I spend my summers racing so its not like I don't have an understanding what I am getting myself into danger wise, this is a walk in the park compared to doing 140(mph not kph) with a brick wall in front of you hoping you torqued the brakes right
That was a mock up, it was held together with ZIP TIES for petes sake. Carlos already told me which end was proper on the IEC and I can read.
Seriously...I'm a big boy and understand the danger involved with working with electricity.
Either way I cleared off the desk, soldered it up, reconfirmed everything a few times,, taped the wires down in a circle so nothing was even close to touching and used a power strip as the main on/off switch.
It worked! I shut it off and thats that. No point in continuing until it is in a box.
Now I need to cut the glass and work on the box.
I really do appreciate everyones help but really...relax a bit...you guys making it sound like I'm splitting the atom with a kit I bought at Radio Shack.
It worked and I'm pleased so far. I won't get the box done until Sunday probably. Tomorrow I'm routering the end caps for my sonotube, don't worry I won't use the router without adult supervision in the emergency room lobby
Its a hobby, you gotta relax a bit. Sure it can be dangerous but I spend my summers racing so its not like I don't have an understanding what I am getting myself into danger wise, this is a walk in the park compared to doing 140(mph not kph) with a brick wall in front of you hoping you torqued the brakes right
That was a mock up, it was held together with ZIP TIES for petes sake. Carlos already told me which end was proper on the IEC and I can read.
Seriously...I'm a big boy and understand the danger involved with working with electricity.
Either way I cleared off the desk, soldered it up, reconfirmed everything a few times,, taped the wires down in a circle so nothing was even close to touching and used a power strip as the main on/off switch.
It worked! I shut it off and thats that. No point in continuing until it is in a box.
Now I need to cut the glass and work on the box.
I really do appreciate everyones help but really...relax a bit...you guys making it sound like I'm splitting the atom with a kit I bought at Radio Shack.
It worked and I'm pleased so far. I won't get the box done until Sunday probably. Tomorrow I'm routering the end caps for my sonotube, don't worry I won't use the router without adult supervision in the emergency room lobby
Thanks...I think...
Well that didn't take long...already have my next question. I have four days of vacation left and want to get this done.
I've seen in aluminum cases people put metal dividers between the PS/Transformer and each amp board.
Is there any better/worse layout for interference or does it not matter.
Will either one of these layouts be better/worse or will neither one work and I need to take a new direction. If that is so what should I avoid?
The connections will be behind where the transformer is. As of right now there will be no volume switch or anything else besides, power, LED, switch, and the connections for the inputs and speakers.
Thanks
Well that didn't take long...already have my next question. I have four days of vacation left and want to get this done.
I've seen in aluminum cases people put metal dividers between the PS/Transformer and each amp board.
Is there any better/worse layout for interference or does it not matter.
Will either one of these layouts be better/worse or will neither one work and I need to take a new direction. If that is so what should I avoid?
The connections will be behind where the transformer is. As of right now there will be no volume switch or anything else besides, power, LED, switch, and the connections for the inputs and speakers.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thanks
I'm very relaxed Eric
Good luck with the amp, I'm sure you will love it.
I thought before I posted and decided that WRT safety its worth repeating some warnings because:
1. others, less cautious than yourself, might be reading this thread in the future and may look at your pitctures and not read the thread thoroughly, perhaps they would notice "one" of the numerous warnings.
2. countries using 240VAC tend to be very cautious about safety (rightly or wrongly).
3. duty of care, if I see something about that "just might" be dangerous, I have a responsibility to mention it.
4. I'm getting old, and that's just what we do, "Listen young boy, blah, blah.......", you know.
regards
Good luck with the amp, I'm sure you will love it.
I thought before I posted and decided that WRT safety its worth repeating some warnings because:
1. others, less cautious than yourself, might be reading this thread in the future and may look at your pitctures and not read the thread thoroughly, perhaps they would notice "one" of the numerous warnings.
2. countries using 240VAC tend to be very cautious about safety (rightly or wrongly).
3. duty of care, if I see something about that "just might" be dangerous, I have a responsibility to mention it.
4. I'm getting old, and that's just what we do, "Listen young boy, blah, blah.......", you know.
regards
Greg no problem.
Maybe its just the way things come across here.
Warnings are one thing but the assumption that I'm lying in my posts and other little snippets I could do without.
Language might also be part of the problem. Even though the site is all English we all probably have our own way of saying things.
This has been a very informative project for me, and so has the board but it does seem to have a bit of snippiness to it which is evident by the whole Sin Bin/Texas thing.
I just work under the idea of inherent risk and personal responsibility. On some of the racing/car stuff we work on there is a lot of information that is passed back and forth that can cause someone to be seriously injured or have a huge monetary investment lost.
If I would have plugged it in and it went POP then it was my fault, no one elses. I didn't NEED to turn it on, I chose to. I took a calculated risk and came out on the good end.
We all do that every day in everything we do.
Its well established the information we share on the racing sites is our personal experience, some of professional, some of it not but in the end if the wheels fall off your car, in the end, its your responsibility, not someone else's. We try to help each other, your provided the information but in the end its up to you what you do with it.
We're all adults and the era of its always someone else's fault is upon us.
I appreciate peoples concerns but they did seem a bit over the top at times. Thats a pretty bold statement saying I'm going to end up killing someone based on a single thread on the internet when the person making the comment has never even met me.
Thanks again for your input although it may not apply to me here any information always comes in handy elsewhere.
Maybe its just the way things come across here.
Warnings are one thing but the assumption that I'm lying in my posts and other little snippets I could do without.
Language might also be part of the problem. Even though the site is all English we all probably have our own way of saying things.
This has been a very informative project for me, and so has the board but it does seem to have a bit of snippiness to it which is evident by the whole Sin Bin/Texas thing.
I just work under the idea of inherent risk and personal responsibility. On some of the racing/car stuff we work on there is a lot of information that is passed back and forth that can cause someone to be seriously injured or have a huge monetary investment lost.
If I would have plugged it in and it went POP then it was my fault, no one elses. I didn't NEED to turn it on, I chose to. I took a calculated risk and came out on the good end.
We all do that every day in everything we do.
Its well established the information we share on the racing sites is our personal experience, some of professional, some of it not but in the end if the wheels fall off your car, in the end, its your responsibility, not someone else's. We try to help each other, your provided the information but in the end its up to you what you do with it.
We're all adults and the era of its always someone else's fault is upon us.
I appreciate peoples concerns but they did seem a bit over the top at times. Thats a pretty bold statement saying I'm going to end up killing someone based on a single thread on the internet when the person making the comment has never even met me.
Thanks again for your input although it may not apply to me here any information always comes in handy elsewhere.
Hi Eric,
I have not read pages 4 & 5 yet but
You do not understand the safety implications in using/modifying/building mains powered equipment.
The issues are all jumbled up at the moment.
We cannot see what's in your head.
We are trying to instruct by remote control. It is not easy.
We could think you have it sorted but one simple misunderstanding between us and someone in your household could be at risk.
It is MUCH SAFER to have someone with appropriate experience/training standing by to ensure your safety. A simple mistake/misunderstanding can usually be spotted instantly and avoid calamity. Once the mains input is sorted then things become much safer, for you, it's the amp that is at risk.
Get local help.
I have not read pages 4 & 5 yet but
because we can explain things till WE are sure it is right.
You do not understand the safety implications in using/modifying/building mains powered equipment.
The issues are all jumbled up at the moment.
We cannot see what's in your head.
We are trying to instruct by remote control. It is not easy.
We could think you have it sorted but one simple misunderstanding between us and someone in your household could be at risk.
It is MUCH SAFER to have someone with appropriate experience/training standing by to ensure your safety. A simple mistake/misunderstanding can usually be spotted instantly and avoid calamity. Once the mains input is sorted then things become much safer, for you, it's the amp that is at risk.
Get local help.
Andrew,
As posted, its working.
Just need to know what kind of interference problems I might be looking at with the configuration I showed above.
I appreciate your concern, but trust me, I am not going to kill myself putting this together. In the end anything poses risk. The transformer could have been wired wrong from the factory and all the help in the world would not have helped. You subject yourself to risk and all you can do is minimize your exposure to it.
When I started it up I did so a few feet away, nothing around it, and the wires weighted around so nothing was touching. I used a power strip and a long cord. I even got the fire extinguisher from my car and brought it in the house.
All that could have happened is the amp/board went POOF or the wires caught fire, not the first time I've dealt with a fire in a close situation. I've had fires start in cars while driving which is far more involved than standing there in front of something with fire bottle in hand. If I thought it posed that much of a risk I would have done it in the garage.
The LED came on, I left it for a moment to watch for signs of heat/smoke. I shut it off from the powerstrip, unplugged it, gave it a minute to discharge and checked for heat/burning on the unit.
So if we could just move on. The information I was given was helpful. It did not tell me everything I needed to know but I now understand some things which will help me fill in the holes as I read more about it.
Thanks
As posted, its working.
Just need to know what kind of interference problems I might be looking at with the configuration I showed above.
I appreciate your concern, but trust me, I am not going to kill myself putting this together. In the end anything poses risk. The transformer could have been wired wrong from the factory and all the help in the world would not have helped. You subject yourself to risk and all you can do is minimize your exposure to it.
When I started it up I did so a few feet away, nothing around it, and the wires weighted around so nothing was touching. I used a power strip and a long cord. I even got the fire extinguisher from my car and brought it in the house.
All that could have happened is the amp/board went POOF or the wires caught fire, not the first time I've dealt with a fire in a close situation. I've had fires start in cars while driving which is far more involved than standing there in front of something with fire bottle in hand. If I thought it posed that much of a risk I would have done it in the garage.
The LED came on, I left it for a moment to watch for signs of heat/smoke. I shut it off from the powerstrip, unplugged it, gave it a minute to discharge and checked for heat/burning on the unit.
So if we could just move on. The information I was given was helpful. It did not tell me everything I needed to know but I now understand some things which will help me fill in the holes as I read more about it.
Thanks
Hi Eric,
you survived.
You could have done it safer!
Use a mains light bulb in the live feed.
If there is anything wrong with the wiring or in the manufacture then the bulb limits the power available to prevent explosions.
However the bulb does not prevent live parts being an electrocution risk.
It is the electrocution risk that I feared on your behalf.
Now that you are past that point, go and assemble the light bulb and use it every time you want to switch on a project whether it is a minor modification or rebuild or brand new. It will save you a lot in damaged components and could save your eyesight if a cap exploded.
BTW,
I have been dabbling in DIY electronics for over 30years and I only found out about this light bulb from this Forum last year. I always use it now.
Do you still need an explantion for the need and where to connect the safety earth?
you survived.
You could have done it safer!
Use a mains light bulb in the live feed.
If there is anything wrong with the wiring or in the manufacture then the bulb limits the power available to prevent explosions.
However the bulb does not prevent live parts being an electrocution risk.
It is the electrocution risk that I feared on your behalf.
Now that you are past that point, go and assemble the light bulb and use it every time you want to switch on a project whether it is a minor modification or rebuild or brand new. It will save you a lot in damaged components and could save your eyesight if a cap exploded.
BTW,
I have been dabbling in DIY electronics for over 30years and I only found out about this light bulb from this Forum last year. I always use it now.
Do you still need an explantion for the need and where to connect the safety earth?
Andrew,
Actually I did take your suggestion. I went upto the hardware store in between my postings here yesterday to pick up some different gauge wire and I did buy a temporary light bulb socket. All that means is it was a lightbulb socket that has 2 leads on it.
I did not use it because by the time we got home I had forgotten but I did put a bulb in it this morning and left it on my workbench as a reminder.
I need answers to seven questions as of right now.
1. Yes where can I put a ground. The case I am using will be wooden, glass, and plastic. The side frame will be all wood. My wife picked up a nice decorative display box last night from the craft store. The top is glass and the bottom is that cardboard stuff that backs most picture frames. I cut a piece of wood to fit in place of the cardboard. I covered it with a very light black felt. I am going to cut out a piece in the back and replace it with a piece of hard ABS plastic that I'll use to mount the power receptacle, inputs, circuit breaker, and power switch. The outs to the speaker will be drilled right through the wood. There will be no other metal. All of our homes have central grounds with 3 prong plugs, they go back to a main ground which unfortunately from what I understand is our well pump. I believe someone else said earth grounds give feedback. Anything else you can suggest, along with exactly where they are run would be appreciated. The boards will be approx .5 inches from felt, is that not a problem for heat with the felt is it?
2. Will the placement of the items in the arrangement in the pictures above cause me any problems? Are either one of the amp boards too close to the transformer? Will there be interference? Is that case just too small and I should look at a different approach? The transformer came with a mounting piece but it also looked like from the instuctions it was part of a ground. Should I be concerned about the placement of the inputs/outputs in relation to the power receptacle or the transformer?
3. Is anodized aluminum OK for a heatsink or does it need to be bare? My plan was to put 2 bars of black anodized aluminum along the sides of the case and put the amp boards against that. The case is black and we wanted it to be inconspicuous. Is the anodizing going to cause a lack of heat transfer and should I be concerned about that? I believe the chip has its own heat cut off so maybe I'll just monitor it that way. I can use just regular old heat paste from a computer or should I use heat tape?
4. I wanted to put a front mount LED on the chassis. Can I just run the leads to the current LED? Can I leave both on or do I need to remove the LED on the PS and just use the outside one or will that depend on the voltage of the LED I bought?
5. To keep things clean I like to run tiestraps, is there any audio problem with tying the matching wires together? Like the lines from the transformer to the PS, etc. Do these wires get very hot? What I'd really like to do is run them under the felt so they are totally hidden. I can flip the transformer upside down and feed the wires below the felt and have them come up from the bottom instead of the top on the boards so all you see is the parts but no wiring.
6. Our very short term plan for testing this is to use an iPod. I have on order a line out for the iPod that won't show for at least a week. Is it a bad idea to use the headphone jack? I'm not sure what the wattage is coming out of there and I could not find it on the web. I am not even sure if this line out I am buying allows for internal volume control or I'll need to add one to the amp. My assumption is that without a volume control the amp will be at full power all the time and is reliant on the input signal for level?
7. Now that its built and I used this transformer:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=122-640&CFID=7508580&CFTOKEN=39697811
What kind of output can I expect from it as far as watts per channel? The speakers I will use as a test are only 85db efficient and can take 100 watts. Its these:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-640
I know this amp will not be enough to drive those very well based on the numbers. Once I'm confident everything is done and working correctly I'll try them on my big speakers which are 92db but its a LOT of work for me to get back there so I want to make sure its right.
Eventually they will be hooked upto these:
http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=13969
If you happen to read through that the designer is a bit...eccentric I guess you could say
I could not find any efficiency readings but they will go in our bedroom with a very small sub(8-10") for more easy listening. If I can get good quality sound at about 70-75db out of those speakers and that amp I'll be happy.
Off to the store to get some more stuff!
Thanks
Actually I did take your suggestion. I went upto the hardware store in between my postings here yesterday to pick up some different gauge wire and I did buy a temporary light bulb socket. All that means is it was a lightbulb socket that has 2 leads on it.
I did not use it because by the time we got home I had forgotten but I did put a bulb in it this morning and left it on my workbench as a reminder.
I need answers to seven questions as of right now.
1. Yes where can I put a ground. The case I am using will be wooden, glass, and plastic. The side frame will be all wood. My wife picked up a nice decorative display box last night from the craft store. The top is glass and the bottom is that cardboard stuff that backs most picture frames. I cut a piece of wood to fit in place of the cardboard. I covered it with a very light black felt. I am going to cut out a piece in the back and replace it with a piece of hard ABS plastic that I'll use to mount the power receptacle, inputs, circuit breaker, and power switch. The outs to the speaker will be drilled right through the wood. There will be no other metal. All of our homes have central grounds with 3 prong plugs, they go back to a main ground which unfortunately from what I understand is our well pump. I believe someone else said earth grounds give feedback. Anything else you can suggest, along with exactly where they are run would be appreciated. The boards will be approx .5 inches from felt, is that not a problem for heat with the felt is it?
2. Will the placement of the items in the arrangement in the pictures above cause me any problems? Are either one of the amp boards too close to the transformer? Will there be interference? Is that case just too small and I should look at a different approach? The transformer came with a mounting piece but it also looked like from the instuctions it was part of a ground. Should I be concerned about the placement of the inputs/outputs in relation to the power receptacle or the transformer?
3. Is anodized aluminum OK for a heatsink or does it need to be bare? My plan was to put 2 bars of black anodized aluminum along the sides of the case and put the amp boards against that. The case is black and we wanted it to be inconspicuous. Is the anodizing going to cause a lack of heat transfer and should I be concerned about that? I believe the chip has its own heat cut off so maybe I'll just monitor it that way. I can use just regular old heat paste from a computer or should I use heat tape?
4. I wanted to put a front mount LED on the chassis. Can I just run the leads to the current LED? Can I leave both on or do I need to remove the LED on the PS and just use the outside one or will that depend on the voltage of the LED I bought?
5. To keep things clean I like to run tiestraps, is there any audio problem with tying the matching wires together? Like the lines from the transformer to the PS, etc. Do these wires get very hot? What I'd really like to do is run them under the felt so they are totally hidden. I can flip the transformer upside down and feed the wires below the felt and have them come up from the bottom instead of the top on the boards so all you see is the parts but no wiring.
6. Our very short term plan for testing this is to use an iPod. I have on order a line out for the iPod that won't show for at least a week. Is it a bad idea to use the headphone jack? I'm not sure what the wattage is coming out of there and I could not find it on the web. I am not even sure if this line out I am buying allows for internal volume control or I'll need to add one to the amp. My assumption is that without a volume control the amp will be at full power all the time and is reliant on the input signal for level?
7. Now that its built and I used this transformer:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=122-640&CFID=7508580&CFTOKEN=39697811
What kind of output can I expect from it as far as watts per channel? The speakers I will use as a test are only 85db efficient and can take 100 watts. Its these:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-640
I know this amp will not be enough to drive those very well based on the numbers. Once I'm confident everything is done and working correctly I'll try them on my big speakers which are 92db but its a LOT of work for me to get back there so I want to make sure its right.
Eventually they will be hooked upto these:
http://www.htguide.com/forum/showthread.php4?t=13969
If you happen to read through that the designer is a bit...eccentric I guess you could say
I could not find any efficiency readings but they will go in our bedroom with a very small sub(8-10") for more easy listening. If I can get good quality sound at about 70-75db out of those speakers and that amp I'll be happy.
Off to the store to get some more stuff!
Thanks
Hi Eric,
Anything conductive will need to have a safety earth. That includes RCA sockets and speaker terminals to protect you if you are holding the other end.
The audio ground connects all the internal components together. Add a disconnecting network to a tagboard (or similar) and run a wire between the tagboard and audio ground. Run from the other side of the tagboard to the safety earth connection. It too can float on a tag board (or even the same tag board if you locate beside the incoming mains cable).
The wires connecting safety earth through the disconecting network to the audio ground have to conduct fault current until the fuse blows. so make them robust enough to survive a few milliseconds at a few kiloAmps. Usually the same size as the cable earth wire will be sufficient.
now just get a plug top and socket outlet to complete this test item.Eric_B_C said:
all this non-metallic will insulate the electronics from the cooling air. How do you plan to let the heat out?
Anything conductive will need to have a safety earth. That includes RCA sockets and speaker terminals to protect you if you are holding the other end.
The audio ground connects all the internal components together. Add a disconnecting network to a tagboard (or similar) and run a wire between the tagboard and audio ground. Run from the other side of the tagboard to the safety earth connection. It too can float on a tag board (or even the same tag board if you locate beside the incoming mains cable).
The wires connecting safety earth through the disconecting network to the audio ground have to conduct fault current until the fuse blows. so make them robust enough to survive a few milliseconds at a few kiloAmps. Usually the same size as the cable earth wire will be sufficient.
inputs and input cabling should be kept away from high current wiring. The higher the Zin the worse the problem becomes. Shielded cable is resistant to interfernce but the ends are susceptable.
Aluminium oxide (anodise) is an excellent conductor of heat. Anodise is usually very thin and this helps your cause. fill the air space between the hot devices and their sinks with heat conducting paste (squeeze out all excess to try to achieve metal to metal contact and no air in the imperfections). Does the amp board need to be electrically isolated from the sink? If so then you must insert an electrical isolator that conducts heat. you choose to fit your budget.
Most LEDs run between 1.6V and 4V. you must insert a current limiting device, usually a resistor to allow the LED to work correctly. Long lead to a power supply are not a problem, but long leads from an audio circuit will need evaluation.
The cables inside the amp should run cool but in any case only a few degrees above ambient. Your insulation will make them run hotter but I do not foresee a problem if sizes are kept adequate.
A few mW from an iPOD will easily pass through a small jack plug they come in lots of variations.
I use max output =VA/1.5 so your 330VA could support 100W+100W stereo.
100W is loads for most domestic situations. Your chipamps should give you 50W to 60W into 8r. and your transformer is probably big enough to support 4 to 6 channels at those chipamp power levels IF you build a separate PSU for each chipamp channel.
Hi,
You can try e-bay searching for "chassis" or "enclosure under the Business & Industrial Category.
I did so two days ago and found a company called "Antek" that supplies both metal chassis and transformers. Bought a 20V+20V 400VA tranny and a 12X12X4 amplifier metal chassis for less than $150.00 bucks including shipping to Puerto Rico where I live.
You can try e-bay searching for "chassis" or "enclosure under the Business & Industrial Category.
I did so two days ago and found a company called "Antek" that supplies both metal chassis and transformers. Bought a 20V+20V 400VA tranny and a 12X12X4 amplifier metal chassis for less than $150.00 bucks including shipping to Puerto Rico where I live.
Eric_B_C said:
Andrew,
Thanks again...but what is a tag board? I tried searching on the internet but unfortunately its also the name of a web forum software like the one that is being used here so it was not much help.
On the transformer and high current wiring, if I were to flip the transformer 180 degee's so that the wiring out of the transformer was on the opposite side of where the connections were, is that sufficient?
The chipamp I bought has a resistor for the current LED. Can I just piggy back off the connections on that LED and run one on the PS and one for the front of the case?
Thanks
Thanks again...but what is a tag board? I tried searching on the internet but unfortunately its also the name of a web forum software like the one that is being used here so it was not much help.
On the transformer and high current wiring, if I were to flip the transformer 180 degee's so that the wiring out of the transformer was on the opposite side of where the connections were, is that sufficient?
The chipamp I bought has a resistor for the current LED. Can I just piggy back off the connections on that LED and run one on the PS and one for the front of the case?
Thanks
Hi,
treat the LED and resistor as a paired unit.
You can run extra paired units in parallel. Each resistor will current limit it's own LED.
Change the voltage and all you do is scale the resistor.
Is this monitoring the PSU?
Then what about a pair of LEDs, one each for +ve and -ve?
If you add a zener to replace PART of the resistor you can get the LED to turn off early to give a visual indication of a low rail voltage.
treat the LED and resistor as a paired unit.
You can run extra paired units in parallel. Each resistor will current limit it's own LED.
Change the voltage and all you do is scale the resistor.
Is this monitoring the PSU?
Then what about a pair of LEDs, one each for +ve and -ve?
If you add a zener to replace PART of the resistor you can get the LED to turn off early to give a visual indication of a low rail voltage.
Originally posted by AndrewT
I did NOT say solder!!!!!
I said best to weld the safety connection to chassis...The reason for NOT soldering is just in case the solder melts during the failure mode...
AndrewT
I don't know what you have against soldering. I have a number of amplifier chassis in my garage that do depend on soldered connections to ground. They were built in the 40's and 50's and it seems were passed by UL at the time.
Now the diy audio board may have passed laws requiring bolting and or welding of grounds to chassis. I don't know for sure but if they have then I guess the "GODS" have spoken and this will supersede anything the ancestors have done.
Typically the melting point of solder seems to be in the 360-370 degree range for good 60/40 solder.
I did NOT say solder!!!!!
I said best to weld the safety connection to chassis...The reason for NOT soldering is just in case the solder melts during the failure mode...
AndrewT
I don't know what you have against soldering. I have a number of amplifier chassis in my garage that do depend on soldered connections to ground. They were built in the 40's and 50's and it seems were passed by UL at the time.
Now the diy audio board may have passed laws requiring bolting and or welding of grounds to chassis. I don't know for sure but if they have then I guess the "GODS" have spoken and this will supersede anything the ancestors have done.
Typically the melting point of solder seems to be in the 360-370 degree range for good 60/40 solder.
I tried to solder the green wire to the aluminum case but is was impossible...too much heat dissipation I guess...neither the wire nor the chassis ever got hot enough. I wound up tinning the green wire end and using a very simple but nifty green grounding clip sold at the Home Depot or electrical supply houses.
Check it out...
http://www.hubbell-canada.com/wiring/raco_bell/pdf/a57.pdf
Check it out...
http://www.hubbell-canada.com/wiring/raco_bell/pdf/a57.pdf
Hi Carlos,
you will find it impossible to solder to aluminium.
There is a high temperature process using appropriate alloy wire and flux to attach al to al that is well below welding temperatures but I don't think you can attach any other metal or metal alloy to aluminium alloy.
A spot weld may be able to attach copper to aluminium, but that is beyond my knowledge. I fear the difference in melting temperatures may prevent an effective weld.
You can spot weld copper to steel.
For the DIYer a bolted connection is about as permanent as we can get.
you will find it impossible to solder to aluminium.
There is a high temperature process using appropriate alloy wire and flux to attach al to al that is well below welding temperatures but I don't think you can attach any other metal or metal alloy to aluminium alloy.
A spot weld may be able to attach copper to aluminium, but that is beyond my knowledge. I fear the difference in melting temperatures may prevent an effective weld.
You can spot weld copper to steel.
For the DIYer a bolted connection is about as permanent as we can get.
Another newbie
Hey Eric B.
I tried to email but canot send anything until I post something. Anyway I am also in Michigan, automotive and newbie audio guy. I am interested in your final results and maybe some pointers.
First question, did you try to get required parts at RS or was ordering from Parts Express easier?
Regards,
Pathmark
Hey Eric B.
I tried to email but canot send anything until I post something. Anyway I am also in Michigan, automotive and newbie audio guy. I am interested in your final results and maybe some pointers.
First question, did you try to get required parts at RS or was ordering from Parts Express easier?
Regards,
Pathmark
Sorry back to work this week and wasn't around to respond.
I picked up all the parts from PE. I bought a few misc things at RS but mostly at PE. You cannot get everything from RS.
Of course by RS I assume you mean Radio Shack but if you mean RS Electronics on the 96 Service Drive probably would have most of it. They were closed during the holiday so I just ordered from PE.
I'll see if I can send you my email address on here.
Parts for the box are in the garage and tommorow I'll be working on it.
Pics to come!
I picked up all the parts from PE. I bought a few misc things at RS but mostly at PE. You cannot get everything from RS.
Of course by RS I assume you mean Radio Shack but if you mean RS Electronics on the 96 Service Drive probably would have most of it. They were closed during the holiday so I just ordered from PE.
I'll see if I can send you my email address on here.
Parts for the box are in the garage and tommorow I'll be working on it.
Pics to come!
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